With channel locks tighten split nut. Back off till you feel the wrench "break free", then retighten 10 degrees.

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83 SD

84 CD

All front end parts are new I changed bearings and races tire balance is good . There is no washer between the Nut and outer bearing . Will keep trying to figure it out.I am going to take the wheels off today and start over with the tightening of the split nut.

the way I set mine is tighten it until all perceptible endplay disappears (This is with wheel and brake caliper removed).. Then just a little further (10 degrees or so) and lock it down....

Always has worked for me. I usually check it a few hundred miles later.

You want your wheels to have 0 play, but no tighter or your just killing your bearings and your gas mileage... Too tight = too much rolling resistance......

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-Matt

EPA Section 609 Certified MVAC Technician
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Oil Burner Kartel Member #10

Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

My Car:

1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

www.icsrepair.com

Hayne's manual suggests tightening the split nut until you can not turn the rotor, then backing off 1/3 turn.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

I posted the same question on this forum. Check out the thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=166192

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1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine

I measured the threads on the spindle of my 300Dwhen I was in there.. works out 1/3 turn is ~0.014 inches by my measuring. You loose a little when you tighten down the lock screw, so you should be pretty close to spec.

My FSM says 0.01-0.02, but doesn't specify units (probably mm).

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.