Huston, we have a problem .

What sort of reducer did you use?

Over here we use lpg in cars (gassers) but their reducers are big and supply a lot of lpg. We also use lpg as a heating gas, and home use reducers also give out a lot of gas (~0.3 bar=4.35psi). With the latter the engine pings a lot so I haven't used it except while testing if it'd ping or not.

I've had 2 very "exciting" occasions when I had a run away engine working only on lpg . First time I rushed outside and disconnected the power from the safety valve (the one that's being controlled by the boost switch) . The second time, I stopped, turned off the ignition and the engine was still running. I wanted to turn it off by stalling it while pressing the brakes and releasing the clutch but by instinct I engaged first and can you say huge burnout then engaged fifth so I could stall the engine .

Now I've rewired the valves so that they're controlled by the same cabin switch so I can turn both of them off if I have a situation .

I need to know what sort of reducer are you using though as it's proving to be the most challenging part .

Thanks for the help!

Deni

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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection.

Propane needs a regulator, you need to get it down to <1 PSI. then restrict the flow furthur by using a very small orafice...

You can get 12V solnoid valves at a boat shop, (they are mandatory on boats in the US w/ propane stoves and such.


Be careful and don't blow yourself up.

have you read this?

http://www.mrsharkey.com/lpg.htm

its a well written beginners guide to propane fumigation.

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Cheers,
Robert

Over here in Albania, South Europe, lpg (liquid petroleum gas) is propane. The reducer I'm talking about is the regulator.


Yep, that's my question, what/where can I find such a regulator?

Already have 2. One at the propane container, one in the engine bay.

Trying hard .

Yep, read that and many other "stories".

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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection.

Regulator from a small coleman Barbeque grill is what the guy used in the link that you have obviously already read. They are everywhere and they are cheap. Last one I bought for camping cost me $15.

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Cheers,
Robert

Don't forget that I'm not living in the US thus a "coleman barbeque grill" means nothing to me. After a search (I was using reducer and not regulator as a search word before) I think I found some regulators that might work for me.

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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection.

Here's another good article on propane fumigation http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Propane%20article.html
This fellow is using an acetylene regulator for a torch on his system.

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1971 R600 Mack toterhome (SuperDawg)
99 NU-WA Snowbird 34+2 SE 102 5er
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