Delivery Valve Seal
 

Anyone ever have to replace the o-ring/seal underneath the fuel delivery valve of an IP?

All it takes is a 30-point socket.

I did about a month ago, it was pretty straight forward. Remember to replace the copper washers (valve spring seats) at the same time.

Ok, Force & Shingle,

where did you get the socket and washers? Is this also called the seal ring?

Why did you get in to this? Was it leaking?

I may be way off
 

but this is what I just bought and used to replace the o-rings. It worked really well, and seems to be built ok. I'm sure there are better ones on the web, but most are still as pricey.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Injection-Pump-Socket-Engine-Parts-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ002QQitemZ120195137730

Also I don't know if it fits your engine.

I did mine the weekend after Thanksgiving. Pretty straightforward. Got my O-rings and copper washers from Rusty. Borrowed socket from a friend. Did each injector one at a time starting on #6 - 5 - 4-.... You must keep in mind the torque spec when tightening.
Goodluck

See the post by Nick above, he bought the El Paso socket for a much better price than I paid for my Hazet.

I got the washers from Seattle Injector Service; just phoned them and gave them the IP number (the most useful number for him was the Bosch number, which starts with 0400). They mailed me the washers and seals. You can always get it from Rusty through the link at the top of the page.

I had to replace mine because a couple of them were leaking.

MB Part No 000 074 1759
 

Item Number: 0000741759
Main Category: MB
Sub Category: Diesel Injection
Description: Seal ring, Injection Pump Delivery Valve (crush washer)
Weight: 0.030 (http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?qty=1&mfr=TYS&sku=0000741759&price=1.00)

I believe its this part.

Ditto what everyone else has said -- mine were leaking badly on the '87. Got my parts from the dealer, socket from same ebay source.

Fairly easy repair. Read up here first though. If you take too many parts outta there, you'll fubar your pump!

El Paso Tools is a good e-bayer. I've used him. I also have the socket that I used on my 606 engine. It's available for a small rental fee/deposit if you find out it will fit yours.

Yes, that is the 'copper washer', and you will need the delivery valve seal (O-ring) as well.

Other than going by the descriprion that its a 32 point socket, thats all I know. Obviously, mine is a 617. according to the El Paso site, their sockets fits a 617.

Do I really need an o-ring? I believe the o-ring being referred to is a rubber type that the 86 and newer cars require along with a metal washer. I went to the dealer today and looked at the blow-up of a W123 delivery valve. There is only ONE washer shown.

This blow up is from another thread in this forum....

Part 7f is the copper crush washer and 7h is the o-ring seal.

When the o-ring seal fails, diesel comes out the top of the IP.

The spring wears itself a 'home' position on the copper washer; if you remove the spring you need a new crush washer for the spring to seat properly.

617 589 01 09 00 Socket

Use/specification:
17 x 20 mm serrated socket, ½” square drive for removing and installing pressure valve holder on M / RSF and ERE injection pump.

Engines 601, 602, 603, 605.91, 606.91 /96, 615, 616, 617.91

http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/
One of the other threads had to above site for Mercedes special tools.

Replaced the delivery valve seal and copper o-ring. Got the spline socket from the dealer. Seal and o-ring from the local diesel injection specialist. Just gave them the Bosch Inj Pmp SN#. They had it all in stock for $2.58 a set.

Turned out to be a simple job. While I was at it, I wanted to replace the primer pump with the new Bosch pump. But I had a tough time unscrewing the fitting where the primary fuel filter goes in to. I just could not budge the 22mm hex fitting. Its a tight spot down there and the stubby combo wrench could not do it. Have to remove this fitting since its in the way of removing the old pump. But, since the old pump still works ok, I backed off from doing it.

Can't believe how easy the car starts now. It was 25 deg this morning and it started at first crank:). I believe its due to no more leak in the fuel and injection system.

Hijack alert!
I have had increasingly difficult starts, especially with a hot engine, and decreased fuel economy. I've replaced all the glow plugs, checked everything else for leaks, replaced the primer pump, and am thinking at this point it is the delivery valve seals, especially since I've been running a lot of biodiesel over the last year. Do these symptoms seem to all of you to confirm my guess? The top of the IP looks dirty, oily, but I wouldn't say it looks like it's just 'wet'.

If you have a leak on the delivery valve, you will know it as it will show fuel coming out of the leaking valve!! But you have to observe it when the engine is running. If its off, there is no leak.

However, fuel leak in the delivery valve would not normally cause hard starting. In my case (and I would say in most cases), air inside the IP and the lines will cause hard starting. Air in the lines purges when the engine starts but air in the IP will perpetuate the problem. The only way to remove air in the IP is to pump the primer pump untill you hear it make a buzzing sound. That means, you have vented the IP.

IMHO, its always good to start with the simple stuff first.

Hope this helps.

Absolutely agree, but it feels like I've done most of the 'simple stuff'. Also I'm reading your post, and it seems like you are saying that there could be air in the IP even after running the engine? Not sure that makes sense to me. Can you clarify?



Ben

Take it from me, the IP can start with air in it but only after xxx number of cranks - and then again it may not start. I did not know about air in the IP until I read the FSM. I was sort of pumping the primer just for the heck of it as I did not know what else to do. This is probably what made it start - I came close to venting it but not totally. Finally, I read the FSM and lo and behold, it says the IP has to be vented by the above procedure I explained. As soon as I did this, it started at first crank. If you have not tried it yet, what have you got to lose. Make sure you hear the buzzing (or squeaking) sound.

There is a tool rental program going on click on that thread I believe that 2 parsons were renting their socket.
The socket sells on Ebay for around $40 and you also have to pay shipping. 2 Ebay sellers Zdmak and El Paso tools. I also comes up for sale by private owners on Ebay.
The companies who support this site most likely also sell it also and might make a special effort to get it to you faster.

Pumped the *(&#@ out of the primer pump last night when it wouldn't start hot. No change. It really does act like it's not getting fuel. A spritz of WD40 in the intake and it starts right up - immediately. I'm still thinking somehow it's losing prime....fast and it's more prone to doing so the IP is heated up for sure. There's no air coming in from the incoming fuel side; I have a sight glass inline right before the injector pump. The delivery valve seals have been reported in other threads to cause this phenomenon, even without any major leakage. Where else could I be losing pressure or sucking air?

I just ordered the crush washers and o-rings to do this job. I have some leaking and a slight miss at idle that I hope to fix on my OM 603.

Any advice from those who have done this before? Also I want to confirm that the torque spec is 35NM.

Thanks.

Jim@fryerpower.com has vition delivery valve o-rings for replacements. They work well if you use biodiesel or veg oil. The copper washers only available from the dealer as far as I know. It's also a good time to replace your injector return lines, viton line is also available at fryerpower. Replacement is real straight forward, just keep everythiing real clean. I have the 30 point socket available also.

Wayne

Thanks Wayne. I ordered the socket too, cheap considering the savings vs. having someone else do it. I replaced the fuel return lines already. The IP is starting to really leak, probably due to age and the use in Cal of ULSD. I'm overdue for the project anyway.

Per the FSM, the tightening is 2-steps. Tighten to 30 and then to 35. As I discussed above, I did this on my 617 IP. Does not leak anymore. I believe it was the rubber washers that were bad but I replaced both.

Any injection repair shop will have it; just give them the Bosch pump number or serial number. I got mine from Seattle Injector Service.