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  #1  
Old 09-04-2007, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tampa
Posts: 195
going to help my sister with new brakes 82 300td- need list

as it states

she had a bad hack of a wvo conversion to start. would like to change all filters- how many inline etc.?

will be traveling by plane.

front brakes tool list
allen wrenches
c-clamp
bearing grease
paper towels
screw driver flat head
pry bar
*allen wrench Which size to remove rotors and change?

did the sd before, seems the above list is small

what else


thanks

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82 300d turbo 164k - passed on
83 sd - passed on
04 civic hybrid - DD
06 GTO for sale - passed on
84 VW Rabbit Diesel 4dr.- passed on
94 S350D - DD
94 S320 - soon to be DD
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2007, 02:24 PM
Stevo's Avatar
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Maybe you could have your sister read your post and translate it into something a little more understandable. Traveling by plane? Or maybe its just me after a long weekend
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2007, 04:07 PM
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland, and Larkspur, Colorado
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Attempting to decode secret message....

Brakes, front or back, require inspection, detection, and, if needed, resection.

Always safety first. Work on flat, stable area. Tranny in P and parking brake engaged. Firmly block wheel diagonally opposite the one under investigation. Lift, place vehicle on stable jack stand on solid flat foundation. A hydraulic jack alone is NOT safe. Use a stand. Do not clean the caliper area with compressed air, blowing all that crap up and maybe into your lungs. I use a nose/mouth rubber seal respirator and safety glasses.

Read the following and ID the tools needed:
1. Above safety steps.
2. Check fluid level in brake reservoir. If over MAX line, turkey baster some out and discard properly. Pressing back the pads will push some fluid back up.
3. Loosen lug bolts. On mine I use a 24" 1/2" dirve breaker bar and a 17mm impact socket.
4. Raise vehicle on jack stand.
5. Remove wheel.
6. With a flashlight, inspect hard brake line, brake hose, caliper, general area for wetness (leaking brake fluid or grease from some suspension component).
7. Using large slip-joint pliers (a.k.a. appliance or plumbing fixture pliers), gently attempt to pry the brake pad away from the rotor one millimeter (1/16"). Jaws go on the brake disk metal backing tabs. If movement detected, good; no movent = maybe a frozen piston and the entire caliper will have to be replaced (best in matched pairs, especially if you have a Bendix brand).
8. Style "A". Using needle nose pliers, remove the tiny retaining pins from the ends of the pad guide pins, and/or...
8. Style "B". Using a 3mm diameter long drift, gently punch out (small ball peen hammer) the guide pins, one at a time. Noting how they rest, then remove the pad retaining springs.
9. Depending on the vehicle, you may have pad sensor wires in front only (W123), and in the rear (W124 wagon). This means you need to have new pads and four or eight of these sensors on hand.
10. Get replacement pads only from reputable MB parts websites. The only time I got pads from Advanced Auto, the holes in the pads that were to receive the above sensors were either missing or not aligned with the notch in the metal pad backing that holds the sensor in place.
11. With the pads out, look around for rips, tears, gouges, etc.
12. Check rotor for similar uneven wear, warping, wobbles, then check thickness with a caliper. Ensure you are over the “rim” that is usually rusty and remaining at the outer edge of the rotor. If on the limit or below, replace with new rotors (a.k.a. brake disks). If you are going to do the rotors, do the bearings. See other threads on how-to DIY.
13. With the wheel out, check past the caliper at all suspension and steering components. Grab, tug, twist, pull everything back there listening for teltale clicks whle looking for old, cracked rubber, anything with grease on it, and broken linkage connection boots. With parts in hand, the linkage damper on mine can be popped out using a couple 17mm wrenches, a ball peen hammer, and a pickle fork. Torque wrench the nuts back to spec.
14. Press back the pistons carefully with a special piston tool or the appliance fixture pliers. Take care not to bite anything fragile.
15. Check the reservoir again and remove fluid as may be required.
16. Reassembly is reverse with additional, as follows.
17. Depending on the manufacturer of the new pads, a small tube of pad lube anti-squeak may be included in the pad set. Follow directions carefully on how much on which pad per caliper. Clearly none goes on the wear surface.
18. With the wheel back on and still up off the pavement, give it a spin and listen for rhythmic scraping. This may indicate a warped rotor. Replace rotors in pairs. Then grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and push top, pull bottom, reverse. This is a simple check for a loose wheel bearing. Dittos 3 and 9, this for loose steering components.
19. Start the engine and press the brake pedal a few times to do an initial seating of the pads on the rotors.
20. Check and fill the brake fluid reservoir with new, clean fluid. Do not get any on the paint; do use the integral screen under the filler cap.
21. Take out for a test ride on a not too busy road. Residential areas are good since you want to stop many times from low speeds, then go out on some back roads to pick up the speed and apply the brakes. This is the proverbial “breaking in” the new pads. There might be some aroma of the glaze burning off with normal friction heat.
22. Pedal should be strong by now. If it is mushy or soft, you have air in the lines and will need to do a bleed. See threads.
23. If the fluid in the reservoir is orangey or hasn’t been changed in a year or 15,000 miles, say, you should do a flush. See threads.

Bottom line, the proper functioning of this system may mean life or death. Do each element carefully and completely. Use a checklist if needed. Inspect everything for indications of other issues such as line failure, uneven wear, leaks.

I think that's about it. Noble Forum Fellows hopefully will check and add anything I may have forgotten. You should Google other methods and opinions as well.

