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  #31  
Old 10-06-2007, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by conor View Post
had some trouble because I was twisting the brake line above it/connected to it. Anyone know the best method of taking the brake hoses off?
If you have already broken the brake hose fitting loose at the caliper, remove the caliper and twist it off the hose instead of trying to unscrew the hose with the caliper still installed.

If your brake hoses are original, this would be the perfect opportunity to renew them. That said, take great care if you separate the hose from the hard line. Mess that up and you will complicate matters greatly.

Since you are replacing the calipers, the hose may not "index" correctly on the new caliper anyway, which would necessitate loosening the upper end of the hose to avoid a twist in the hose.

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  #32  
Old 10-06-2007, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Since you are replacing the calipers, the hose may not "index" correctly on the new caliper anyway, which would necessitate loosening the upper end of the hose to avoid a twist in the hose.
That's a good point, TF. If the threads don't seat at the proper place, the line will twist and you might as well have taken it off the hard line to begin with.

The removal from the hardline is fraught with risk..........as you know.........probably should not be attempted without proper metric flare nut wrench.
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  #33  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
unless your bleed valve is perfect you should consider buying a new one.

Tom W
Ok, so it's a bleed valve. Well, it came with the caliper, but it doesn't have a top (covering the valve like my old one) to it. Do I take it out and put something else in, cover it up, or put the old valve (with a cover) in it?
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  #34  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:32 PM
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It seemed to make more sense to take the caliper off first and then unscrew the hose rather than twisting it up. So, the caliper is off and the hose hangs from the brake line (hardline?) How do I get the darn thing off of the hardline - it seems that with every turn the hardline turns too.
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  #35  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:40 PM
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The nut on the hard line should turn independently of the hard line itself. Your nut might be frozen to the line.
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  #36  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by conor View Post
Ok, so it's a bleed valve. Well, it came with the caliper, but it doesn't have a top (covering the valve like my old one) to it. Do I take it out and put something else in, cover it up, or put the old valve (with a cover) in it?
Have you considered using just the old cap on the new valve? The cap is just a dust cover, which is not to say that it's not important.
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  #37  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by conor View Post
It seemed to make more sense to take the caliper off first and then unscrew the hose rather than twisting it up. So, the caliper is off and the hose hangs from the brake line (hardline?) How do I get the darn thing off of the hardline - it seems that with every turn the hardline turns too.
Do not let the hardline turn. You need two wrenches..........one of which (the smaller one) would be better as a flare nut wrench. The smaller nut turns inside the brake hose. The danger is rounding the corners on the smaller nut. If you do that.........you're toast.

Get a bit of heat on the outside of the brake hose (carefully) in an attempt to break the bonds of the nut.

You're working in a difficult area.........two wrenches and some patience are mandatory.
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  #38  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Do not let the hardline turn. You need two wrenches..........one of which (the smaller one) would be better as a flare nut wrench. The smaller nut turns inside the brake hose. The danger is rounding the corners on the smaller nut. If you do that.........you're toast.

Get a bit of heat on the outside of the brake hose (carefully) in an attempt to break the bonds of the nut.

You're working in a difficult area.........two wrenches and some patience are mandatory.
OK sounds good. Thanks!
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  #39  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Have you considered using just the old cap on the new valve? The cap is just a dust cover, which is not to say that it's not important.
That's what I was thinking - I turned in one old one with the old caliper for the CORE return. I'll try calling them to get it back.
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  #40  
Old 10-06-2007, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by conor View Post
I turned in one old one with the old caliper for the CORE return.
That's the "exchange" that I was talking about.

I never turn in a core until the job is complete.
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  #41  
Old 10-06-2007, 10:35 PM
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Changed both rear calipers, changed the brake hoses, inserted the new pads, bled and changed the brake fluid.

While bleeding the front brakes I noticed that the pads were rubbing the disk. Took it out for a drive and there was a sound like the pad was rubbing the disk at one point every rotation. It is a new sound that I didn't have before I did work on the rear brakes.
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  #42  
Old 10-06-2007, 10:40 PM
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hmm, it could just be a little rust on the rotor from sitting for a while, or you could have a warped rotor. where did you notice the pad hitting? was it on the ridge around the rotor? did youmeasure your rotor thickness up front? it may be below the limit.
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  #43  
Old 10-08-2007, 02:15 PM
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Haven't heard that sound after driving awhile. All is good. Thanks for all your useful advice everyone!
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  #44  
Old 10-08-2007, 09:23 PM
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See if you can get stainless pistons for the calipers, otherwise it may be less expensive to get a caliper from a junk yard and just swap it. If you rebuild one caliper make sure you the the other one on the same "axle".
Mike

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