Noble Forum Fellows,

Gray Ghost was purchased about 4 years ago from the OO (original owner). He indicated the sunroof had issues. I bought it anyway...a cherry car for $3K. Now I have some time to do the deed and fix the power roof.

Symptoms :
1. Roof powers open to about three inches from end of travel, then a popping / slipping sound is heard from the trunk mounted motor/gearbox assy. Could be worn knobbies on the cable, the friction clutch not being able to overcome some roof track resistance...many things.
2. When the roof slides back, the little flip-up wind deflector doesn't. Suspect the spring(s) are shot.
3. Note that with manual assistance during either the power open or close cycle, the roof will go.

Done So Far:
1. Getting tools and materials ready.
2. Purchased **************.com Bergman's DIY Lube and Clean Kit with the two types of lube (white for the rails, dark for the cable).
3. Researching threads here and elsewhere.
4. Looking in vain for any parts that may be needed.
5. I have not yet taken anything apart; unless folks advise otherwise, I will follow the Bergman steps.

What's Needed :
1. Tips and tricks over and above Bergman's book (does not address the deflector spring).
2. Description of how to fine-tune / adjust the friction clutch...if such exists.
3. Most of all, should they be needed, sources for:
. a. Sunroof cable.
. b. Spring, pop-up, deflector vane...or has anyone made one successfully from shop stock?

Thanks, all.

PS. I did find the thread on converting power to manual. If all else fails...

__________________
FRANKNBENZ

1985 300D "Old Blue" 265,000 (parts car )
1985 300D "Gray Ghost" 245,000
1985 300D "Silver Bullet" 160,000
1975 914 VW/Porsche "BC Car" 125,000
2010 Prius "Shocking!" 60,000
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Hi:

I used the 'bergman kit' on my 240d and it was spot on ...

Some suggestions:
1. Put towels over both seats, and a sheet over the entire interior of the car (avoid black dots on the sheepskin ).
2. Put a towel over the front side of the sunroof opening.
3. After pulling the trim off the left side of the trunk interior, put a basin or towels down to catch the solvent (I used a big flat tupperware and some rags).
4. When removing the cable, pull it as straight forward as possible, remembering that the first segment is rigid and will bend the tube if it's moved laterally.
5. Shoot at least a full can of cleaner down the tube, punctuating long squirts with a pass of the brush. My hippie-groovy low VOC brake cleaner seemed to work better on the old mb grease than the high-octane stuff; it's probably brand dependent though.
6. I soaked my cable in solvent (coleman fuel) after removing it and then followed with brake cleaner. The cables are expensive (>$100) so I wanted to avoid buying one.
7. My clutch slipped a lot prior to the cleanout but afterwards it hums like a baby; maybe yours will be similar so you won't need to adjust it?

Good luck! It's one of the easiest & most rewarding jobs I've done on this car.