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  #31  
Old 03-25-2009, 02:47 AM
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Further SLS rear suspensino system questsion

This is from a previous post about the SLS system

To answer the question, the springs are meant to carry the load (support the vehicle weight) with the engine and leveling system off. If the car sags when cold the springs need to be replaced. The leveling system is meant to "augment" the springs under load. If you need (or want) a little more beefy suspension, or if you go to normal shocks you will want to use (HD) springs for a 300SD as they are a bit more heavy duty.

Is this true? Can the springs be adjusted by adjusting the height of the torsion bar if the top coils are visibly compressed?

All these questions! i love it.

-philip


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  #32  
Old 03-25-2009, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warmblood58 View Post
Just took my valve apart, it was wet and am awaiting the o-ring kit. I noticed that one of the brass fittings that attach to the valve body has a copper washer (small thread fitting) while the larger thread fitting did not have a copper sealing washer but appears to have a taper where the fitting meets the valve body. Anyone know if this requires a copper washer too? A schematic of this valve would be really helpful showing all parts for the SLS valve. Does anyone have one? Thanks!
If the thread part of the fitting is tapered then you don't need a crush washer.
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  #33  
Old 03-25-2009, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipDiesel View Post
This is from a previous post about the SLS system

To answer the question, the springs are meant to carry the load (support the vehicle weight) with the engine and leveling system off. If the car sags when cold the springs need to be replaced. The leveling system is meant to "augment" the springs under load. If you need (or want) a little more beefy suspension, or if you go to normal shocks you will want to use (HD) springs for a 300SD as they are a bit more heavy duty.

Is this true? Can the springs be adjusted by adjusting the height of the torsion bar if the top coils are visibly compressed?

All these questions! i love it.

-philip
The springs maintain the unloaded ride height. If your rear is low when unloaded and not settling over night and the SLS system is in working order and properly adjusted then your springs are probably tired. You can adjust the SLS system to lift the rear to proper hide height but you are going to have you SLS working overtime. It will always be holding the car up.
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  #34  
Old 05-10-2010, 12:40 PM
npk npk is offline
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Larger ball bearing

After I dismantle the valve, there is a larger ball bearing that fell out from the valve.....where is this ball bearing suppose to be seated?

Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

NPK
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  #35  
Old 05-10-2010, 12:57 PM
npk npk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by npk View Post
After I dismantle the valve, there is a larger ball bearing that fell out from the valve.....where is this ball bearing suppose to be seated?

Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

NPK
Found it "drop the larger ball bearing into the passage in the valve body behind the piston letting it fall toward the center of the valve (not pictured)," Thanks.....
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  #36  
Old 09-09-2012, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida View Post
I'm not sure how to elaborate any more than I have.

I stress the point mostly for owners of wagons that sag badly (> 5 cm). Rebuilding the valve as I've described will completely alleviate the symptom, but it does not really fix the whole problem.

I cannot prove the assertion, but I'm convinced that the SLS should carry near zero weight in the unloaded car (maybe the difference between an emtpy vs full tank of fuel, ~ 100-125 lbs). The only true test I can think of is to release all the pressure from the SLS (open the bleeder) on an unloaded car with a new set of rear coil springs. I haven't done that yet, but here is the data I do have.

On my 84, the 23 year old springs allow the rear to sag about 4 cm. (It was about 7 cm originally because of the PO's overzealous height adjustment.)

On my 85, the sag is less than 2 cm.

Both cars have 170K on them. The 84 was a registered school bus (yes, I call it the "short bus"), so it was always carried the extra weight of passengers. The 84 will be getting new springs, the 85 will be getting sold.
Mercedes FSM makes it very clear: the unladen weight of the W123 wagon with SLS rear end the rear weight is carried by BOTH the springs and the baseline pressure fed to the spring strut by the level control valve. This engages the shock absorbing effect of the system all the time. If your wagon rear is sagging under normal unladen conditions then replacing springs (or maybe shims only, they say springs) is THE solution. The SLS is designed to respond to loads to bring it back to level if it sags low due to weight in the rear.

this information is directly from MB FSM 32-501.
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  #37  
Old 08-17-2013, 04:05 PM
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Fantastic write up...I may be doing this.

Question though: I just bought an 83 300TD with 199,xxx miles on it, and the oil in the SLS tank is as black as coal, really it looks like crankcase oil. Any ideas on why this would be? Just never been changed? Cross contaminated with crankcase oil somehow? Serviced with the wrong oil? The mysteries of a previously enjoyed car.
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  #38  
Old 08-17-2013, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel View Post
Question though: I just bought an 83 300TD with 199,xxx miles on it, and the oil in the SLS tank is as black as coal, really it looks like crankcase oil. Any ideas on why this would be? Just never been changed? Cross contaminated with crankcase oil somehow? Serviced with the wrong oil? The mysteries of a previously enjoyed car.
yes, when the pump o-rings wear out, engine oil soot does contaminate the sls system. also, as the rubber hose begins failing, it'll contaminate the oil. it's pretty simple to drain, and flush most of the fluid out, but I'd change the pressure and return hoses first.
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  #39  
Old 08-17-2013, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
yes, when the pump o-rings wear out, engine oil soot does contaminate the sls system. also, as the rubber hose begins failing, it'll contaminate the oil. it's pretty simple to drain, and flush most of the fluid out, but I'd change the pressure and return hoses first.

