If one end of a small diameter stainless steel wire. Is inserted through under the crimp Piece before crimping. With the ends secured after installation. it should be enough of a safety wire setup. Perhaps not needed for years but at some point it may have to function.

At the price of pre made lines that mastercool crimping tool is great.

The AC crimps are termed "ferrules". My 300D mostly used ones with the ferrule integral with the barbed fitting, which might be Coll-O-Crimp brand (patented?). Those can be harder to cut-off since also welded to the fitting. You can just hacksaw a ring around the OD to leave a disk of metal on the fitting. I don't know what threaded fittings M-B uses on the AC, oil cooler, and trans cooler hoses, perhaps something metric and hard to source in U.S., thus must re-use them. On my 300D, most ferrules are thick steel so harder to cut, but angling a hacksaw or grinder in works, plus prying with screwdrivers and hammers, securing it in a vise. You can get new ferrules in steel or aluminum. The steel is thinner gage than M-B used. Most modern cars have aluminum ferrules, so should work.

Only buy AC hose marked "barrier", which is needed for newer refrigerants like R-134A and R-1234yc. It has a liner which I think is Viton, so should be fine for engine oil. It also works for R-12, which flows with hot mineral oil, so "should work". Viton lasts almost as long as nylon and Teflon. If you want a smaller size hose, look for "reduced barrier". Some of the crimps in the Master-Cool set interchange, like they are marked that the #6 die also works for #8 reduced hose & ferrules (forget). I used the #10 dies for #12 reduced for the suction hose in my M-B cars, though not marked for that. Thought "should work" after checking hose and ferrule sizes in catalogs. You can also buy special "reduced" dies, but pricey.

Looks like ykobayashi has at least 1 more die than me, so a great price if $150. I planned to resell my Crimp Set after use, but like a hammer I keep finding things to use it on. It works best in a vise, but might be used in-car in a few places with a big wrench and 4 hands. When I had to re-do a hose at the AC compressor, I couldn't fit the Crimper in there, so used 2 Oeticker "stepless ear" clamps and oriented the ears 180 deg apart for best seal. The hose wasn't leaking, but I had messed up the factory tube in bending to match a Sanden. You need to research catalog dimensions to see what Oeticker clamps work. PEX ferrules at Home Depot are another possibility but also need checking dimensions.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Zooming in I can see I used #12 5/8” Goodyear Galaxy 4826. I recall it was expensive but you only need a short piece. In my crimper I used the dies for #12.

They came out so nice. Very heavy hose. Thanks for the suggestion years ago Bill.

The new prebuilt hoses are expensive. And I’ve heard the aftermarket ones are of poor quality now. They get awful ratings online. So I was motivated to find a new type. Hose + tool came out to $200 which at the time was competitive with prebuilt hoses. But not anymore. $200 is a great deal.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Do you remember the hose size?

I have used 5/8 regular hydraulic hose found at any hose shop. I have also used #12 A/C hose with my Mastercool crimper. The A/C hose is much less forgiving, and must be the proper length, and the natural curve of the hose oriented correctly. The disadvantage to using the A/C hose crimper, is that the entire hose assemblies have to be out of the car. With the other systems, the ferules can be cut off with the hard lines still in the car, and the hose replaced and clamped on with the various kinds of clamps. The last set I did (just last week), I used the 5/8 hydraulic hose with modified A/C hose ferules (I had to drill out the holes to fit over the barbs). They look and work great!

Attached Thumbnails

 

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

That info must have been from early in my thread. On my 84 300D with the OM 617.952 Turbo Diesel Engine my actual maximum oil pressure is 97 psi. The maximum possible Oil pressure is supposed to be 110 psi and that is when the Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve is fully open.

On that Engine the Oil Cooler Hose is 15mm inside diameter. The 5/8" hose I originally used is not a good fit.

Belmetric sells the correct Oil Cooler Hose and another member said he got it cheaper from a Posch Dealer. It is generally sold in 1 meter lengths which more then you need.

These are numbers that appear on the hose itself.
The Choline-2633 hose is the same Hose used on many of the factory built Oil Cooler hoses. The size in the hose is listed as .1300-15X23-3. The 15 is the inside diameter in mm and the 23 is the outside diameter. I don't know what the -3 means.

On the hose you will see CHOLINE-2633. 1300-15X23-3
The Choline part number is sometimes listed as 2633.1300

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

One tip, cut the upper hose 1" longer than the factory did (15" vs 14" as I recall), to keep it further away from that evil power steering belt which likes to cut it when the motor mounts sag (another issue in these cars).

