I have an 84' 300d with the 617.... I know I need to replace the IP, but I'm not really sure where to find any good threads on doing it. Does anyone have any information... start to finish on the Replacement of it? I have another IP laying around, I just need to know the proceedure.... Can anyone help me out here

http://members.cox.net/lnewcomb99/Documents/IP-remove.pdf

What makes you think it needs to be replaced? They rarely fail unless you ran alot of water contaminated fuel through it or have gobs and gobs of miles.

If you do it start with the balancer at the 24 degree mark and make sure its 24 degrees before TDC of the compression stroke. You'l see where the IP is set when you look at the splined shaft.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I have 200K on the engine... I was told by my mechanic that it was time..

How does the car run? I have 240,000 miles, on the original IP. Many others here have way more miles, on the original IP.

Was unheated/non dewatered veggie oil run through it? That can damage an IP.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

But I think you need a new mechanic more then a new IP. That kind of mileage is just getting going so far as that IP is concerned. Secondly, if you go to a mechanic for any of your Benz work, that is a job I would farm out. I would really find out from this "mechanic" what benefits you will have by installing a different IP. It just sounds like such a stupid reply. Really!

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

That doesn't sound like something a mechanic with MB experience would say, not something that anybody would say if they have been hanging around here for long Most of these pumps last the life of the car.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Never unheated, but I have a frybrid kit installed.

The engine is really struggling on diesel. I'm not switching over to grease anymore, but after a 10 miles or so, the car basically can't pull the fuel through.

The mechanic is...well... a mechanic... I just didn't have time to fix it myself... now I do.

I dunno, maybe I'll get lucky and not have to replace the IP, but reading up on other people's posts, I'm pretty sure thats what it is.

On a totally unrelated symptom, I have oil coming out of my intake.... I forgot to tighten the oil cap down a few months ago and drove the car for a few miles with it off... needless to say there was oil everywhere. Now I have oil coming out of my intake hose....

This might seem really basic, but have you tried changing your fuel filters?

Without more info, it could be possible that it is just something else elsewhere in the fuel path. Someone who knows more than I do will probably be able to help you diagnose things to try first.

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Yeah, replaced all of my filters and all of my lines.

You could have a partially obstructed tank filter or a weak lift pump from struggling with the alternative fuel earlier. Or even a gunked up lift pump.
Even though you have switched back to diesel make sure enough fuel is reaching the pump with enough pressure to make fuel flow from the return line off the injection pump.
No flow from a couple of elements could indicate not enough fuel is getting to the pump to keep the elements loaded properly. The only fly in the ointment so to speak is usually it is the first two elements that dry up first with inadaquate fuel. If there is no fuel coming out the return line when running try feeding the lift pump with a bottle of fuel direct.
Being the last two elements might indicate air in the fuel though as a possibility as well. I have always thought since my intellect is somewhat limited the burning of alternative fuels does have a hiden price.
You have to be willing to take the additional time to deal with troubles that may not occur running straight diesel for the life of the car. Of course your pump might be bad but I would certainly check very carefully prior to going there. What one thinks is really irrelevant until other things have been properly eliminated.
The clue here is it is the two non producing or weak producing elements are side by side at one end of the pump. If it were any two in the centre area I would still conduct the same tests. Just the end result might turn out to be more serious.
If the spare pump has just been laying around I would not trust it. In my experience getting a used pump that has sat full of diesel is still a risk but a better one. The only way I will trust a used average pump in any storage of more than a month or so is if it is held full of fuel. You could luck out though. Just my two cents worth.