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  #16  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I'd be a little concerned about silicon sealant getting inside the hose and blocking an oil passage somewhere. I know of a helicopter crash with multiple deaths caused by the engine rebuilder inadvertently getting sealer in an oil gallery which caused the engine to seize.

How you do something is extremely important. I put the silicone on the hose barb (tubing) about 1/2 inch away from the hole in the tubing. When you push the hose on it pushes the silicone away from the hole in the tubing.
I have seen failures also: Where I used to work a person used silicone on an oil pump gasket and plugged up one of th outlet holes that went to the cam shaft resulting in a ruined cam and bearings.
In a similar situation a man made cut his own gasket for an oil pump and forgot to punch one of the outlet holes and also ruined bearings.
A mechanic shoved a rag into the oil line (this is on a engine inside of a minesweeper with a separate engine oil tank). The crew on the next shift came behind him hooked up the oil line with the rag inside. The rag stoped at the oil pump!
All of the people concerned were experienced mechanics who were not paying attention.
I have made my share of mistakes too but have manage to avoid the ones that caused damage to someones engine.

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  #17  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:19 AM
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hold on. how much pressure is the oil in the cooler under? isn't it just the oil that goes into the pan? if so, there is no real pressure there. if it's in the circuit after the filter, but before the passages in the motor, then sure lots of pressure possible, but I don't know. anyway, if it is under severe pressure, (cause MB's Oil Pump is a MASSIVE pump that really puts out some pressure) is the hose 300Working PSI, or is it a max burst of 300?
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  #18  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
If you really can't afford $100 (for the two lines) to spare for the longevity of your motor, maybe you should drive something else. No way I'd let that be under my hood.
Depends on the car, my SD wasn't worth the time or money to me. A rusted junker is a rusted junker regardless of what you do to it.
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  #19  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:25 AM
Craig
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Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I agree that it probably will hold up, but I also would be too paranoid. I replaced mine with two shiny assemblies from the dealer parts counter. Cost? $221 Oh, and I needed a new oil cooler too: $307
I also wouldn't be comfortable with a DIY hose, I would be driving with one eye on the oil pressure gauge all the time. The correct hoses are too cheap to mess around with anything else.
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  #20  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
hold on. how much pressure is the oil in the cooler under? isn't it just the oil that goes into the pan? if so, there is no real pressure there. if it's in the circuit after the filter, but before the passages in the motor, then sure lots of pressure possible, but I don't know. anyway, if it is under severe pressure, (cause MB's Oil Pump is a MASSIVE pump that really puts out some pressure) is the hose 300Working PSI, or is it a max burst of 300?

I believe tha max oil pressure the oil pump puts out is around45 PSI. I also believe that you are correct in saying that the oil from the cooler dumnps back into the pan and that there should be even less pressure in the cooler.
the hose has 300 PSI W.P. printe on it W.P. = working pressure.
On the GoodYear web site they have the spec sheet for all of their hoses. On of the uses for the hose was low pressure hydraulics.
Also the person I bought the hose from on Ebay sells this same hose for use in the after market oil coolers that he sells. GoodYear Insta-Grip.
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  #21  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Depends on the car, my SD wasn't worth the time or money to me. A rusted junker is a rusted junker regardless of what you do to it.
Yeah, I paid $2,000 for my 84 300D and it has enough rust (only 2 spots on the exterior of the car) that I don't think it would have passed some of the state inspectins. Out here in CA they don't have safety inspections. The engine and the trans seem strong so I think it was worth the money but not much more than that.
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I believe tha max oil pressure the oil pump puts out is around45 PSI.
False.
the gauge only goes to approx 45psi, but the pump will put out in excess of 100psi, enough to burst steel lines in the case of something obstructing it.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #23  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
If you really can't afford $100 (for the two lines) to spare for the longevity of your motor, maybe you should drive something else. No way I'd let that be under my hood.

Buying a car you can’t afford is appears to be an American tradition.
The cost was: 8 clamps at $2 each + tax and 2 feet 2 inches of hose at about $3 per foot. So the cost was about $20 in materials for the job. (I forgot to add 1 tube of silicone sealant at the 99 cent store.)
I think that it is not just the cost that with me. I used my skills to save myself some money and to beat the system. Some people feel good when the buy something I get a better and longer lasting feeling when I fix something. Of course there is some slight risk involved but I believe that it is worth it.
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  #24  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:39 PM
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I think it looks like a good job.

