CHOICE #1


http://stlouis.craigslist.org/car/382667003.html
240K miles
White on white
a/c doesnt blow cold
Starts up reliably. May need to plug it in during cold weather
Rust isnt on the floor or trunk pan but on the body itself
Owner has owned for 4 years and during that time hasnt had any work done on it other than regular upkeep, oil changes, adjustments

Going to look at Saturday




CHOICE #2


I have a 1980 116-bodied, 300SD

I haven't driven the car since the weather turned so miserably hot because the a/c doesn't work. I figure about $800 to fix it properly, and just don't want to put that much into it as I have a cherry 420SEL as a daily driver.

The car has a few problems, and I have some parts that go with it; again, awaiting cooler weather for doing the repairs. Here's a brief summary: the paint is weak (Benz Silver), the driver's seat is broken down, but repairable, both front windows are sluggish -- I have the regulator for the passenger side, complete with motor -- the driver's side works, but I use a suction cup to coax it to the top, the swaybar links on the rear are broken, but I have those too, the last time I fired it up, there was some rough idling, but that is from a vacuum leak that I haven't traced, yet.

Today is my day to visit my mother in the nursing home, and run errands for her. I can get you a bunch of pictures, but it will probably be tomorrow before I can get that done. If you are interested, the asking price is $1500, and I'd be willling to meet you in Cape for delivery. I'll throw in all the extra parts -- I have two extra climate control units, valve adjustment wrenches, the window regulator, the swaybar links, and full instructions for valve adjustment. The valves will not need another adjustment for at least 10K miles, but it is good to know how to DIY. Any other parts that I can dig up would come with the car. It would be a good candidate for a conversion.


Cant easily look at before buying



CHOICE #3

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/car/390106164.html


When I got there, dealer said hed start her up for me. Couldnt start it up. Tried to jump it. No luck. Let it charge for a while. Still no good. Then dealer sprays starter spray into the cleaner. Thing tries to run but after the spray is burnt up it dies again

Dealer said hed have it sent to his shop to get it running.
Havent heard back from him yet




My money is on number 1

def not #3 anymore... he totally screwed it up with the starting spray

#1 is probably the best bet.. its a 240D so it is minimalist at its best

go over it with a fine tooth comb if you are not getting a Mercedes Pre Purchase Inspection

poke the rockers for rust(bring something pointy but dont let them see) check the jack hole plug area

etc etc etc

Don't even consider #3 as an option.

Put it in as a joke

Even though you can't see me through the internet, I am laughing right now. I guess it would be more simple to just type "LOL".

My uncle told me to go ahead and offer him $1000 for the 240D from the start and take it from there, but Im afraid a price that low would just insult him. I know I would be

Crap. Forgot this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=140145273129&rd=1

I agree with your Uncle.

Definitely not number 3 .

I'd say number 1 sounds the best.

Number 2 sounds fishy as well. He has all the parts but didn't bother repairing it thus reducing the sale price by a lot.

__________________
1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection.

Bump for the day crew

#1 sounds the best. A 240D is much easier to work on than a 300D series in the engine compartment. I have both and that is very apparent when you have the hoods open side by side.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

rough idle can't be caused by vacuum in these cars... vacuum only controls shifts, door locks climate control and cruise control on some... the massive list of tools and parts, IF it's a rust free car, 2 is my bet... but be prepared for some work@! kinda worried that you can't look at the car before purchase... that throws it out for me.
1 sounds nice, but what trans is in it?
3... um, maybe. what spray did the tech use? if ether, run, if wd-40 or similar, OK. just need to know why it's not getting fuel. could be as simple as bad glow plugs and a clogged fuel filter.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Number 1 is an auto trans.
Not looking for a manual anyway. Not like its a sports car, just a cruiser

I suppose the 240 D automatic could be the best of those, but those car ARE indeed subject to rust, so take TheDon's advice and check it REALLY carefully, too much rust in the wrong places could make it structurally compromised and not safe.

The 240D automatics are REALLY, really slow, too. Overtaking maneuvers need to be planned carefully, and they don't climb hills very readily.

So drive it first, and be sure you could live with that before making an offer to buy it.

All of them sound like cars with woof-woofs, (even the little 190) so be clear that for that kine money you won't be getting anything without issues

__________________
1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)

my understanding is that w116 cars are REALLY BAD rust magnets... not sure for a fact, and as much as I love to look at them, Id really think twice just because Ive heard that a few times.

Please teach us all otherwise, if you have experience...

240D is simple, robust, and slow. Watch for rust and worry about everything.

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)