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  #1  
Old 08-29-2007, 02:01 AM
My hood can go higher?
 
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If I have the dreaded green coolant...

...would a full on flush be the best action or could I get away with just draining from the bottom of the radiator and from the thermostat housing?

I'm not too clear on the whole flush process so if I can avoid it I think I'd be better off. I really just need to replace my coolant lines that run to the trunk but figured since I'd have to drain the system to do that I might as well change to the proper stuff (green stuff was the PO's work) and also change the t-stat while I'm there.

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  #2  
Old 08-29-2007, 07:36 AM
Mister Byrnzoil's Avatar
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theres a drain plug for the engine coolant, on the rt side of the block below the exhaust.
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2007, 08:00 AM
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Heres a great explanation:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=185383&highlight=block+drain

Im in the same boat and need to do this soon. Its way easier before it gets cold up here...My plan is to drain (including block drain) completely and fill with distilled H20. Drive a couple days to work things around, and then just drain the radiator and add the correct coolant mix.

Id like to hear more opinions as well.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
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  #4  
Old 08-29-2007, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoloz View Post
...would a full on flush be the best action or could I get away with just draining from the bottom of the radiator and from the thermostat housing?
Unless you plan on turning the engine upside down, draining from the thermostat housing won't be very helpful!!!
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2007, 10:59 AM
LUVMBDiesels's Avatar
Dead on balls accurate...
 
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This is what I did...

To convert from the green stuff to the proper Zerex G05 coolant is a time consuming process, but well worth it.

This is what I did...


First I drained the radiator and block. I pull off the small hose that leads to the expansion tank to drain the radiator. If you don't have an expansion tank, pull off the lower radiator hose. Once the radiator is drained replace the hose. The block drain is located on the right side of the block in front of the starter. It takes a 19mm socket. You must remove this as most of the old coolant is still in the block and will not come out via the radiator.
It helps to put the car up on ramps.

Next I removed the thermostat, but left the rubber ring in place.

Then I flushed the system with hose water by attaching a 1/4 inch galvanized pipe nipple approximately 3 inches long to the engine block drain. I then threaded an elbow and a six inch pipe nipple to the one in the block. I cut off some old garden hose and clamped it to the six inch nipple. This way I can back flush the system.

Once I had this set up, I started the engine and turned on the defroster. With the hose running, I flushed the block until the water coming from the expansion tank was clear.

Next comes the flushing steps to remove any rust and grease in the system.

Put the block drain back in.
Fill the system with water by removing the top radiator hose from the radiator and filling it until there is water at the top of the hose, replace it and fill the rest of the way from the expansion tank.

Next put in a cup of Tide detergent. Start the car and run it with the defroster on for about 1/2 hour. Let it cool down then repeat the water flush steps until the water is no longer soapy.

Replace the thermostat. You can reuse your old one if, when you put it in a pan of boiling water it opens fully. I went with a 75 degree one when I replaced mine. It is normally for a 1970's vintage 450, but it works fine in a OM617 engine.

Next you want to do the citric acid flush. drain the system and fill it with a mixture of two gallons water with 2 pounds of citric acid dissolved in the water. (it helps to use very hot tap water to dissolve the acid powder)

Run the car with this as the coolant for a week.

Repeat the steps to flush with water. You will be amazed at the garbage and rust that comes out when you back flush the system. I flush with water at least three times, letting the car cool down between flushes. (don't want to burn yourself )

When the water is clear and does not feel 'slippery' the acid is gone.

Now you can fill the system with 50% Zerex and 50% distilled water.

If you always use the fill from the hose method, you should not have air bubbles in the system.

To purge out any air in the system during any of these steps, put the car on ramps or at least point it uphill. Remove the expansion or radiator cap. Start her up and get her up to operating temperature. Turn on the defroster. Rev her up to 3000RPM a few times. The air should come out of the system.

I know it is a lot of work to do these steps, but you will thank yourself for it when you see how dirty the acid flush water gets. Remember, if you use the correct coolant, you will not have to do this again
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2007, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels View Post
Next put in a cup of Tide detergent.
Powder or liquid?
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  #7  
Old 08-29-2007, 11:34 AM
LUVMBDiesels's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Powder or liquid?
Liquid. or if you use the powder, dissolve it in warm water first before pouring it into the radiator.
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Current
Monika '74 450 SL
BrownHilda '79 280SL
FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban
Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee
Krystal 2004 Volvo S60
Gone
'74 Jeep CJ5
'97 Jeep ZJ Laredo
Rudolf ‘86 300SDL
Bruno '81 300SD
Fritzi '84 BMW
'92 Subaru
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  #8  
Old 08-29-2007, 12:15 PM
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Good thread
I hope I don;t have to do it

What does the right coolant look like?
Mine has a bery slight greenish yellow tinge
but when dipped into a a white cloth the liquid is colorless.

Would that be the right stuff?
I just got the car w no records so I am doing alot of guessing



Thanks
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  #9  
Old 08-29-2007, 12:25 PM
dieseldiehard's Avatar
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Location: Bay Area No Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
Good thread
I hope I don;t have to do it

What does the right coolant look like?
Mine has a bery slight greenish yellow tinge
but when dipped into a a white cloth the liquid is colorless.