So, should I replace the o rings in the pump? Is that even possible?
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  #40  
Old 09-20-2014, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket99 View Post
Mercedes FSM makes it very clear: the unladen weight of the W123 wagon with SLS rear end the rear weight is carried by BOTH the springs and the baseline pressure fed to the spring strut by the level control valve. This engages the shock absorbing effect of the system all the time. If your wagon rear is sagging under normal unladen conditions then replacing springs (or maybe shims only, they say springs) is THE solution. The SLS is designed to respond to loads to bring it back to level if it sags low due to weight in the rear.

this information is directly from MB FSM 32-501.
I would have to say that the first thing to do if the rear end sags in unladen conditions is to see if the baseline pressure is 435 to 550 lbs. If it isn't there may be another problem there somewhere. Also the complete rebuild kit for the w123 leveler complete with orings springs pistons and balls is now available at Mercedes. I got one from the local dealer not a month ago for about $50.
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  #41  
Old 05-19-2015, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel View Post
So, should I replace the o rings in the pump? Is that even possible?
You can rebuild the pump seals in order to prevent engine oil from entering the pump. You can purchase the kits from Kent at MercSource, or go straight to the source though these guys in TN.

I bought the kit through them, but have yet to do it. I am going to do it by the end of the year, hopefully.

When I changed my accumulators, the oil was black from the engine oil mixing in. But, the reservoir's oil is clear. I checked, and the pump is recirculating to the reservoir while engine is running.
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  #42  
Old 12-24-2016, 02:41 PM
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Anyone need control valve O rings?

Have a 280TE that am sorting. No fluid leaks, no bouncy or harsh ride, replaced the sway bar links, checked one accumulator just to be sure, flushed the fluid (golden yellow), seeing get a decent flow. However, still not getting the rear to rise up with load (easily 200 pounds (two boxes of heavy spares, a 75 pound Golden, and 45 pound Goberian (my helpers)).

Do have visably bad caster and inside edges of the newer tyres bald, which is one reason why replaced the sway bar links.

Ride height with no fuel in the tank on driver's side is 24 1/4" to the wheel well lip and 23 3/4" on the passenger side. I have searched and searched and no specifications.

Thinking to order the control valve O rings, anyone interested since there is a minimum order on the smaller ones?

Thank y'all in advance for any help!
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1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

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  #43  
Old 12-24-2016, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Have a 280TE that am sorting. No fluid leaks, no bouncy or harsh ride, replaced the sway bar links, checked one accumulator just to be sure, flushed the fluid (golden yellow), seeing get a decent flow. However, still not getting the rear to rise up with load (easily 200 pounds (two boxes of heavy spares, a 75 pound Golden, and 45 pound Goberian (my helpers)).

Do have visably bad caster and inside edges of the newer tyres bald, which is one reason why replaced the sway bar links.

Ride height with no fuel in the tank on driver's side is 24 1/4" to the wheel well lip and 23 3/4" on the passenger side. I have searched and searched and no specifications.

Thinking to order the control valve O rings, anyone interested since there is a minimum order on the smaller ones?

Thank y'all in advance for any help!

SLS system references are in the W123 and W126 FSMs under section 32-501 through 32-741.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/chassis_81_to.htm

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/chassis_500SEL.htm



There is a reference in the Note on 32-501 page 32.3-504/1 "(for checking vehicle level - refer to 40-300 and 40-310)". These jobs are located in the W126 FSM.

"Permissible difference vehicle level measured between left and right side of vehicle" is 8 mm with special tool, 15 mm with tape measure. Job 40-300 page 952.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-300.pdf

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-310.pdf

Happy wrenching
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Last edited by Alec300SD; 12-24-2016 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Forgot quote
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  #44  
Old 12-25-2016, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
SLS system references are in the W123 and W126 FSMs under section 32-501 through 32-741.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/chassis_81_to.htm

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/chassis_500SEL.htm



There is a reference in the Note on 32-501 page 32.3-504/1 "(for checking vehicle level - refer to 40-300 and 40-310)". These jobs are located in the W126 FSM.

"Permissible difference vehicle level measured between left and right side of vehicle" is 8 mm with special tool, 15 mm with tape measure. Job 40-300 page 952.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-300.pdf

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-310.pdf

Happy wrenching
Thank you so very much for the help!

Notice how per usual, Startek is severely lacking. Not anywhere does it specify ride height for a W123. Those it does specify, have to measure off the suspension and preferably with a special tool. At least though does confirm something not to specification with more than a half inch difference side to side.

More important is obtaining the F.S.M. without the C.D., which is only usable on Microsoft Windows O.S.. Thanks to you, read through all them except for the 107.
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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  #45  
Old 12-27-2016, 07:46 PM
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I rebuilt the SLS in my '85TD in 2007... still going strong. 2014... I put in new Rear Struts.
Ride height... is and always has been 13.25" from Center Star to Fender Well ...with no load and empty fuel tank or 600 lbs load and full fuel tank. There are Coil Spring Pads of different thicknesses which can lower or raise the ride height by about 1/4" .

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