Go for it.

Let us know how you make out.

I generally just change pads til the rotors look too thin then replace them. I have tried turning them in the past but not with very good results.

It is my thought that with the 123 turbodiesels the solid rotors are just marginal for the weight of the car. I had an 82 300td and just could not keep the front rotors from warping.

If I knew then what I know now I would have upgraded to the (bolt on) vented rotors and calipers from the early 126 chassis.

I think the solid rotors are fine on a 240d.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I recently changed the rotors on my E320 because they were worn to the limit. The kind folks at Benz don't give us much extra material to turn.

You wouldnt believe what the TUV makes you go through to maintain a car there. Unbelievable.

W123 rotors are cheap, replace frequently.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

ok, let's see, the 123 rotor is approx 12mm thick, solid non vented rotor. there are three reasons to turn a rotor.
1. you over stressed the thing, and it warped, let's see, a warped rotor to turn, you will be removing material from part of the rotor, and not the other, making it kinda unstable...
2. the pads wore down too far, and made scoring on the rotor. Hmm, hook a damaged rotor into a lathe and take a carbide bit and grind off the high spots to even out the damaged rotor... sounds good, but the surface left is far from smooth, resulting in rapid pad wear, and polishing of the rotor surface and uneven surface from overheating... see condition 1...
3. the normal wear on the rotor left a ridge, and slight cracking and discoloration, causing the new pads to squeek, or would if you didn't turn it in advance. leaving a rough surface that rapidly polishes and overheats... see condition 2...
sense a pattern here?
IF by professionally turned, you mean with a lathe and hone, not a carbide bit... maybe, that would be OK, but I don't see a professional wearing out expensive hone stones on rotors, and only charging you 8.00...
nah, I gotta vote for the replacement rotor camp.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Second.

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83 SD

84 CD

I went to pick up my rotors for the Soob and asked the guy at the shop. He said something sticks in the back of his mind that you should not or could not turn MB rotors. (very reputable shop in business for over 30 years but you have to understand where I live. Hardly any MB around and the people that have them take them to the dealer)
I called the not so local MB dealer. The service tech said they don't even have a lathe in the shop. I asked if it was a dealer policy or a MB policy. He thought it was something about the integrity/softness of the metal used for the rotors. I question about aftermarket rotors.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R