Good luck. Let us know how you do.
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1985 300D "Old Blue" 265,000 (parts car )
1985 300D "Gray Ghost" 245,000
1985 300D "Silver Bullet" 160,000
1975 914 VW/Porsche "BC Car" 125,000
2010 Prius "Shocking!" 60,000
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2007, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tampa
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thanks franken- that was a constructive post

ordered -pads, sensor wires, rotors, bearing grease

have done brakes before just would like to bring necessary tools as i will be 1500 miles away.

to get the rotors off there is are allen bolts any idea what size this is?

thanks
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Brian

82 300d turbo 164k - passed on
83 sd - passed on
04 civic hybrid - DD
06 GTO for sale - passed on
84 VW Rabbit Diesel 4dr.- passed on
94 S350D - DD
94 S320 - soon to be DD
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2007, 11:43 AM
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rotors are held on with two 17mm bolts from the rear.
do not take caliper or allen wrenches. you will not need them. if you plan to replace the rotors, DO take a 10mm allen socket and a BIG breaker bar to pull the 500 or so bolts (slight exaggeration) DO take a LARGE flat screwdriver to pry the pistons back to release the pads.
I use the screwdriver to pry against the OLD pads to press the pistons ONE AT A TIME back all the way and change the old pad for new, then pry against the other pad and repeat. way simpler than using a pair of slip jaw pliers.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2007, 04:43 PM
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thats the 1- DO take a 10mm allen socket

thanks John
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Brian

82 300d turbo 164k - passed on
83 sd - passed on
04 civic hybrid - DD
06 GTO for sale - passed on
84 VW Rabbit Diesel 4dr.- passed on
94 S350D - DD
94 S320 - soon to be DD
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2007, 06:18 PM
FRANKNBENZ's Avatar
Domer
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Silver Spring, Maryland, and Larkspur, Colorado
Posts: 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
rotors are held on with two 17mm bolts from the rear.
I think vstech meant that the calipers are held on with two bolts accessible from the inboard side. I think mine are 19mm. Anyway, it only applies if you have to remove the caliper. I use a 12" rubber strap with S hooks on the end to suspend the caliper from one of the control arms (or whatever they are called).

A tip: by feel locate the bolt heads...you should find THREE the same size: two mount the caliper, the third, just below, holds some of the steering stuff together. Also, after the wheel is off, I like to lock the steering way over to the left or right stop, this exposing the caliper and rotor in their full glory.

Regarding old pad prying tools, to each his own. The important thing is to note if either piston is frozen. On Silver Bullet, a recent addition, during my usual new-car-in-the-fleet safety checks, I found two and had to replace the caliper (rebuild only for leaks, not frozen pistons).

I regularly separate rotors from hubs and use this technique using the DIY wooden work bench in my home garage:
1. Clean out the allen hex head bolts and insert the hex socket. A little penetrating oil and a few love taps with a ball peen hammer on the socket. This should loosen things up.
2. Mount hub/rotor assembly vertically on a corner of the bench, edge of rotor hanging off the bench, hub mounted on a piece of 2x4.
3. Secure with a nylon comealong ratcheting strap. I mounted an eyebolt towards the back of the bench and run the two hook ends to it. One lead goes over the hub, take up slack, ratchet the thing down till the bench cries Uncle! All this does is hold the assembly up so you can work on it easily.
4. Replace two wheel lug nuts in adjacent holes and run them in by hand finger tight (no impact or ratchet wrenches, please). These two will hold a cheater bar. I used a 1" pipe, about 30" long.
5. Insert extension and breaker bar and ensure one last time everything is lined up and secure.1.
6. Figure how Lefty-Loosey applies to your breaker bar/10mm hex socket combo (I think I also use a short 2" extension). The trick is to get the two "levers" sort of together. You may have to rotate the rotor/hub assembly around to get to this arrangement.
7. Push-pull the two "levers" against each other and about 90 foot-pounds later, the bolt should break free. Dittos the remaining four.
8. Some more love taps should separate the rotor from the hub. If this is your first separation, note how the parts go back together (although you will find they will only reassemble one way).
9. Clean the bolts with a wire brush before you put them back in.
10. During reassembly, use a drop of that blue Thread Lock liquid on the treads at the tip of the bolt. Run them all back in finger tight.
11. Torque them down using the traditional star pattern, a little at a time, until you get a hernia...

Good luck.
Hey, going such a long way, find out on Google maps where the nearest Sears might be for good tools (Sears near ). Or, if she lives anywhere near Silver Spring, MD, you can borrow my stuff.
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1985 300D "Old Blue" 265,000 (parts car )
1985 300D "Gray Ghost" 245,000
1985 300D "Silver Bullet" 160,000
1975 914 VW/Porsche "BC Car" 125,000
2010 Prius "Shocking!" 60,000
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Last edited by FRANKNBENZ; 09-05-2007 at 06:24 PM.
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2007, 11:58 PM
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thanks so much
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Brian

82 300d turbo 164k - passed on
83 sd - passed on
04 civic hybrid - DD
06 GTO for sale - passed on
84 VW Rabbit Diesel 4dr.- passed on
94 S350D - DD
94 S320 - soon to be DD
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2007, 06:42 PM
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The bolts holding the rotor to the hub will come loose easily once they have been heated with a propane torch! You don't have to get the bolts red hot, just hot enough so that the unavoidable bits of grease on the hub around the bolt of interest start smoking. All you are trying to do is to soften up the thread locker used to secure those bolts - don't forget to use blue locktite when you put it all back together.

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