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Hydraulic hose usually has steel wire embedded in the rubber for strength. I recall that 1-wire hose is rated ~3000 psig. I only used it for the high-pressure power steering hose (can be rebuilt w/ hand tools as fittings unscrew w/ wrench, google). You need to use an abrasive cut-off saw on hydraulic hose. I recall that M-B used hose w/o wire for power steering (search my post years ago). AC hose should suffice since rated ~500 psig and for hot oil, whereas max pressure in the oil cooler hoses is probably <100 psig, but hydraulic hose should let you sleep soundly. You can buy on ebay or at Tractor Supply if one of those cool stores in nearby.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

In a previous post I mentioned that the ID of the hose for my 84 300D 617.952 is 15mm. I bought mine at Belmetric in one-meter lengths, but another member said Porsch dealers sell if for less. The hose is made by choline.

Again, I don't know if the 240D uses the same sized of hose.

Info from a past thread: "Belmetric sells the correct Oil Cooler Hose and another member said he got it cheaper from a Posch Dealer. It is generally sold in 1 meter lengths which more then you need.

These are numbers that appear on the hose itself.
The Choline-2633 hose is the same Hose used on many of the factory built Oil Cooler hoses. The size in the hose is listed as .1300-15X23-3. The 15 is the inside diameter in mm and the 23 is the outside diameter. I don't know what the -3 means.

On the hose you will see CHOLINE-2633. 1300-15X23-3
The Choline part number is sometimes listed as 2633.1300"

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/205012-cheap-oil-cooler-hose-replacement-18.html#post4157251

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Only issue I’m finding with hydraulic hose -specifically Gates 10RLA 5/8- is that it’s only rated for 212f which seems kind of crazy. I don’t think that’s nearly adequate for oil temps -is this what people are using?

https://www.austinhose.com/itemdetail/GA10RLA

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Hey Shern,

I can only guess (mechanical engineers chime in please) that the rating is a combination of pressure and temperature. The Hydraulic hose maybe rated lower temp because it is the temperature it can reach before it fails at some horribly high pressure seen in hydraulic installs.

Take for example this stuff. It has a higher temp rating but I think it has a lower pressure rating than your hose referenced.

https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/transmission-oil-cooler-hose.p.3289-000000-000001.v.3319-04056.html

Again just a theory here. There’s working pressure, burst pressure, max temperature etc. and I think they’re all kind of related in the specs. A read of the Parker Hose or Gates site my be enlightening.

The AC hose I used has a surprisingly high temperature rating. It also has some kind of super chemical resistant liner that you can really feel - almost like plastic tubing on the inside. But at the end of the day AC hose sees kind of different conditions than oil cooler line.

Maybe we are over thinking it. I just did what Rollguy and BillGrissom did and never looked back till now. I’m really happy with my cooler lines.

ETA. -also it appears that Gates hose you reference has a 1/8” wall thickness. Pretty thin.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

I originally used 5/8ths hose and it was too sloppy for mine. I coated the nipples with silicon sealant and tightened down the clamps good. When I got the right sized hose, I used that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That means SAE 10RLA, which is a rating, for various sizes. 212F sounds too low. The Aeroquip GH134-12 hose I used is rated 500 psig (2000 psig burst), 275 F (attachment). The internal barrier is "polyamide veneer tube", which is a nylon. Should be compatible with oil since nylon is used for gasoline, plus AC systems have oil. I have seen some rubber hoses rated to 300 F, but usually very high-pressure wire type which is overkill.

Attached Files

Aeroquip GH134 AC hose.pdf (382.8 KB, 62 views)

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Here's a link to the type of hose clamps I plan on using on both my diesels (617NA & 617A). I bought several sizes of these clamps already and they look much more capable than other clamps I've seen.

https://www.industry-plaza.com/worm-gear-hose-clamp-for-heavy-loads-p112967105.html

I'll share the hose type I bought as soon as I can as well.

Any thoughts on my plan?

-Chris

I'm sure those T-type smooth hose clamps will suffice. As comparison, most after-market AC systems in the 1970's (dealership, K-mart, Sears, Western Auto) used worm-screw hose clamps which rarely leaked, indeed the hoses had to be cut and peeled off the nipples, and AC runs at much higher pressure than your oil cooler hoses. Notice that the gasoline fuel lines on cars since the late 1990's are mostly nylon tubing heat-shrunk over a rippled nipple with no clamp (similar to the low-pressure lines in my 1985 300D) and those run up to 60 psig.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans