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#1
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Power door lock
Hi
I want to install a power door lock that works off a remote, i only want to install a unit on the drivers door lock and let the vacuum open the other 3 doors. anyone ever done this and what did they use. Thanks
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1979 300D. |
#2
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I had one installed, but it's a pretty simple setup. All you need is a keyless system that controls one electric actuator in the driver's door, and the vacuum system takes care of everything else. The actuator just needs to connect to the inner door and the little "clamp" connects to the lock lever to push it up and down. If you have the actuator in your hand and take apart the door, it's pretty obvious.
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#3
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I second what Craig said, its a pretty easy install. Get a kit on ebay with a couple actuators, (you will only need 1) and the brain unit/remotes. Easy install. Mine has been working great over a year.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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x3. You can even rig up a light flash feature or a short horn beep. Mine has been in for six months or so and is working great.
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Andrew 1989 Volvo 745- 202K |
#5
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I recently asked the question on another forum, and the best answer I got was a "Crime Stoppers" brand remote unit with one actuator from amazon.com (purchased separately). I am seriously considering installing this unit on my 190D; in fact, there is so much room in the trunk lid that I am thinking of installing the actuator there, connected to the trunk lock actuator arm, and putting the brains under the back seat.
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'98 E300 DT '87 190D 2.5 turbo RIP '92 S500 Sold '03 3.2TL-S A-Spec |
#6
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On the W123 it needs to go in the driver's door to control the other locks, don't know about the 190D.
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#7
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My lock system's control box has two auxillary relays for a "horn" and "trunk" button on my remote that I could use to control other things. I opted to not use them for anything, however, I did use the "light flash" relay hookup. Mine blinks the two front amber markers and the two rear markers twice when I unlock, and once when I lock.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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wouldn't it be possible to just electronically trip the door lock/unlock compressor in the trunk without using an actuator on the door?
I would think just putting a pair of relays on that feedback circuit from the driver's door would achieve it. One side would trip it to unlock, the other would trip to lock.
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#9
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Quote:
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#10
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Works great!
Quote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=260154144110 and was about $30 with shipping. The kit has a receiver module and four actuators. The front door actuators are more complicated (more wires) so I used one of the rear door actuators. Like you, I just wanted the remote to unlock the driver's door and let the vacuum system do the rest. I put the receiver under the dash, just cable-tied it to the wiring harness, then tapped into a 12-Volt line that is 'hot' at all times. I then threaded the wires through the chassis (using the existing rubber boot) into the driver's door. The wires in the kit have connectors that make them hard to thread through the rubber boot into the door. I cut off the connectors and soldered them back on after getting the wires into the door. I used a piece of stiff wire as a probe and poked patiently until it went through. Then I soldered the electrical wires to the stiff probe wire, put shrink tubing over it (yes, that was overkill) and pulled the wires through into the door. In the door, I played with various positions until I found a way to mount the actuator. Because the actuator ended up inside the door and behind the sheet metal, I wasn't able to take any pictures. It took several tries before I was happy with the installation and was sure it wouldn't get in the way of anything else. The actuator mounts below the door lock mechanism, down near the bottom of the door. Be careful using existing holes for mounting the actuator -- some of those holes are used to hold on the inner door skin! Note 1: The receiver draws about 10 milliamps (0.010 Amps) at all times but that's not enough to hurt the battery (along with all of the other things like the clock and the radio memory, etc.) unless you leave the car alone for a long time (a month or more) in which you should disconnect the battery anyway. Note 2: You could also put the receiver inside the door cavity and run a single 12 Volt wire into the door to power it. Either way, you'll have to run a wire or wires. I prefer to have the receiver under the dash where I can get at it more easily should any work ever be needed. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
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