83 240D

The passenger rear wheel is completely locking up (total skid) when even the slightest of brake pressure is applied. The wheel then will not move until the car is shifted into reverse wherein it then travels in reverse just fine and when shifted back to drive, it now is no longer locked up.

I visually inspected the brakes and the rotor looks fine and both pads have plenty of life

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-Dan
1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester"

caliper maybe?

Definitely take the pads out and check the caliper.

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

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Sounds like the caliper is locked up. I don't think there's any real fix for them that is easy. I have a right rear caliper for sale, but it's for a 1991 300d, don't know if they differ from your model.

Jeff

Parking brake is dragging. The parking brake does not like reverse, and if the wheel is already dragging, the additional braking from the foot-brake could cause it to lock.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

What's the best diagnostic procedure for checking the caliper?


I have a friend who believes this could be a problem with the differential or the splined half shaft. Is that possible?

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-Dan
1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester"

It sounds like a stuck caliper or stuck parking brake. It is IMHO not in any way related to the diff or the half shaft.

I would check the pads. Occasionally when the pads get worn you will have a problem and if you install new pads the puck works in a different spot and all is well.

Most likely you will need a new caliper (or rebuilt) though. Or parking brake repair.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Well thankfully the problem has been resolved. No one would've guessed what it actually was (although I appreciate everyones efforts)

So several months ago I replaced a rusted rear trailing arm on the passenger side. I swapped the original rotor and caliper over to the new arm.

Fast forward to this week. Turns out, because I didn't apply new Loctite to the caliper bolts, one of the bolts CAME OUT on the road. The caliper was then pivoting freely. When driving without braking, the caliper would stay in position, but once the brakes were applied the caliper would swing out and contact the wheel itself scraping a nice fat groove through it. Well that was the problem. Luckily I had another replacement arm with bolts so I used those with some new Loctite and I was good to go

__________________
-Dan
1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester"

New wheel also?

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

New wheel wasn't necessary. Once this started happening I babied the car home using the parking brake to stop (was quite a spectacle) and that was it. Wasn't much damage done to the wheel, just a circle of ground metal where the caliper drug


Moral of this story is DO NOT NEGLECT LOCTITE APPLICATION

__________________
-Dan
1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester"

I would have the wheel inspected, it may not look like much damage was done, but they hold up a lot of weight, and handle a huge load, so any deviation from original, can seriously affect the wheel's ability to function.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
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