Reverse grinds as i shift in to reverse on my 240d manual trans. I've found that if I shift into 2nd then with my foot still on the clutch it shifts smoothly into reverse. What do I have to do or replace to get it to shift smoothly into reverse again. Ray m

First thing I would do is bleed the clutch hydraulics.

I read that
a count of one second or two should get the gear stopped enough for a smooth shift.
If it doesn't I might have a clutch dragging a bit.
Is that easy to remedy. Ray

Syncro on it's way out?

Wait a second to shift into reverse from first or from a roll, that way if the syncro is bad or on it's way out then at least your input and output shaft are on the same page and not spinning at drastically different speeds- making it hard for the gears to and engage mesh properly. Me thinks?

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.:1982 300D "The Ambassador"- R.I.P:.
.:1987 300D 3.0 "Häns"- Current Whip:.
.:1967 F85 Oldsmobile "Grandpa"- Show And Go:.
.:1991 WS6 Firebird Trans-Am "Blackbird"- FOR SALE:.

First thing you should do, absolutely nothing.

That is normal operation because reverse gear does not have a synchronizer.

Standard procedure is to either start the car in reverse (clutch out of course) or shift into first or second, then go to reverse. This is far better than grinding the reverse gear to a stop every time.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Hmm.. Didn't know these were unsyncro'd gearboxes. Is it just reverse?

__________________
.:1982 300D "The Ambassador"- R.I.P:.
.:1987 300D 3.0 "Häns"- Current Whip:.
.:1967 F85 Oldsmobile "Grandpa"- Show And Go:.
.:1991 WS6 Firebird Trans-Am "Blackbird"- FOR SALE:.

All gear boxes lack synchro in reverse....at least all that I know of.

If you pause a second or two it should not grind going into reverse. As noted above if the clutch hydraulics are going and the pedal friction point has moved toward the floor, bleeding or replacing the clutch master and or slave may do the trick.

If the friction point is normal and has not shifted, the only other thing I know of would be a worn out pressure plate. Sometimes one or two fingers on the pp will wear off and allow the pp to sit cockeyed causing a drag. Then the only cure is a new pp.

and if that is done you will want to do a disc too, mill the fw, install new fw bolts and perhaps replace the pilot bearing and throw out bearing....may as well put in new shift linkage bushings while you are in there, and if your shifter is loose you may want to remove that and replace its bushing as well.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I'm trying to figure out if these gearboxes are totally unsyncro'd or a of sliding type. I know first/reverse aren't syncronized, but does 2nd and 3rd or 3rd and 4th have a syncro?

__________________
.:1982 300D "The Ambassador"- R.I.P:.
.:1987 300D 3.0 "Häns"- Current Whip:.
.:1967 F85 Oldsmobile "Grandpa"- Show And Go:.
.:1991 WS6 Firebird Trans-Am "Blackbird"- FOR SALE:.

Yes.


Just double clutch or pause when shifting into 1st and reverse.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Nearly all passenger had synch forward gears by 1960. Big trucks and race cars continue to have unsynched "crashboxes" to save on weight.

No reason to synch the reverse gear, cause there is only one and you should certainly be stopped B4 throwing in into R.

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I agree, on all my cars I have always shifted from another gear to reverse, old trick and preserves the gear box, good luck!