Help needed with rotten SLS lines? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chad300tdt · #16 11-17-2007, 10:12 AM

Yes, I will be using www.fedhillusa.com since the member that helped me with the tip also recommended this place. I have to call and see how much the tool rental is. If it's too much, "Old Pokey" said he got one off Ebay for about $40. I would be happy to take pics along the way and post them. Give me a week or two.

Chad300tdt · #17 11-17-2007, 12:57 PM

I just ordered the stuff I need to fix the lines from Ebay(autopartsmart).

2 - 6mm x 30" straight lines
2 - unions
1 - metric bubble flare tool kit with bender and cutter

Total=$85.17 and will be here sometime this week. Not as nice as FedHill but functional and more reasonably priced and I get to keep the tool for future needs.

JimSmith · #18 11-17-2007, 01:28 PM

I just addressed a fuel line leak in a similar location, but I was not about to drop the rear suspension to get to the same locations. I just cut the line out and replaced it with rubber hose, inside another rubber hose for abrasion protection and routed it along the fixes suspension supports with tie wraps, then double clamped it at each end. Are you going to re-route the lines or actually try to get them back into the same locations? Jim

Chad300tdt · #19 11-17-2007, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimSmith

I just addressed a fuel line leak in a similar location, but I was not about to drop the rear suspension to get to the same locations. I just cut the line out and replaced it with rubber hose, inside another rubber hose for abrasion protection and routed it along the fixes suspension supports with tie wraps, then double clamped it at each end. Are you going to re-route the lines or actually try to get them back into the same locations? Jim

I am planning to cut the rotted sections out and slip the new pieces into the same spots. I don't think it will be tough to do since I won't be dealing with very long pieces. I'm going to put the unions to the clean side of the bracket in the pics and reuse the SLS valve fittings.

Chad300tdt · #20 12-02-2007, 03:31 PM

I ran into some minor setbacks this weekend.

I removed the SLS valve from the bracket to replace the 5 o-rings inside and the height adjustment linkage piece was rotted and crumbled away from the SLS lever arm (replacment part will be at the dealer parts window for pickup Wednesday - $45).

I was removing the accumulators to gain more room under the car since I am replacing them anyway and saw another section of rotted line under one going further toward the front of the car. I will have a 25' coil of 6mm line here by Wednesday ($36) and I can use the fittings from the straight lines I bought before and make the splice further toward the front of the car which will give me more room to use the flare tool.

I also had the opportunity to learn the proper technique for loosening a flare nut by doing one improperly and stripping the nut for the 4.75mm line from the SLS valve to the accumulator on the right side

A new line will be ordered from the dealer tomorrow ($19)

. Proper placement of the flare nut wrench and impact is the only way to keep those small tube nuts from stripping while loosening.

So far this has been a very enlightening experience. Seeing the inside of the SLS valve and all the components of the suspension and hydraulic line connections has really helped me have a better understanding of how it all works. I also was able to verify that BOTH my accumulators were collapsed inside and the SLS valve WAS leaking. I can see now that a base pressure in the system helps maintain resting ride height along with the springs. A leaking valve and holes in the lines won't allow that.

I don't forsee any other setbacks but will continue to post any problems I encounter or mistakes I make so others can know what to look for and avoid.

Cost so far:

Previous line and flare tool purchase: $85.17
O-rings for SLS Valve rebuild: $5
Height Adjustment linkage: $45
25' coil of 6mm line: $36
2 accumulators (101.95 each): $203.90
Fresh OE fluid: $28.90
New filter: $9.93
New line with fittings for accumulator since I stripped a fitting: $18
Metric Flare nut wrench set: $30

TOTAL: $461.90 (I don't think this is too bad)

OldPokey · #21 12-02-2007, 05:38 PM

For future reference, Maryland Metrics in Baltimore is another source for line and compression fittings. They did not have the pipe nuts, however!

Chad300tdt · #22 12-17-2007, 02:27 PM

My wagon is still on the ramps

There is a reason the shops charge so much to repair the SLS. Replacing accumulators is easy, repairing the SLS valve is is a little harder due to the small o-rings, repairing the lines has been frustrating. My original thinking was, no problem, cut out the rot, splice in the new sections, and done.

