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  #1  
Old 08-03-2007, 01:41 PM
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Question Please Help 1993 300D

Hi, new to group and new to Mercedes diesels, just bought a 1993 300D, a body shop guy owned it and the body is better than new, custom reupholstered interior AMG wheels ect.. But mechanically it needed some help. Started with codes 11, 14, 5, 15, 9, 2, 3, and problems of real slow off the line and surging under load/ high rpms. Went through entire Vacuum and pressure system (under hood) fixed many leaks, adjusted the alda, tested all the vacuum control valves and transducers, EGR valve, wastegate valve, and measured the amount of vacuum needed to open flow control valve, even found the operating specs for the EDS pressure sensor, all tested good. I swapped vacuum transducers when I had them out to test them, swapped Y27/4 and Y27/5 even though they all bench tested ok. Cleared all the codes went for a long drive and still have no codes back yet, but still have surging under load, just worst, better vacuum to move valves now.

What’s happening during surges is, the EDS system goes into a fit as boost pressure in the manifold reaches approx 14 psi (pulling numbers from memory so may be wrong). But I’m guessing Max. The pressure cont. valve starts closing and opening about once a second in sink with the wastegate valve and all the switchover valves are going nuts, and maybe most importantly my vacuum is fluctuating 20 down to 10 inHg in sink with all the other stuff. If you let this go on for any length of time (about 10-15 cycles) it will lock up with the wastegate full open and press. cont. valve full closed, and can only be reset by turning off the car.

Other things of note, my vacuum control valve does not hold vacuum on any line, have 3 lines is this normal?(took it out and can very the leak rate by turning it ?). My ALDA has a very very slow leak, I was told the EGR valve was new when I bought the car and it looks new and test ok, I only did the leak tests of the transducers not the “in car characteristic curve test”?? Don’t have manual yet to figure that one out. I’m not a car mechanic but an aircraft mechanic and avionics technologist; so don’t have a lot of specialty tool for cars, less for Mercedes. But I’ve run out of things to test/fix anyway.

I’m hoping someone has experienced this and can tell me the quick fix, saving me from pulling out the remaining hair I have left, but all suggestions and ideas will be greatly appreciated, and any links to related stuff would also be helpful, till I get the manual I’m winging this from the net.

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Old 08-03-2007, 04:05 PM
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Does anyone have any Ideas about this??
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  #3  
Old 08-03-2007, 04:13 PM
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Have you checked the filters and performed a "diesel purge"?
As far as the rest, some one should chime in. I have a w123.

IIRC there may be a MAF sensor that may need cleaning as well.
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Old 08-03-2007, 04:38 PM
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Yes, I had a shop do the pump timing, and they found the injectors were bad, so had all those replaced, and they also did the diesel purge with a can. All filters changed, basicaly had full service so I have a starting point. I too thought of the mafs. it moves and the resistance is smoth, but have not found a complet test for that yet.
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Old 08-03-2007, 04:48 PM
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I have the 603 turbo in my 300d. I had the trap oxidizer replaced as well as the turbo.

Anyways, I had a jerking engine at full throttle up hills. After the turbo was changed things got better. Also the pump timing was adjusted but my guess is that the turbo on my car was the problem. Hope this helps.
Thanks
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  #6  
Old 08-03-2007, 04:52 PM
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I seem to be able to get all the boost I want out of my turbo, upto 20psi and the WG op's smothly, I'll check my vin to see if the traps been done.
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  #7  
Old 08-06-2007, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugsyson View Post
I seem to be able to get all the boost I want out of my turbo, upto 20psi and the WG op's smothly, I'll check my vin to see if the traps been done.
Bugsyson,

I don't think we ever had trap oxydizers here in canada. Does your speedometer read km/h only?

I've seen your PM.

I have the EGR valve on order, it has to come from Germany, still waiting for it.

How much mileage on your car?

You mention surging under loads: Do you mean no boost pressure at all under load?

I replaced one of the vacuum transducer (the wastegate one, from memory) and still had a no boost issue with the car... to discover the vacuum lines were not connected properly between the transducer and switchover valve!

Reconnected everything ok and now I have decent boost.

My only issue is with getting max boost at max RPM. Since I have found I have a badly leaking EGR, I can't do much more until I replace the EGR.

One other thing you might want to check, if not already done, is to make sure the intake flap actuator is working properly (on the pressure side of the turbo compressor wheel). Mine was toasted, the internal membrane was leaking so with max vacuum applied to it, I got no movement of the atuator rod.

Now, if this actuator is faulty, your EDS won't see any reduction in airflow into the engine (by means of the MAF) when EDS wants to see it (i.e. under light load, down hill,... your intake manifold boost gage should slightly go into vacuum under these circumstances) and will therefore kick in safety mode and apply no vacuum on the wastegate actuator, creating the no boost issue.

I may be heading the wrong way here, so let me know how this sounds to you.

Have you inspected the intake cross over pipe for intake manifold clogging with exhaust gooo? Cleaning it is also a good start, but removal of this manifold is a good job, I'd suggest you have the GPs replaced at the same time if you know nothing about them...

Ok, best of luck,

Bye for now and keep us posted with your results. It's important to post the solutions as well!
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  #8  
Old 09-19-2007, 06:11 PM
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I’ve been tinkering away at it (see first post) noticed that the inline filter was not changed by the shop after they did the diesel purge, so replaced that, helped a little with the no power off the line. My surging under load has mysteriously stopped, so I think I have an intermittent vacuum controller or relay, wait till it hard fails, they all bench tested ok. Removed the intake to replace glow plugs, and cleaned all (was not that dirty).

Was bidding on a used ALDA on ebay but was out bide at the last second at $75.01. So went to local pick a part and found one for $2.99. Refurbished it my self (used to be and instrument tech for aircraft parts) it was off a 85 300d so was very very oily inside and gummy) it tests 100% now. Tried running car with no ALDA to see if it was my “slow off the line” problem, and with alda removed it is still slow.

I’d really like to drive another 93 300D to see what the difference is. I’m going to do my 0-60 times more accurately but get good times just counting in my head aprox 12-14 sec. I might try advancing and retarding my pump timing by 2-3deg, to see what happens. There is some Adj on the pump to increase fuel, but I would have to re&re the pump to make them, but not going there for a while.

I get no smoke with ALDA removed and full throttle, in fact it’s hard to get it to smoke at all, I get just a little when you hit the kick down switch, but nothing you could see from inside the car, you have to be following it in another car to see it. Thus my thinking I’m running to lean to be getting max power before the turbo kicks in. The conundrum is once the turbo kicks in it runs great, get all the fuel it wants.
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  #9  
Old 09-19-2007, 10:25 PM
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ALLData has the TSB for highway surging (I think I posted it in another thread). How are you bench testing, vacuume, resistance?

Closer to 12 the better.

When running right and with good fuel, you should not get a lot of smoke all the time at WOT.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bugsyson;1624075 My surging under load has mysteriously stopped, so I think I have an intermittent vacuum controller or relay, wait till it hard fails, they all bench tested ok.

I’m going to do my 0-60 times more accurately but get good times just counting in my head aprox 12-14 sec.

[SIZE=3
I get no smoke with ALDA removed and full throttle, in fact it’s hard to get it to smoke at all, I get just a little when you hit the kick down switch, but nothing you could see from inside the car, you have to be following it in another car to see it. . [/SIZE]
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  #10  
Old 09-19-2007, 11:44 PM
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Diesel 1993 w140 300SD

Bugsyson,

You scare me with all the things wrong with your 300SD. I presume it is a
W140 model. As soon as I get mine back together as I am trying to fix starting problem(on this forum under different thread) I will check the
0 to 60 time. The car has tremendous power and great pickup and have
driven at over 100 mph which is incredibly smooth and solild. How is your
oil consumption situation on your car. These are known for rod bending
and ovaling out the cylinder etc. Hopefully your car doesn't have that problem.
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  #11  
Old 09-19-2007, 11:49 PM
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I don’t have a copy of the ALLDATA tsb, but have access to the Michell tsb have not found anything in there yet.

I’m bench testing using a standard vacuum pump and or a pitot static test set for things like the EDS pressure sensor and a multi meter, also tapping into the system to take voltage and resistance measurements.
I’ve found most specs for most parts and been able to test them, so far have not been able to fail anything. If you’re familiar with the “test W\codes” all pass except 4.1, “pressure control flap vacuum actuator” but it fail in a goodish way, does not supply vacuum till way after 2000 rpm, therefore does not start limiting boost pressure.

1993 300D 280K

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