Oil Path/Direction Diagram OM617?

[lg4mat]

I have a quick question as to how the oil flows.

Is there a diagram that shows the pathway of the oil in OM617? Oil pump, cooler, filter, etc. It seems as though I have seen a diagram on this forum sometime ago.

If you starve a OM617 of oil which cylinder is likely to go first #1 or #5? In terms of bearings at rod caps and mains. It is my understanding that #1 goes first.

[leathermang]

Ok, you might as well tell us the whole story...
I am sure there is a scan of the oil flow direction...in the archives...
Perhaps on a thread about a preoiler...

[lg4mat]

Scary day for me; Oil Loss - see this thread

Nothing gets by you guys. I was considering investigating with a look at the #2 rod cap bearing thru the oil pan hole. #1 looks too hard to get to. I have not posted updates to original post as I am waiting for parts to get things up and running. Would #2 really tell me anything? When I put it back would I need to plastigage? One mechanic told me #5 is the one I need to look at (impossible w/out motor removed). Another mechanic told me that #1 is first to starve of oil in flow. So, oil flow path diagram is desired.

[leathermang]

That link did not post.. so what thread did you tell about it in ?
What engine are we talking about ? I assume a 617.952 turbo ?
but I am not sure that will actually be definitive... I really suspect that number one is the critical one if it could happen and only harm one....

[lg4mat]

617.952 turbo. Yes. 1985 300d

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by lg4mat

617.952 turbo. Yes. 1985 300d

The filtered Oil comming out of the Oil Filter Housing goes into an Oil Gallery that runs the length of the Block at about the height of the top of the Timer Gear. It enters the block between the #4 and #5 cylinder; in the pic it looks closer to the #4.
From the main Oil Gallery the Oil Galleries for the Spray Nozzles to lubricate the pistons and the Oil Galleries going to the Main Bearing Journals branch off.
So it looks like #1 Cylinder/Main Bearing Journal is the one most far away from the Oil supply.

[lg4mat]

Thank you. I think this is what I am looking for.

My second question is concerning the removal of rod cap bearings.

If I pull #1 and #2 and all is well, can I just put them back (no plastigage) torqued to spec? I'm kinda new to getting inside the motor. Did it once before...

[leathermang]

I suggest you change out all the filters and oil...
and wire the IP lever to OFF...
and turn the engine over a few times with the starter until you have oil pressure registered...
and then start it....
I did not find the thread where you talked about what you did....
Did it stop due to you turning off the key.... or due to the oil being NOT there ?

[lg4mat]

Leathermang, try this Scary day for me; Oil Loss. Hope the thread posted this time. I will take your advice re: filter, IP

In a nut shell, 1985 300d ran at idle for 8-10 (I initially said maybe 5 minutes, but a phone call to mechanic during ordeal told me that this lasted 8 min. at least) minutes while oil was pumping out of top cooler line. I could not kill the car with key or STOP button. I finally removed fuel filter to kill the car. Afterwards, I found 1.5 qts. of oil left in the pan. Motor never knocked. This is why I would like to remove #1 and #2 rod bearings. If these look good I could sleep better.

[leathermang]

Ok...so we are talking idling....and YOU stopped it....
I stay with my original suggestion...
If you try looking at it and don't get it back on correctly you are in worse shape than before... and you do not look to be doing a complete rebuild...
given what you have said I doubt any damage was done....

[lg4mat]

I agree with you. I am sure I will get this car going next week and just forget about it. But, in the back of my mind I wonder how many miles I took off the car. Very tempting to peek at those bearings.

[leathermang]

The chance that by LOOKING at it you could actually make a more informed decision is pretty low in my opinion... thus I would not suggest you taking the effort and chance of not getting the caps back on straight, without moving the bearing, and to proper torque..
If it really bothers you just take the engine apart and rebuild it... but you will probably get another 200 k out of it...

[lg4mat]

Thanks for your input. I will keep the forum posted.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by lg4mat

Thank you. I think this is what I am looking for.

My second question is concerning the removal of rod cap bearings.

If I pull #1 and #2 and all is well, can I just put them back (no plastigage) torqued to spec? I'm kinda new to getting inside the motor. Did it once before...

While it looks like you might not be doing the above I will try to answer some of the Questions.
You do not need to use the Plastigage just to take a look; only if you want see what the bearing clearance is. If you use the Plastigage be sure to get it all off of the bearing or Con Rod Journal before your final assemble.
Any time a bearing cap is going to be removed you need to check if has been marked so that it can go back into the same position. You also need to see if they are marked differently.
Example: if some one replaced a Con Rod with another used one you could have 2 Con Rods with the same number.
If a New Con Rod was installed as a replacement it may not be numbered at all and there may be no match mark on the Bearing Cap to determine which side/position it is supposed to go on.
If it is my own vehicle I like to take a scribe, center punch or number and letter stamp set and put my own marks on. Unless, the factory ones are extremely clear and I can see them before I remove them.
Sometimes things are so gunked up with crud or for some other reason you cannot see the factory markings I like to mark them myself.