I like it and I think I am going to do mine the same way.
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  #25  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:31 PM
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I know of a business in the area that does nothing but repair hydraulic lines on heavy equipment. Plus the biz is mobile(couple box trucks with a mini shop in it). I've seen them replace oil lines on big rigs at the truck stop with high quality work.
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  #26  
Old 11-12-2007, 02:52 PM
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I think the oil going to the cooler is from the bypass section of the filter housing, and then returns to the pan....I am not sure on that though. If so, the pressure in the cooler lines would be relatively low.
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  #27  
Old 11-12-2007, 03:49 PM
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It is too hard to get a picture of the oil flow path to show up clearly on this site with the size limits. But, the flow path to the oil cooler is from the oil pump through a thermostat in the filter housing, to the annulus around the outside of the entire filter. When the thermostat is closed in the direction to the oil cooler, the flow is directed straight to the annulus around the oil filter, where it pressurizes the lines to and from the oil cooler to the cold oil pressure at the pump outlet, minus losses from the pump to the filter housing. I think that pressure can get pretty high. There is a bypass "relief" valve in the system and I am not sure what that is set at. But in general, there is substantially more than 45 psi at the outlet of the pump under all circumstances, especially when you are moving and the gage in the dash cluster is pegged. Jim
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Owned:
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  #28  
Old 11-12-2007, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
It is too hard to get a picture of the oil flow path to show up clearly on this site with the size limits. But, the flow path to the oil cooler is from the oil pump through a thermostat in the filter housing, to the annulus around the outside of the entire filter. When the thermostat is closed in the direction to the oil cooler, the flow is directed straight to the annulus around the oil filter, where it pressurizes the lines to and from the oil cooler to the cold oil pressure at the pump outlet, minus losses from the pump to the filter housing. I think that pressure can get pretty high. There is a bypass "relief" valve in the system and I am not sure what that is set at. But in general, there is substantially more than 45 psi at the outlet of the pump under all circumstances, especially when you are moving and the gage in the dash cluster is pegged. Jim
Thanks for the Info.
What do you think the oil pressure might be in the oil cooler?
I don't believe it is going to burst my 300 PSI working pressure hose.

Last edited by Diesel911; 11-13-2007 at 12:57 AM.
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  #29  
Old 11-12-2007, 10:15 PM
Wayne
 
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A previous owner of my S350D did (or had done) the hatchet job on one of the transmission cooler lines. Took awhile to trace down the leak, nothing happened, just made a nagging mess. Both lines from the Benzbin with shipping were less than 50 bucks, lost a few ounces of fluid and took maybe half an hour during an oil change. Just can't see the effort of rigging a hose when the cost isn't that great, but the results can be a real disaster.

Wayne
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  #30  
Old 11-12-2007, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrench56 View Post
A previous owner of my S350D did (or had done) the hatchet job on one of the transmission cooler lines. Took awhile to trace down the leak, nothing happened, just made a nagging mess. Both lines from the Benzbin with shipping were less than 50 bucks, lost a few ounces of fluid and took maybe half an hour during an oil change. Just can't see the effort of rigging a hose when the cost isn't that great, but the results can be a real disaster.

Wayne
It is common for people to successfully add on oil or transmission coolers to their car, trucks and motorcycles. (I am fortunate enough to already have the oil cooler setup present on my vehicle.)
Any time you work on something there is a potential for something to go wrong.
There is a tread about how much of a PITA it is to change the oil cooler hoses. In that thread several people said they had to replace their oil coolers that got damaged unscrewing the hoses from them.
When I unscrewed the top one on mine 3 of the 6 threads striped. I sure did not want to try removing the bottom one and have to replace the complete oil cooler.
As it is I don’t see what could go wrong with the job I did. 2 clamps are holding each hose end to the tubing so I don’t believe that they are going to slip off. The hose that I used is not heater hose or fuel line it is made for low pressure hydraulic use. I just don’t think there is much risk involved.
I do understand that what I did is not something everyone might want to do.
I posted the thread as I was curious to see if anyone else was interested. So far one person said they already did it and one said they want to.
Best wishes.

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