300d crank case bearings are shot... - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TheDon · #16 12-06-2007, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

If you recently sold the car then it is their problem unless you offered some kind of written warranty. If you didn't then it was sold as-is and once they took possession its up to them to fix any problems with the vehicle, not yours.

Crank bearings are a MAJOR repair and its extremely unlikely that it only needs the bearings. As written said, expect $3000 - $4000 in parts and labor at a minimum.

for another 1500 you can get a crate engine from MB

#17 12-06-2007, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

for another 1500 you can get a crate engine from MB

Actually, they quoted me almost $7K for a crate engine.

Johnhef · #18 12-06-2007, 10:50 PM

At this point it'd be easier (and cheaper) to locate a used engine and swap it.

TheDon · #19 12-06-2007, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

Actually, they quoted me almost $7K for a crate engine.

really? an issue of the star from may 2006 lists one at $5700

P.E.Haiges · #20 12-06-2007, 11:12 PM

barry,

Even a red "idot" light would be better than an oil pressure gage when the oil pressure drops to zero. Who can stare at an oil pressure all the time when he/she is driving? The perfect solution would be to have both an oil pressure gage and a red light or buzzer.

Strange, MB can install a buzzer to indicate U left the lights on but not a buzzer for no oil pressure. How much damage will it do if U leave your lights on compared to how much damage will be done if U run the engine without oil pressure?

P E H

300SDog · #21 12-07-2007, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnhef

At this point it'd be easier (and cheaper) to locate a used engine and swap it.

Yep even one with 250k+ miles in running condition would be easier to deal with.

Hey danno, is the girl dating the mechanic?? Assessment of *just* needing bottom end bearings and oil pump reeks of BS. I guess everybody's taking for granted that wrist pins, rings and bores are fine with zero scorching of camshaft stantion bearings too. Sounds like a boat mooring anchor to me.

#22 12-07-2007, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

really? an issue of the star from may 2006 lists one at $5700

Wow, was that from a specific dealer or some kind of direct deal? I would be curious to hear the details if you can find them. Of course the dollar is probably weaker than it was in may 06.

Diesel911 · #23 12-07-2007, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnhef

At this point it'd be easier (and cheaper) to locate a used engine and swap it.

Used engine is a more resonable and fair idea.
However, It is a must to determine the cause of the failure if you can. The new owner could have done something to cause the failure.
Did the owner do an oil change and for get to put oil in and drive off??? Look at the oil if it looks new he may have dumped oil in after it siezed up. You can take an oil sample and have it analyzed for metal. If no metal in the oil he dumped the oil in after the failure.

engatwork · #24 12-07-2007, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Crankshaft bearings (rod and main) can be easily replaced once the oil pan is removed. The big problem is if the crankshaft journals are damaged. This can only be determined by an inspection of the crankshaft that requires the rod and main bearings be removed. If the crankshaft journals are damaged, the crank must be removed and reground.

Problem is you can't replace the bearings without removing the crank and while you are in there why not go ahead and freshen up the rear main seal and then you find other stuff you "may as well do" while you are in there. There goes the budget

.
The most economical way to do it is to swap it out with a good used engine.

#25 12-07-2007, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Problem is you can't replace the bearings without removing the crank

Yes you can.

engatwork · #26 12-07-2007, 06:08 AM

Will the ones on the block side "roll" out? I have never tried to do it that way and have always just removed the crank. The other reason I've always just gone ahead and removed the crank was to replace the upper 1/2 of the rear main seal.

Even an old dog can learn a new trick

.

babymog · #27 12-07-2007, 06:58 PM

If it's seized, the bearings are not coming out without a fight. The journals are definately going to need machining if it's seized, possibly bent rods, ...

I wonder if it's a bad diagnosis, possibly a vacuum pump failure.

P.E.Haiges · #28 12-07-2007, 09:50 PM

engatwork,

I agree with Forced that the main bearings can be removed with out removing the crankshaft. I have done it many times. Once U remove the lower bearing caps, the crankshaft will be loose enough that even bearings stuck to the crankshaft will come out.

Possible its the pistons that seized. I siezed the pistons in a Case Diesel Engine and the bearings were OK, but that was from overheating (no water in engine). New rings and valve job brought the engine back to like new condition.

However, if any of the main bearings have spun in the block, the block is probably NG.

P E H

FineOlBenz · #29 12-08-2007, 11:33 AM

Ok
I have a simple resolve. Where is the car? I may want it to put my good used 300turbo and trans in it if the price is right. Or you can come and get my engine and trans. The wife would like it gone trust me. I'm in Cental California

kerry · #30 12-08-2007, 11:38 AM

I'm afraid this is going to be one of those stories where we don't learn the ending like the girl with the TD whose mechanic tried to replace the SLS cylinders with regular shocks.