on a w123? I need to check out what's going on (probably brushes). I'm having a hell of a time getting it to come on when it's below 25 or so. After the car warms up, I can usually strike the console and get it to work, but it's kind of squirly. Thanks!

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1989 300E 144K

1984 300d Turbo 146k
**************.com Have Kit For 123 Heater Motor With Guide $118
Or Brushes And Guide $28.00 It Under The Pass Side Cover, Pull Off The Small 3 Screws Little Covers And You Will See The Phil Head Screws And 2 On Side Turn 45 Degrees

************** is a complete ripoff, avoid them at all possible times.

You probably just need to lubricate the bearings and clean the commutator. A few drops of 5W-30 oil on each bearing and use fine grit sandpaper to clean off the commutator contact strip and/or brushes.

Its easy after you remove the passenger side "knee" panel. Unplug the wiring harness and take out the 4 or 5 8mm screws, thats it, drops right out.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

On our W123 the problem was not the blower (it started not coming on either)....but the sensor on the t-stat on the engine. I grounded it out (ran a little wire from the connector to the Neg pole of the battery, and now it comes on right when I start the car. The temp switch is faulty....but at $61, I think we'll live with not having that feature....it heats up very quickly anyways.

Under normal operation that sensor keeps the blower from powering up till above 31C coolant temp, it then grounds the connection, telling the Clima to power up the blower. Thus you get warm air after a couple mins instead of a blast of cold air when you turn the key. It still works correctly on our SD's....for now....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I had the motor out, broken wire repaired and everything re-installed in about 45 minutes....woulda been quicker but my solder didn't want to adhere.

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

I don't like the blower assembly on the W123, looks like a pain to get apart vs a 126 assembly. Thankfully our blower is still working perfectly. My blower in my SD failed about a year after I got the car. Electrical burning smell and lack of air movement. Bought an after market one on eBay for $135, has been working great for years.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Cool. I wasn't sure if I had to remove the CCU and such. Going through the kickpanel sound much more simple. Also, could someone direct me toward a pictorial (if available) or a fairly precise thread on resoldering/reconditioning the CCU itself? Thanks!

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1989 300E 144K