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  #1  
Old 11-08-2007, 09:35 AM
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'78 W123 200D Manual
 
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W123 lubricating accelerator linkages

After being sat for 18months, I finally got my 200D started! BUT, the accelerator only has two settings now; idle or full throttle.

I've freed it up so it works by hand, but it's not springing back - I'm guessing the weedy spring connected to the bar on the firewall isn't strong enough to overcome two winters of rust, so what can I do to free it all up and get it moving smoothly again?

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  #2  
Old 11-08-2007, 09:49 AM
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Take apart all the pieces on the throttle linkage, try and get as much rust off as possible, then re-grease and go?

I think diesel giant sells end pieces for the throttle linkages if they're too rusted to be salvaged, for a reasonable price.
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2007, 10:00 AM
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'78 W123 200D Manual
 
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The links themselves are held on with wire (the sockets are so worn they don't clip onto the ball part of the joint any more.)

Anyway, the links from the fuel pump, over the engine and to the intake throttle are ok - it was the pivot below that (by the alternator) that seems to have seized, or it may be closer to the pedal itself. WD40 loosened it, but I think you're right - just grease it and work it in by hand might be the way forward.
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2007, 10:10 AM
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http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=2801E4JCT2810LQ5GK&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=All&part=Throttle+Linkage+Socket

Buy new ball sockets and steel wool the balls. Check the fire wall pivot point also.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=2801E4JCT2810LQ5GK&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=All&part=Throttle+Bushing

Dave
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2007, 10:25 AM
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check any cables

I am not totally familiar with this model, but cables can freeze or drag inside the housings. I would check them and if they are stiff drip a teflon lube like Tri Flow into the end of the housing and actuate the pedal to move the lube in.
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2007, 12:21 PM
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FWIW, I read somewhere that ATF is the recommended lubricant for the ball-and-socket throttle linkages. Maybe DieselGiant.
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2007, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ljsense View Post
FWIW, I read somewhere that ATF is the recommended lubricant for the ball-and-socket throttle linkages. Maybe DieselGiant.
ATF is the preferred lubricant for the throttle linkage.

The only cable used in the throttle linkage is the cable on top of the valve cover that goes to the tranny.

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
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1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #8  
Old 09-15-2012, 08:20 AM
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Huh-

Whazzat?
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  #9  
Old 09-15-2012, 08:27 AM
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Whazzat?
Dirty filthy spam users . I made them go away
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  #10  
Old 09-15-2012, 10:09 AM
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Dang I missed it.

Old thread but the info is great. the linkage Ball and Sockets get over looked and will become a safety issue. Either sticking and not returning or not being able to get the engine to respong quick enough. If the little Circlip inside the Socket could rust to the point it won`t hold the Ball and Socket together.

I have seen quite a few in the PNP yards that are so rusty, trying to pop them loose I have bent the rod or arm they are attached to.

I know MB recommends ATF, but I use Synthetic grease. fill the cup, grease the ball and stick it on. Iam under the hood often enough checking and servicing things, Iam on top of it, so not worried about the dirt getting stuck in the grease.

Be sure to lube the one down behind the IP and the one on the firewall, those 2 get neglected.
Only takes 5 min to service these things.

Charlie
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  #11  
Old 09-15-2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by charmalu View Post

Be sure to lube the one down behind the IP and the one on the firewall, those 2 get neglected.


Charlie
Guilty.

Doing the group today and I'll be damned if I can figure out a way to pop those two, especially the one behind the IP. If I do pop it, it'll be three weeks to get it back on............

Any tricks?
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  #12  
Old 09-16-2012, 12:45 PM
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Brian, I use is a HF pry bar about 16" long with a plastic handle, has a slight bend on the end to pop them on/off.
I pry against the IP and push against the rod, and it pops off.

To attach it, pry against the block, line it up against the socket, and gently push. You may have to use a long screwdriver behind the IP lever to brace it from flexing.

I have kept mine lube often enough the come off easy.
If they haven`t been off in along time and are dry, the lever on the IP might bend. spray some Kroil or other penetrating oil might loosen them up for removal. It is easy to over look this one ball/socket.

Hope this helps.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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