|
|
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If your brake hoses are original, this would be the perfect opportunity to renew them. That said, take great care if you separate the hose from the hard line. Mess that up and you will complicate matters greatly. Since you are replacing the calipers, the hose may not "index" correctly on the new caliper anyway, which would necessitate loosening the upper end of the hose to avoid a twist in the hose. |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The removal from the hardline is fraught with risk..........as you know.........probably should not be attempted without proper metric flare nut wrench. |
#33
|
||||
|
||||
Ok, so it's a bleed valve. Well, it came with the caliper, but it doesn't have a top (covering the valve like my old one) to it. Do I take it out and put something else in, cover it up, or put the old valve (with a cover) in it?
|
#34
|
||||
|
||||
It seemed to make more sense to take the caliper off first and then unscrew the hose rather than twisting it up. So, the caliper is off and the hose hangs from the brake line (hardline?) How do I get the darn thing off of the hardline - it seems that with every turn the hardline turns too.
|
#35
|
|||
|
|||
The nut on the hard line should turn independently of the hard line itself. Your nut might be frozen to the line.
|
#36
|
|||
|
|||
Have you considered using just the old cap on the new valve? The cap is just a dust cover, which is not to say that it's not important.
|
#37
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Get a bit of heat on the outside of the brake hose (carefully) in an attempt to break the bonds of the nut. You're working in a difficult area.........two wrenches and some patience are mandatory. |
#38
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#39
|
||||
|
||||
That's what I was thinking - I turned in one old one with the old caliper for the CORE return. I'll try calling them to get it back.
|
#40
|
|||
|
|||
That's the "exchange" that I was talking about.
I never turn in a core until the job is complete. |
#41
|
||||
|
||||
Changed both rear calipers, changed the brake hoses, inserted the new pads, bled and changed the brake fluid.
While bleeding the front brakes I noticed that the pads were rubbing the disk. Took it out for a drive and there was a sound like the pad was rubbing the disk at one point every rotation. It is a new sound that I didn't have before I did work on the rear brakes. |
#42
|
||||
|
||||
hmm, it could just be a little rust on the rotor from sitting for a while, or you could have a warped rotor. where did you notice the pad hitting? was it on the ridge around the rotor? did youmeasure your rotor thickness up front? it may be below the limit.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#43
|
||||
|
||||
Haven't heard that sound after driving awhile. All is good. Thanks for all your useful advice everyone!
|
#44
|
|||
|
|||
See if you can get stainless pistons for the calipers, otherwise it may be less expensive to get a caliper from a junk yard and just swap it. If you rebuild one caliper make sure you the the other one on the same "axle".
Mike |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|