I've got a line on an engine from a '78 240D that has been rebuilt. The person selling it bought it from some one else and has service records. She said that the engine didn't match her 240D and so she's selling it. She's asking $1,000.00. Saying that the engine doesn't fit sounds fishy unless her mechanic is really lazy. I offered $600.00, and she turned it down. My car needs at least $1,500.00 worth of paint and body work I was planning on getting done this year. Should I walk away from this, and just wait for a low mileage 240D to turn up to replace my '79 with?

Otto

Do a price search. If the miles and maintenance are verifyable, the $1000 may not be too bad. It would cost more to get one built by Metric Motors.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

I agree, a fresh rebuild costs closer to $5000 so a legitimate low mileage engine is probably worth at least $1000 (if you trust the seller's information). Of course you can buy a junkyard engine cheaper, but you don't know what you're getting.

I don't know, but i've never had a car body "give out" unless I drove it into a large object.

Nope.

All you have to do is unknowingly run it low on oil or coolant and you have a good body with an engine with a broken head or a rod hanging out the side of the block.

Benz motors are good but without coolant or oil they puke just like any other!

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The question wasn't have you "had" it, but have you "heard" of it.
We've seen many examples right here on the forum.
So, that gets swatted about 4 rows up into the stands......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

The not fitting part does indeed sound fishy. Inspect in person. Find out who did the rebuild and their reputation. If all seems kosher, give her the thousand.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Won't fit doesn't sound fishy to me. 115 616's and 123 616's are not directly interchangeable. Oil filter housing is differrent.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

your lucky you live in California like me!

there are cars and engines all around you. you just need to know where to look.
don't be looking for a low mileage engine... while this is a good rule of thumb when buying an engine. nothing is more accurate then a compression test!

If i were you and had 600$ to spend on an engine i would start by calling Silver Star. http://www.silverstarrecycling.com/ or call 800-783-4911
they might be a little more then 600$ but you can try and talk them down.
that is if they have one in stock.

the next bet it to look into the pick and pulls. you guys have some great ones int eh bay area. and i know for a fact there are a bunch of 204Ds in the yards here in sac. the trick is to get a compression tester and a battery and take them with you to pick and pull. start turning engines over until you find one with good compression. this is a lot of work... but end the end you can walk out of pick and pull with an engine for $180. that is what i paid for the 440 i bought for my Charger. that is cheap.

another source of an engine is a car... this is even more work then pick and pull. but their are cars out there with bad trannys and good engines being sold cheap. or cars that are wrecked. I know for a fact that pick and pull will buy the shell of a car for $120. so if you can get yourself a wrecked 240 with a good engine, sell the hulk after you pluck the engine out of it.

hop on craigslist they pop up every once in a while...

i'll keep my eyes open for a 616... i'm currently looking for a 617 turbo for my 240.


I wish you luck.

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as long as you have fuel, all you need is a jumper battery pack, and a jumper wire to get the engine to run to test it out while still in the junkyard.

First, undo the vacuum line from the shutoff valve.
Hook the jumper box up to the battery or where the battery used to be.
Jumper the glow relay to give the plugs power for about 10 seconds, then jump power to the purple wire in the distribution block on the rf inner fender.

Car should run.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350