The wife's 91 W124 when put in reverse will lock up the left rear wheel and not move. Thank goodness it can be rolled back w/o any problems and it drives forward fine. I guess I have a linkage problem. I am having a GTG here the 13th maybe someone will be here and can crawl under the car and fix the thing or tell me what I need buy to fix it.

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Did you check tranny fluid level according to the manual?

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Yup, no problem there. It is in fine shape since the service was done about 3,000 miles ago. I did have to replace the shifter bushing that was worn out at that time. I wonder if the lock tab holding the bushing in place hasn't come off and the bushing came loose blocking the linkage.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

If it's only one rear wheel, I'm thinking it's a diff issue....but I don't know what in the diff it would be. They usually don't go bad; MB diffs are pretty solid.

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I agree that sounds more like a rear end problem if only one wheel is locking up. If it was linkage related, either the car wouldn't try to move, or would move the wrong way or the right way. If it was trans related, either it'll work or not work. If it was a parking or driving brake issue, it wouldn't matter whether you hand pushed it or tried to drive it, the wheel would still lock up. A rear diff problem however, can cause one side to bind & change with load as the gears try to "wind up" on each other, a missing tooth on a gear can cause a misalignment and bind, or a bad bearing could allow a shaft (pinion or carrier) to skew and bind under load in reverse. They are helically cut teeth, so they will behave differently depending on which way they are loaded by the engine, and you may not feel it if a tooth is broken when going down the road. You may also have a bad spider gear (the one that the axle spline slips into). I would grab the pinion shaft right where the driveshaft flexjoint is and try to wobble it around (with no load on the driveline, including the vehicle locking against it in park) If it has any wobble you can feel or see, thats a bad thing. If that's ok, pop the rear cover and inspect the insides for wobble slop or damage/loose pieces floating around in the oil. You probably needed to change the diff fluid by now anyway,lol. Probably wouldn't hurt to check the hub bearings and flex shaft joints either on the suspect wheel, they can also cause this.

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Hmm sounds familiar. I had the same problem happen to my 83 SD. Found out that the E-brake shoe was stuck locking the left rear wheel preventing it from reversing, but it was ok to move foward

Check your e-brake shoe and all the e-brake components.

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It's not e brake as it will roll back in nutral, and if you give heavy throttle it will back up slowely. That is reason I was thinking linkage.

I changed the fluid differential fluid at the same time as tranny and no unusual objects or smell in either.

My first thought was E-brake and then I though about differential. But differential should have given some warning of inpending problems, it didn't. So I thought about the only thing it could be is something came loose or got caught in linkage. But I could be, and often am, wrong.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

Walt, what linkage are you referring to? Shift linkage might cause the trans to fail to fully engage reverse.........but, they'll be no "locking up" of the left rear wheel if this were to occur.

I don't see any possibility of locking up one rear wheel via the engine/transmission combination. Either the problem is in the diff (unlikely) or there is no lockup of a single wheel.

What's your symptoms of "lockup"? If there is truly a lockup of some type, the torque from the engine must load up something in the driveline. This will cause the vehicle to rise dramatically in the rear due to the high force imparted to the body (with increasing power). If the transmission is not sending power to the diff...........none of the above will occur and the engine will rev freely above 2000 rpm.

When you first put it into reverse from park it will back up a few feet and then it locks up the rear wheel from what I can tell in the drive way and you can give the car throttle and it will move backward with difficulty and the car does not rev freely, but it did torque up some. Now mind you I didn't give it that much throttle, but let of the throttle and put the shgifter into neutral and it will easly roll backward. I first thought E-brake, but then I thought that since it will roll back easy when in neutral it can't be the E-brake. I have been having second thoughts and think it may be e-brake.

One thing I didn't think about or mention is the tranny was always put in drive from reverse before being put into neutral to rool back. Maybe I was unlocking rear e-brake???

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

That's perplexing.

1) It rolls freely in reverse.............this should eliminate the e-brake as the culprit

2) It won't move in reverse when in reverse gear. This would direct your attention to the diff or the tranny..........but, neither of these two suffer from such a failure.

If you can support the back end of the vehicle and operate the engine and drivetrain in reverse, it might provide some additional insight into what's happening there.

I will have to wait till either my mechanic friend is better (has flu) or till the GTG here the 13th, with some guys that know what they are doing and can check it out.

I drove the car 60 miles to fill it up in near-by town that has a 50 cetane B2 fuel station and both in town and on the highway it drove perfect, without any strange noise or movements. The only thing I can think of is it is not coming out of drive all the way when it is shifted to reverse or park, which might be caused by linkage blockage or failure.

I will let everyone know when I find out the trouble.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

Sorry to Bump this old thread up.
Oldnavy, Just wonder did you fix it? and what cause it to fail? look like my trans have the same problem....cheer

No problem, had a snap ring IIRC break and if I had took it in when problem first presented I would have had a $400 to $800 repair. As it were we drove to too long and parts started breaking loose and ended up even damaging the trany case (it has gear faces cut into case) and cost me about $2300 or there abouts. Been fine ever since, and care runs great with the new injectors that were pop tested before installing and new GP also.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

Thanks Oldnavy, look like I have to drop my for a rebuilt as soon as I can. other while it will end up like you $2300 is a pain to pay.....cheer

It's only money if you die you can't take it with you, so why leave it to wife's new boyfriend or kids who would blow through it like it was nothing. Or as with the way it is shaping up here, have the government rob the working man to support those who are not inclined to work and to line the politicians pockets.

__________________
'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.