Would that be the right stuff?
I just got the car w no records so I am doing alot of guessing



Thanks
If you don't know the service history on the car then assume it needs everything. You can see the brake fluid in the reservoir, it should be clear with a yellowish (or in some cases Blue if its ATE blue fluid) tint. MB Antifreeze looks yellowish. What model do you have? If its the 123 series then the radiator fluid is somewhat less important than on a later model with an aluminum head. Still the stuff deteriorates over time and can start rusting the heater lines (MB uses steel pipes in places that are susceptable to electrolysis) and the water pump, etc.
A good flush and refill the cooling system is recommended every 2 years or sooner if you do a lot of driving.
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  #10  
Old 08-29-2007, 12:34 PM
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My coolant is... kinda rust-colored.

LUVMBDiesels, what did you do to dispose of the old coolant/flush water?
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  #11  
Old 08-29-2007, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard View Post
If you don't know the service history on the car then assume it needs everything. You can see the brake fluid in the reservoir, it should be clear with a yellowish (or in some cases Blue if its ATE blue fluid) tint. MB Antifreeze looks yellowish. What model do you have? If its the 123 series then the radiator fluid is somewhat less important than on a later model with an aluminum head. Still the stuff deteriorates over time and can start rusting the heater lines (MB uses steel pipes in places that are susceptable to electrolysis) and the water pump, etc.
A good flush and refill the cooling system is recommended every 2 years or sooner if you do a lot of driving.

Its a gas 83 500 SEC W126 which has an aluminum head

Thats what I thought
I had it to a mechanic & supposedly fluids looked good
I told him they are prob 2 to 4 years old.

Seems the car was used 300 miles in last 4 years
Probably only serviced to pass smog
as it failed the first time & passed 2nd in 2003 & 2005.

I had the thermo replaced as it was stickiing
Its still running got
maybe 110
got to 115 on way home

Yesterday in test idel it got to about 100 in garage

Tech thinks maybe air in the system
if not that we go from there
Flush radiator\new coolant

I think new coolant is a must

I wished he would have done that
but apparently he didn;t think it necessary
Since he is a recommended benz mechanic
& they did change the thermo

I asked him & it has the correct coolant
so at least thats good

He says since the car hasn't been driven in a while
drive it

the coolant is up to the cap so we feel its best to run it cap on & let any air ecape throuh the overflow as its just to high to run w cap off.

Thanks

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 08-29-2007 at 01:11 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-29-2007, 01:55 PM
dieseldan44's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels View Post
To convert from the green stuff to the proper Zerex G05 coolant is a time consuming process, but well worth it.

This is what I did...


First I drained the radiator and block. I pull off the small hose that leads to the expansion tank to drain the radiator. If you don't have an expansion tank, pull off the lower radiator hose. Once the radiator is drained replace the hose. The block drain is located on the right side of the block in front of the starter. It takes a 19mm socket. You must remove this as most of the old coolant is still in the block and will not come out via the radiator.
It helps to put the car up on ramps.

Next I removed the thermostat, but left the rubber ring in place.

Then I flushed the system with hose water by attaching a 1/4 inch galvanized pipe nipple approximately 3 inches long to the engine block drain. I then threaded an elbow and a six inch pipe nipple to the one in the block. I cut off some old garden hose and clamped it to the six inch nipple. This way I can back flush the system.

Once I had this set up, I started the engine and turned on the defroster. With the hose running, I flushed the block until the water coming from the expansion tank was clear.

Next comes the flushing steps to remove any rust and grease in the system.

Put the block drain back in.
Fill the system with water by removing the top radiator hose from the radiator and filling it until there is water at the top of the hose, replace it and fill the rest of the way from the expansion tank.

Next put in a cup of Tide detergent. Start the car and run it with the defroster on for about 1/2 hour. Let it cool down then repeat the water flush steps until the water is no longer soapy.

Replace the thermostat. You can reuse your old one if, when you put it in a pan of boiling water it opens fully. I went with a 75 degree one when I replaced mine. It is normally for a 1970's vintage 450, but it works fine in a OM617 engine.

Next you want to do the citric acid flush. drain the system and fill it with a mixture of two gallons water with 2 pounds of citric acid dissolved in the water. (it helps to use very hot tap water to dissolve the acid powder)

Run the car with this as the coolant for a week.

Repeat the steps to flush with water. You will be amazed at the garbage and rust that comes out when you back flush the system. I flush with water at least three times, letting the car cool down between flushes. (don't want to burn yourself )

When the water is clear and does not feel 'slippery' the acid is gone.

Now you can fill the system with 50% Zerex and 50% distilled water.

If you always use the fill from the hose method, you should not have air bubbles in the system.

To purge out any air in the system during any of these steps, put the car on ramps or at least point it uphill. Remove the expansion or radiator cap. Start her up and get her up to operating temperature. Turn on the defroster. Rev her up to 3000RPM a few times. The air should come out of the system.

I know it is a lot of work to do these steps, but you will thank yourself for it when you see how dirty the acid flush water gets. Remember, if you use the correct coolant, you will not have to do this again
Wow...what a project. I do need to do this before my car goes through the winter with the green coolant. Ick.

Thanks for posting the procedure!
__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #13  
Old 08-29-2007, 02:10 PM
vstech's Avatar
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it's not just for winter! that green coolant is damaging your plastic radiator and fittings the entire time it's in the system. summer is important to have proper cooling more than winter needs proper protection...
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  #14  
Old 08-29-2007, 02:12 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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careful with the petcock valve... mine kinda broke in the threads.. it doesn't leak but not draining the radiator requires the lower hose coming off..
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  #15  
Old 08-29-2007, 02:13 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
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and it is quite important to do the entire procedure. properly done this takes over 1.5 weeks... and LOTS AND LOTS of flushes.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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