I was just wondering if you had your suspension up to spec, like in perfect condition what could you do to make my car a better handling car. Now i know that these cars were not sport cars but something alittle better would be nice. is there anything that can be upgraded on the suspension other than lowering springs.

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http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...titled-1-3.jpg
1981 300d

Thicker sway bars from the 300TD, metal W115 sway bar links, 15" alloy wheels from a W126 (205/60R15) and give the front wheels just a hair negative camber.

Did you get in on the Vogtland Group buy?

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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

no i didn't get the chance to because i was a little low on money. Some day i will probably just get some custom springs, the way i want them to be. Oh well, thats for another day. and thanks ForcedInduction for the good information. I knew that there was some parts that could be used from other vehicles but just didn't know from which one. thanks.

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http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...titled-1-3.jpg
1981 300d

Well you could fit some Porsche wheels, but then you'd need Porsche hubs. So you fit Porsche hubs, they require Porsche brakes, and Porsche wishbones. Then you'd have to change the chassis because the wishbones wouldn't fit, you'd also need Porsche springs and dampers, and once the chassis was changed you'd have to replace the engine, shell, and interior, for Porsche parts.

Or you could just buy a Porsche.

The rear sway bar is not from the TD's it was special order for limos, ambulances and police vehicles. I would vote for Bilstein HD's, coupe springs, wider tires and the thinnest spring shims that keep you in spec on camber. This was the setup that I had in my old car that just about fantastic. I have to say that the vogtland springs make my car ride on rails, there are some s curves that are fantastic.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Doesn't "camber" mean leaning in on the top? I'm just asking. I don't know. If that's right, why would larger diameter wheels affect the camber? Wouldn't any camber off of dead center cause uneven tire wear?

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Tire size would not change camber. 205/60R15 is less than 1% different than the stock tire diameter. However, it has less sidewall rubber for less flex in corners and it is wider for more grip.

Negative camber will make it wear on the inside but it can significantly reduce understeer.

Larger diameter wheels are not connected with wanting or needing neg camber.
Neg camber is the top of the wheels closer together, and a slight neg camber helps the rear tires stay on the pavement in cornering. I am not a proponent of messing with front wheel camber but it might be something someone uses I just don't think it will help that much. Its the rear end coming around I would work on first.

For a car with wide wheels on the rear one wants few degrees negative for better handling and this lowers the wear on the outer edges of the tire. You see Porsches squatting down in the rear with something like 4 or more degrees neg camber. Rear Camber isn't adjustable on the 123 anyway so forget that.

Larger wheels with a reduced sidewall to keep the same (or approx the same) speedometer reading gives better tire response because the sidewalls are shorter and flex less than the taller OE tires on a 14 in wheel.
I vote for the wheel change above all because this also allows you to select from a better choice of tires, and those with sportier response.
HD shocks are the next thing to do if your after better handling but be aware that you are going to lose a lot of the overall comfort as a trade off for better handling. A 123 with all new suspension bushings and the normal "comfort" Bilstein shocks will handle quite well and still feel like a "luxury" car.
If the front sway bar would have been easy to change I probably would have tried that but its a huge PITA.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

I'd buy a BMW and enjoy the ride of my car.

But for a W126 I'd hunt for some AMG parts, finding an AMG in a junk yard would be gold. It will be hard and expensive but possible.

Or if it was that important just buy an AMG model, but again they are very expensive. For a 560SEL with the full AMG makeover, suspension, body kit, engine, interior, in good shape your looking at $30k+/-. And it will still be a pig compared to what else you can get for $30k, M3, NSX, 911, 308, ect.

A W123 is never going to be a sports car, enjoy it for what it is.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

A W123 280e euro with dual fuel injection per cylinder and a 5 speed manual is a FAST car....my dad's dad had one back in Germany, a NEW one....he said it was a land rocket. (My dad got to drive it sometimes) He said it'd effortlessly and quickly top 150mph. Wshew. And, he said you could watch the fuel gauge move while doing so.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

By modern standards they are slow, only 185hp if my memory serves me. A 4cy Accord produces much more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQW9a0qTCsA&feature=related

They do ok though, MB usualy gears their cars really well.

They did race them, looks like they stuck a big V8 in them, probably an M117. Then stripped it and dropped the suspension. Probably some custom stuff their.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X5oglHaLV8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMA5cQwn3nI&feature=related

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJyC_lugMJw
Here is an AMG W126 that one of our forum members owns. I'd sell my soul for that car, it has the same interior as my SDL, and three times the hp.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Put some sticky tires on it. I have Donlop A2s on mine and can not get them to squeal. It has lots of body roll though. T-walgamuth has a 280E with slicks that he auto-x races and does fairly well. For the size, weight and era these cars handle quite well.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

If you want it to handle better, you need to gnereally make the suspension stiffer. That would include new shocks, stiffer springs, stiffer sway bars, and stiffer tires. You also would want to lower the ride height (and thus cneter of gravity), usually with shorter springs, and possibly a shorter wheel/tire combo.

Camber is important because as you turn, the tires on the opposite side decamber as the weight transfers. When the tires decamber, the tire contact patch (tire/road connection) distorts and the tire sidewall deflects (end result of that it loss of traction). Adding a bit of negative camber will not affect wear all that much (most irregular tire wear is caused by the toe setting).

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1984 300TD