To that thinking I must now add, make the cuts in the lines perfectly square, file off all the hardening, make repeated attempts at functional bubble flares, and try to make accurate, kink-free bends with awkward, giant bending pliers. Finally, deal with feelings of wishing I had saved up for someone else to do this job.

When working on anything older I expect to find the unexpected. Adding to the list of unexpected is my leaking fuel expansion tank ($120 from the dealer - will be here tomorrow). I hope to have everything wrapped up on Wednesday so I can start doing the oil cooler lines.

I miss driving my car.

Dee8go · #23 12-17-2007, 02:30 PM

Mine was replaced with gas shocks when it rotted out. That was before I got it, so I don't know what the ride felt like before. It's a little on the stiff side now.

Chad300tdt · #24 12-17-2007, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

Mine was replaced with gas shocks when it rotted out. That was before I got it, so I don't know what the ride felt like before. It's a little on the stiff side now.

One of the reasons I love these wagons is the way they handle due to the SLS. Other wagons I've had felt bouncy and had more roll. I know John took yours out when they found the same rot in your wagon. My mission is to get the SLS working again no matter how long it takes me.

Luckily, I'm able to deal with not having a car to drive.

kerry · #25 12-17-2007, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

My wagon is still on the ramps

There is a reason the shops charge so much to repair the SLS. Replacing accumulators is easy, repairing the SLS valve is is a little harder due to the small o-rings, repairing the lines has been frustrating. My original thinking was, no problem, cut out the rot, splice in the new sections, and done.

To that thinking I must now add, make the cuts in the lines perfectly square, file off all the hardening, make repeated attempts at functional bubble flares, and try to make accurate, kink-free bends with awkward, giant bending pliers. Finally, deal with feelings of wishing I had saved up for someone else to do this job.

When working on anything older I expect to find the unexpected. Adding to the list of unexpected is my leaking fuel expansion tank ($120 from the dealer - will be here tomorrow). I hope to have everything wrapped up on Wednesday so I can start doing the oil cooler lines.

I miss driving my car.

Would it be easier to buy cheap aluminum tubing, get it bent to the right angles and then try to copy it with the steel?

Why not epoxy and fiberglass cloth on the expansion tank? $120 seems pricey.

Dee8go · #26 12-17-2007, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

One of the reasons I love these wagons is the way they handle due to the SLS. Other wagons I've had felt bouncy and had more roll. I know John took yours out when they found the same rot in your wagon. My mission is to get the SLS working again no matter how long it takes me.

Luckily, I'm able to deal with not having a car to drive.

I'm sorry that I have no experience with which to compare. If Mercedes thought it was the way to go, I'm sure there was a good reason. Maybe I'll find out what it's like on my next MB. Hopefully, that will be a 560SEC, which DOES have the SLS.

Chad300tdt · #27 12-17-2007, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Would it be easier to buy cheap aluminum tubing, get it bent to the right angles and then try to copy it with the steel?

Why not epoxy and fiberglass cloth on the expansion tank? $120 seems pricey.

I used the old lines to match the bends near the SLS valve. Since I'm not dropping the subframe, the other bends have to be done under the car after the lines are threaded through.

I thought about trying to fix the expansion tank, but even the nipples at the bottom are broken and in my weakened emotional state I ordered it.

Chad300tdt · #28 12-17-2007, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

I'm sorry that I have no experience with which to compare. If Mercedes thought it was the way to go, I'm sure there was a good reason. Maybe I'll find out what it's like on my next MB. Hopefully, that will be a 560SEC, which DOES have the SLS.

I've thought of your wagon and John's words frequently during this repair.

mobetta · #29 12-17-2007, 08:04 PM

keep at it, the SLS is a wonderful thing to have. I think when i have to mine, I will prolly drop thhe subframe.

Chad300tdt · #30 12-17-2007, 09:03 PM

I thought about dropping the subframe, but was already too far into doing it this way to stop. If I were to drop the subframe, I would replace the full length of the lines without splices. I just need to tighten the connections, put the right accumulator back in place, put the height adjustment linkage on, fill, bleed and adjust.

... And put in the new expansion tank.