I have a transmission out of an '82 240D that had a loose output shaft on it.. the nut was a 4 pin type with a collor which gets bent into a tab to hold it in place. I built a 4 pin socket and tightend the nut..Now the seal has taken to leaking which I replaced, but retightening the nut is not gonna happen with my homemade socket any more..

two questions, can I use the nut on the end of the automatic transmission ? they appear to have changed to a 12 point type with metal tab for a retainer.

If so, what size is it, does any one have any idea?

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46 WDX Power Wagon

84 300TDT daily driver

The 12-point on the automatic should be a 30mm. You will need a deep socket.

Thank you, That is a great help.

Jason

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46 WDX Power Wagon

84 300TDT daily driver

Please let us know how this turns out.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

The whole project which should have been a long weekend has been a two month comedy of errors.. so I will let you know, and hope that I am still smiling.

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46 WDX Power Wagon

84 300TDT daily driver

It fits.. so the 12 point 30 MM nut from a automatic, fits the 4 speed tail shaft.. which explains why fastlane doesn't list the 4 pin (or what to call it I dont know?) nut.. I ended up using a 30mm 3/4 inch drive socket, which was not a deep socket.. those are hard to find in these parts (in 1/2 inch drive) but the 3/4 was deep enough, and still had enough room to get the socket head to slip in enough, and work..

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46 WDX Power Wagon

84 300TDT daily driver

Thanks, I have a couple automatics lying around, I'll take a look. So you can use that and its "keeper" in place of the nut which in my case will be buggered up by the time I get it off. Thanks for the up date.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I have the parts list email me and I will email it to you. irebuilt one about 5 years ago

What is the best way to remove the locking tab on the transmission output shaft nut? I have just spent some hours trying to unlock it. First I tried to straighten it with a punch. When that didn't work, I tried to cold chisel it out of the way and just succeeded in locking the nut up more firmly. Finally, I drilled a hole in the nut adjacent to the mangled tab and split the nut with a cold chisel, ground to fit. All the time I was worried about damaging the output shaft thread. Fortunately I didn't, but next time?

I don't think the nut difference is entirely a MT-AT thing. Sometime in the mid '80s ZF changed from slotted to 12 point on ATs. I don't work on MTs. IIRC the 12 point nut supersedes the slotted nut in the EPC.

I took a common $5 deep socket of the same outer diateter as the slotted nut and used a grinder to castelate the business end to fit the nut. The garage is a mess waiting for the garage door people to show up so it'll be a while before I can find it :/

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E329 wagon

I've seen several homemade tools for this. These websites show the pin wrench sockets and some of the dimensions.

Mercedes Tools - Mercedes Benz Special Tools & Repair Information-Tool
MERCEDES TOOLS / MB TRANSMISSION / / ZDMAK auto tools

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

A small flat blade screwdriver can work to get under the tab.