I am new owner of a really nice '87 300sdl. It is a dog off the line and I read about the banjo bolt on the Alda getting clogged. After looking at everyone's pictures, my Alda looks different. It doesn't look like I have a banjo bolt. Am I correct or am I looking in the wrong place? If I am correct, do you no longer have to clean it because of the design change? I can't seam to find pics of an '87.

There is no banjo bolt on the OM603 engine as would be found on the OM61X series engines with reference to any sort of 'cleaning.' The banjo fitting is clearly visible on the OM61X engines. Just doesn't exist on the OM60X series engines.

As for cleaning of components, what is typically done is the hard plastic lines running from the fitting on the intake manifold to the vacuum switchover valve (formally called the overboost protection switch) are removed and cleaned internally (although the line is cheap from the dealer so simply replacing it is another route, too) using a burst of carburetor cleaner through its spray tube. The cleaner can be shot the the switchover valve as well without any damage to the valve.

If these lines (2 of them) are clogged with soot, cleaning them will give a noticeable (generally speaking given other factors) improvement in acceleration of the vehicle. Refering to the attached image, the parts discussed are numbers, 551, 593, and 603.

Making adjustments to the ALDA is an entirely separate event altogether.

Attached Thumbnails

 

It is possible that you just have a plugged nipple, on the Rt side of the intake manifold, it can be cleaned with a pipe cleaner, or a shot of carb cleaner using the small thin plastic tube that fits into the spray nozzle on the can (take care it it doesn't squirt back in your face!) these tend to get plugged like the banjo fittings on the 617 engines. The nipple unscrews too if necessary.
If the nipple is not plugged then check the switchover valve as mentioned. If you have a piece of small id rubber hose you can bypass the switchover directly from the nipple on the manifold to the ALDA as a quick check. With the other appendages going to the ALDA left in place if you want.
There was a fellow that spent 15 months working on a sluggish 603 to find out his ALDA was bad. Don't ever blow compressed air into it for any reason, nor do a vacuum check thats probably worse as they are only supposed to ever "see" something like 15 psi normally.
And if there is still a Nasty Trap Oxidizer on the engine suspect that bugger.
Last item that you might find to cause it to get sluggish is a partially stuck-open valve in the exhaust as part of the boost dump, called a turbo bypass I believe. I had one sticking and had to decarbonize it to get my boost back to spec. after which it was like a new car!

__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

You guys Rock! I posted this question late last night, drank a bottle of wine and woke up to 3 answers! You guys are fast, or bored. Dieseldiehard is the turbo bypass different from the wastegate? Where would i find the Trap Oxidizer?

Can I use brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner?

Consider removing the ALDA completely on the 603:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=162744&highlight=603

Actually, Cain, I do use brake cleaner. It tends to evaporate much quicker.

Slow off the line is an IP adjustment usually, although you can fiddle the ALDA to do the same thing (the correct fix is a different shim under the ALDA actuating rod).

Check that the boost system holds pressure -- disconnect the line at the manifold (white plastic, goes to a small nipple just about exactly in the center) and blow into it. If you get no resistance, check for leaks and for a failed switchover valve (venting out the top with no power applied) --they do fail.

Note that diesels DO NOT spin the tires when you tromp them. You get some power, but you have to have some revs to get significant boost before they come on strong. If you are getting a small amount of black smoke drifting behind the car when you tromp on it, you have all you are going to get until the boost comes up.

There is an air recirculation valve on the turbo (for the trap oxidizer, no longer installed, I hope) -- if that sticks open, you get no boost. If the wastegate is stuck open, or the link is off, you won't get any boost (I've seen both).

If the turbo is bad, you won't get any boost, either, but again, you dont' have any on takeoff anyway, crappy opening throttle peformance is the IP or the fuel, not the boost system. No "kick" of smooth power as the rpms go up is a turbo or boost signal or ALDA problem.

That car should do 0-60 in around 12 sec -- if you have that, it' ain't gonna get better without IP modifications.

If you do still have the trap oxidizer, it's probably plugged and/or the turbo is shot. Go to the nearest Benz Dealer and have it checked out, replacement with a straight pipe, a new turbo, and new trap catalyst is a warrenty program, free to you. Most dealers will NOT do this until the trap is well and truely plugged, though. Don't just get the pipe and replace it, if the trap is gone and it ate the turbo, you get to buy it instead of getting it free, and you may get snagged someday for not having the trap catalyst, $$$$

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Lots of help lurking here, no?
Well, I disagree with Brian on removing the ALDA, you will need to read the threads on that and decide if you are the type of driver that can tolerate some of the side issues that arise from that action. A proper running SDL will do fine with the ALDA, but some other things like the EGR and the TRAP should definitely be dealt with. OTOH shimming the ALDA is something I have done before with good results when hotrodding an otherwise good running diesel.
Don't worry about the ALDA until you've identified the source of your problem, its either not enough fuel or not enough air. Those are the two things that can make a diesel sluggish.

Here is the last post someone shows a OM603 TRAP very well defined: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=1540619&postcount=2
DDH

__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!