Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-24-2007, 02:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
87 300DT no start

over the past my car has been getting a little hard to start when cold, it didn't take long till it began to give me a little trouble starting when it got warm, it has steadily gotten worse to the point it won't even start, about the time the starting issue started, i noticed a light cloud of smoke at idle, and now it pours smoke out at idle, it's also down on power, does this sound like the IP? I don't think it's glow plugs since the light stays on about 7 sec's, I know my ford's won't turn the light on at all if one goes out, plus it is hard to start hot now.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-24-2007, 02:36 PM
Diesel Dan's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 264
Have the injector nozzles ever been replaced? They could be dirty or worn. I assume you have checked your fuel filters. I have clear fuel hose on mine, so if I have a problem, I can quickly see if it is related to fuel delivery, or air in the system. Although from the injection pump on, you obviously can't have clear hose, since the lines are metal.
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-24-2007, 03:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
I have done all the basics like fuel and air filters, I actually do have clear fuel lines up to the injection pump and they have no air, I have no idea if the injectors are coked up or not, I guess I should remove one and see, would that make it hard to start?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-24-2007, 03:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
I went out and took out a couple of injectors, they were coked pretty bad, I assume it is supposed to be smooth shiny metal on the tip, the surface area exposed to to the pre chamber looked like someone put a few drops of engine oil on them and put a torch to it. Can I clean them or should they be replaced? also, should I replace the prechamber, I heard you can buy those to.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-24-2007, 05:01 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,177
Was this car run on WVO/SVO? If so, a post pics of the injectors please.

Also make sure the prechamber ball bearing is still in place.
__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-25-2007, 12:24 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
yes it was run on wvo, I bought a kit and ran it for a while and discovered the oil never got above 115 degrees, I have put a 16FPHE but I think it was too late, where is this ball bearing located? and how do I remove the prechamber? When I get the car fixed, I am going to get a vegtherm to go with it. I'll take a pic tomorrow, don't know how to post them, but I will figure it out, I definantly know it's coked.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-25-2007, 11:03 AM
Diesel Dan's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302ranger View Post
yes it was run on wvo, I bought a kit and ran it for a while and discovered the oil never got above 115 degrees, ...
Which brand kit did you buy?
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-25-2007, 09:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
it was a grease car kit, it was a pain in the butt for me, low temps, air in the system, and low power (not saying all their kits are like this, this was just my experience) I put clear fuel line on it, the FPHE and put a different waterblock filter, one I can buy locally and not have to order every time I need a replacement. I also ran a return line back to the tank instead of the looped return. I think I did all this too late, I assume the low temps led to my coked injectors, I did get the car started before I took the injectors out, it is still is hard to start, could the IP timing be off or could it just be injectors. I thought the GP light was on about 7sec's but it is on about 4 sec's, is this normal?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-25-2007, 11:04 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302ranger View Post
yes it was run on wvo, I bought a kit and ran it for a while and discovered the oil never got above 115 degrees, I have put a 16FPHE but I think it was too late, where is this ball bearing located? and how do I remove the prechamber? When I get the car fixed, I am going to get a vegtherm to go with it. I'll take a pic tomorrow, don't know how to post them, but I will figure it out, I definantly know it's coked.
Have you tried draining the tank and running it on Diesel fuel to see if this improves things? There might be a DIY thread on removing the precombustion chamber or If you do not have a manual for your car go to your main public library (the manual may tell you how to remove the precumbustion chamber). Also there is often a cutaway picture of the engine and sometimes one that shows the cylinere head and the precumbustion chamber. Some where in the lower 1/3 to 1/2 there as a steel arm with a ball on it. I cannot tell from the pic if the arm extends across to the other side of the precombustion chamber. It is directly in the line of fire of the injector spray and if unatomized raw fule is shot on it over time it can burn. Also when you looked at the injectors was the pintle end still sticking out of the injector nozzle or is it burned off. Is the area around the injector nozzle spray hole eroded or burned away?
If you wanted to the precombustion chambers could be removed and cleaned (possibly soaked in carburator dip) as the other members how to do it. You would only need to buy new ones if there is some sort of damage to them (they cost $80-$90 each on the internet).

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page