OM606 engine (W210 E300D/TD) delivery valve seals - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

KarTek · #46 12-17-2008, 07:27 PM

The elements are going in the '98 when I finish the induction system. But I won't pollute this thread with that discussion. I'll start something in the performance section when I start on this experiment. I believe the elements came from Myna but they were hand carried here to the states and I'm going to pick them up in a week or so.

gsxr · #47 12-18-2008, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

The elements are going in the '98 when I finish the induction system. But I won't pollute this thread with that discussion. I'll start something in the performance section when I start on this experiment. I believe the elements came from Myna but they were hand carried here to the states and I'm going to pick them up in a week or so.

Oh wow, very cool. Please post a link here to your new thread! I'm very interested in this...

spock505 · #48 01-22-2009, 06:32 PM

Thanks Parrot for taking the time to post the 'how to', great detail and pics.

After a head rebuild I think this maybe the problem on my non starting OM 605 (non turbo) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=234609&page=18

Pretty much covered everything else and the Bosch engineer said the seals may have stuck open allowing fuel back and not maintaining enough pressure to crack the injector open.

Sounds plausible as car has a long history of standing not being used before my ownership, i also ran it on svo with a twin tank set up but some of the veg oil may have clogged it.

Do you think this maybe possible?

Thanks again,

David

l_turn9 · #49 10-28-2009, 04:39 PM

First, let me compliment you on an outstanding article! It is well written and artfully photographed.
There's 2 things I have questions about though. The MB Technical Data book calls for torquing the DV's in 3 steps. Torque to 30Nm then loosen, torque to 30Nm again and loosen, then final torque to 35Nm. Perhaps this applies to my 602 engine and not a 606 engine but I suspect it's an important step. I've heard it's possible to damage the IP if the DV's are torque'd improperly. Admittedly, MB doesn't make it easy to find these kinds of details.
The other comment is about cleaning the engine. I try to hose my engine down every 3rd or 4th car wash after spraying Simple Green on the non- electronic parts. This cleans the engine and makes working on it much easier and more pleasant. I highly recommend this treatment before tackling a project like this as it makes for a much more pleasant work area.

gsxr · #50 10-28-2009, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l_turn9

There's 2 things I have questions about though. The MB Technical Data book calls for torquing the DV's in 3 steps. Torque to 30Nm then loosen, torque to 30Nm again and loosen, then final torque to 35Nm. Perhaps this applies to my 602 engine and not a 606 engine but I suspect it's an important step. I've heard it's possible to damage the IP if the DV's are torque'd improperly.

You are correct - this 3-stage torque procedure should be used for all Bosch M-type pumps, used on all OM60x engines, including the OM606. Damaging the pump is possible if you over-torque the splined holder, but you'd really have to be a gorilla to apply THAT much torque. Hopefully anyone who does this job actually uses a torque wrench, and not a breaker bar, lol.

Quote:

Originally Posted by l_turn9

The other comment is about cleaning the engine. I try to hose my engine down every 3rd or 4th car wash after spraying Simple Green on the non- electronic parts. This cleans the engine and makes working on it much easier and more pleasant. I highly recommend this treatment before tackling a project like this as it makes for a much more pleasant work area.

I agree 100%. I use Gunk "Citrus" engine cleaner/detailer, available at your local McParts store for about $4 per can. It works quite well and doesn't stink nearly as bad as the usual (non-citrus) cleaners. Cleaning the engine, tranny, and steering gearbox throughly is the only way to identify all leaks, so you can fix them. I've got all my cars 95% leak-free, and I like it that way!

TMAllison · #51 10-28-2009, 05:35 PM

The torque procedure was supposedly updated to 35NM one time only.

Either seems to work.

Over-torqueing has been said to deform the milled alum body of the IP.

gsxr · #52 10-28-2009, 05:53 PM

Agreed. Since the 3-stage procedure is so simple, I figure it doesn't hurt. My guess is, it helps overcome any possible friction on the threads, and may help seat both the rubber O-ring as well as the copper washer. I replaced the DV seals on two different pumps recently and had no problems whatsoever. Both ran great afterwards, with no leaks.

l_turn9 · #53 10-28-2009, 06:33 PM

Hi There -
You replied about the torque procedure and that made me wonder if it's appropriate to put anything on the threads - like oil or diesel fuel? In other applications there seems to be some controversy on doing so. Some say the torque value is distorted by lubricating the threads while others say the torque is more accurate when lubed. In a location like this it may be tough to keep the threads dry if that's the way to go.

Any thoughts?

