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  #1  
Old 08-20-2007, 06:31 PM
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Please Help, Engine won't start!

After finally pulling my injectors, relapping the lapped surfaces, and putting everything back together, my '87 300D won't start. I've cranked for up to ten seconds at a time and not even a hint of the engine starting. Now, here are some observations:

The lift pump is definitely supplying fuel to the IP.

The Injectors are NOT receiving fuel from the hard lines.

The IP side of the hard lines DO see fuel; It seems as though the fuel is not being "pushed" up the lines and into the injectors.

I rerouted the fuel lines so that the fuel supply hose was pulling fuel from a gas can (just to make sure it wasn't a filter or a tank screen issue)

The spin-on filter is brand new



Now, the car started up right before this job was done (this was the first time the car had been fired up in months), so I'm pretty sure the IP is not
shot. Could this be air in the lines? Perhaps a bad IP? I would really appreciate any and all input, I really need this car running within the next few weeks, please help!

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Old 08-20-2007, 06:38 PM
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Did you fill the spin on filter with fuel?

Edit: Sorry, should have read better. You said the IP side of the injector lines was squirting fuel.

dunno then.... sorry
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2007, 06:50 PM
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Well, I didn't fill it with fuel, it filled itself after a bunch of cranking. When I unscrew the hard fuel line nuts at the IP, some fuel leaks out. However, when I unscrew the nuts at the injectors, no fuel comes out. (I checked in reverse order: injectors, IP)
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  #4  
Old 08-20-2007, 07:06 PM
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Something else I forgot to mention:

The STOP lever is oriented horizontally; I don't remember it being this way, in fact, I always remember the STOP lever being vertical. Also, I encounter resistance when pushing the lever upwards. Could this have something to do with anything????
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  #5  
Old 08-20-2007, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dufflespank View Post
Something else I forgot to mention:

The STOP lever is oriented horizontally; I don't remember it being this way, in fact, I always remember the STOP lever being vertical. Also, I encounter resistance when pushing the lever upwards. Could this have something to do with anything????
It takes a long time to get fuel up to the injectors, at least 12 seconds, I know it seems like an "eternity" but I would crank more. Next time do the work with the engine warm and fill the filter
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Last edited by Stevo; 08-20-2007 at 09:00 PM.
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  #6  
Old 08-20-2007, 08:36 PM
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After running out of fuel, it took forever for me to get fuel back up to the injectors. I cranked for 30 seconds at a time numerous times before I had fuel all the way through the hard lines.

Just to clarify, you have the fuel injector line nuts on top of the injectors loose? Is fuel leaking out of each hard line where they meet the injector?

Regarding the STOP lever, if you are sure fuel is getting to the injectors you may want to search threads regarding the vacuum valve/stop lever malfunctioning.
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1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2007, 10:38 PM
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When I loosen the nuts of the hard lines at the injectors and crank, no fuel leaks/spurts out. However, there appears to be fuel in the hard lines down towards the IP; in other words, the other nuts that screw into the IP leak a little bit of fuel when unscrewed.
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  #8  
Old 08-21-2007, 07:40 AM
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1981 300 SD
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dufflespank View Post
When I loosen the nuts of the hard lines at the injectors and crank, no fuel leaks/spurts out. However, there appears to be fuel in the hard lines down towards the IP; in other words, the other nuts that screw into the IP leak a little bit of fuel when unscrewed.
It would appear that you should tighten the nuts on top of the IP and keep the nuts on top of the injectors loose. Keep cranking until fuel is coming out of the far end of the hard lines.

It took me multiple attempts with a good bit of waiting in between to make sure the starter cooled back down. For the hours in between when I was waiting, I had a battery charger on the car to keep the battery up to par.
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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend
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  #9  
Old 08-21-2007, 04:35 PM
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How long is it safe to crank the 603?
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  #10  
Old 08-21-2007, 05:26 PM
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update: So, I still can't get the car to fire up, however, I've made a few more observations.

There was very little fuel in the tank to begin with (stupid), but probably enough to get her going. When I opened the filler cap, a huge burst of air shot out, so obviously, there was a lot of pressure in the fuel tank. Needless to say, I dumped two gallons in.

I tried cranking once with my stop lever in the UP position, and maybe it was just a coincidence, but when I unscrewed the nuts on top of the injectors, I encountered moisture on 3 or 4 of the six.

Any suggestions?
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  #11  
Old 08-21-2007, 06:29 PM
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Car: FIXED
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  #12  
Old 08-21-2007, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dufflespank View Post
Car: FIXED
Good show!, It just needed a little more cranking? What about the vacuum(?) in the fuel tank?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2007, 04:37 AM
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Yeah, a good long crank is all it needed.

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