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#1
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Brake Flush Question
The post on the caliper removal got me wondering about how to flush a brake system. Always wondered how best to do that. I know how to bleed a brake line. I normally bleed from the bleeder valve by pumping the pedal. Is it basically the same procedure?
Since you are working on all (4) the brake circuits, how would I know that all the lines are flushed? Do you go by fluid color? Will a fluid evacuator make the job easier? I am actually thinking about getting one not only for brake bleeding but also for engine and transmission oil changing. Only negative about the oil changing with an evac that I can think of is that it seems its not as effective in getting as much of the oil and particles out as draining it from the bottom. Would that thought be correct? I believe there was a recent thread about fluid evacs....
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#2
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Yes to flushing and bleeding. I've seen somewhere a product that pressurizes the MC and has a bunch of fluid too, so when you open the bleeder valve, there is pressure, no need to have someone pump and hold etc. I hear you are supposed to start at the furthest brake, and work your way forward. I did that on the CD, a bunch of cloudy fluid came out of the closest, left front, bleeder valve. Not too much elsewhere.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#4
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Gravity works well with the 123 and 126 brakes. flushing is as simple as cleaning out the reservoir, filling with fresh fluid, keeping it full while you open the bleeders on each wheel and watch the fluid for color change.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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I wondering if gravity will effectively push out what any foreign matter....
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#6
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most likely not. this is an ideal method to maintain brake fluid, not repair a damage system. if you have water and rust and corrosion, gravity will not fix it. but if you have no issues with your brakes and you are doing maintenance. Gravity bleeding works great with MB's.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#7
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What I use to simplify my brake work is an old all-plastic pump sprayer. I took a cast-off Mercedes master cyl cap, put a hole through it and mounted the hose of the spayer on it. I fill the master cylinder with fluid, add 2 or 3 more pints to the sprayer , attach the cap with sprayer and pump it a few strokes to get maybe 10 PSI pressure in it. Then go around and bleed. Works great.
Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#8
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Any kind if pressure bleeder is light years ahead of doing it the old, two person way. I have a "Speedy Bleeder" which gets its pressure from the L/F tire. You must be sure the two little "caps" on the master cylinder are not cracked or you get a B/F bath upon applying the pressure.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#9
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I suck out all the fluid from the reservoir. Longest line to shortest line flush, in that order. I make it a 2 man job. Open, down, close, up. Do it till the color is clear in the lines and I am satisfied that enough fluid has come out that everything is out.
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#11
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I first sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir with the Miti Vac and then when i refilled the reservoir with Valvoline Synthetic for DOT 3 & 4, I used the Miti Vac on the bleed screws until I saw clean fluid.
I started with the RR wheel, LR, RF and then LF always making sure the reservoir never went dry.
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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/ 1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing 1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake. Both on single tank WVO blend |
#12
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I have the "European Power Bleeder" Model 0100.
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#13
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83 SD 84 CD |
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