TMAllison · #54 10-28-2009, 07:46 PM

I used 3 separate rinse cups of D2 in an attempt to keep everything as clean as possible. You'll want some D2 lube to help get the oring over the VERY sharp threads so its going to be wet in my mind when put back together. Additionally, there's still fuel in each hole so I think it is unavoidable.

The next time I do mine I'll re-prime before putting reattaching the metal fuel lines back an attempt to dislodge more rubber debris, rahter than pump it through the lines and to the inj's as I feel that may be the casue of some of the inj clack a lot of us expirience after doing DV's.

l_turn9 · #55 10-28-2009, 08:57 PM

Thanks for that info. My '91 has 172K on it and the dealer said they were leaking. How many miles did you get before the DV's needed to be serviced? My DV's never really looked wet, the MB technician said it was causing the engine's rocking movement when hot and idling. They also suggested replacing the motor mounts which I just finished on Sunday. This was the single greatest improvement I've ever seen! We are new to W124s and I wasn't prepared for the HUGE improvement in the noise level!! It's so quiet when cranking we must be careful not to crank after the engine has started! We bought it with 99k miles and it was quieter than our W123 but we never expected to have a diesel THIS quiet! My wife smiles every time she drives it.

I need to do the DV's but am hesitant to do them because it's running so darned good now. But I will do them one day and need to learn the procedure.

If anyone thinks your W124 MM's may need replacing, my old ones were between 3/4" and 7/8" shorter than the new ones.

gsxr · #56 10-29-2009, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l_turn9

You replied about the torque procedure and that made me wonder if it's appropriate to put anything on the threads - like oil or diesel fuel? In other applications there seems to be some controversy on doing so. Some say the torque value is distorted by lubricating the threads while others say the torque is more accurate when lubed. In a location like this it may be tough to keep the threads dry if that's the way to go.

Applying lubricant such as engine oil or anti-seize will definitely change the torque applied to the fastener when using a torque wrench. The general rule is that the torque spec is always for clean, dry threads unless the factory manual explicitly states otherwise (for example, head bolts are usually required to have a light film of oil applied). For the DV's, it's impossible to dry the threads completely, so I would assume that MB factored that into their spec. Or, it's also possible that the fuel doesn't affect torque as much as oil or antiseize would. Either way, I wouldn't worry about it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by l_turn9

We are new to W124s and I wasn't prepared for the HUGE improvement in the noise level!! It's so quiet when cranking we must be careful not to crank after the engine has started! We bought it with 99k miles and it was quieter than our W123 but we never expected to have a diesel THIS quiet! My wife smiles every time she drives it. If anyone thinks your W124 MM's may need replacing, my old ones were between 3/4" and 7/8" shorter than the new ones.

There is a measurement spec which will tell you if the mounts have collapsed or not. Click here for the PDF file. Yours were most likely collapsed and well below the min spec. The W124 is light-years ahead of the W123... welcome to the club!

BTW, check your VIN / engine number and see if you need to be concerned about the timing chain (click here)... checking the chain stretch is a good idea anyway though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by l_turn9

I need to do the DV's but am hesitant to do them because it's running so darned good now. But I will do them one day and need to learn the procedure.

If they're leaking fuel, you'll have to replace them sooner rather than later. The injection pump also likes to leak oil, and you can replace most external gaskets with the pump on the engine, except for the bottom cover... that one is extremely difficult (borderline impossible) to replace on the car, mostly because you can't access the screws.

l_turn9 · #57 10-29-2009, 01:34 PM

Thanks for that info. I'm sure you're right - things will just get worse if I delay the repairs.

BTW, - I rebuilt my 240D engine a few years ago and I learned 1st hand how the IP interacts with the engine and the IP timing gizmo. (forgot the terminology) ;-) but it was not as bad as I had feared. The worst part was making sure all of the parts went back *exactly* as they came out! Had a couple of washers that had me scratching my head. They had beveled edges making it hard to see the 'right' way to install them by looking at the pictures. Getting the chain around the timing wheel (?) with its *very* limited clearance inside the cyl head was a real challenge too! It kept wanting to jam. Not sure if I would want to rebuild the 300 but if I take it one step at a time. Not putting time constraints on the job is always helpful too!

Anyway,

Swicey · #58 12-09-2009, 12:36 PM

Hello! Recently bought a 1997 E300, US non turbo, 156,000 miles. Love the car although I would have rather a turbo model, I think that was available here in 1998. Well, the discharge seals were leaking along with a few of the o-rings on the fuel lines. Your posting was so very helpful!! Great pics, made the job last night much smoother, THANKS! While the intake was off I noticed an extreme amount of carbon build-up inside the intake tubes and inside the ports in the head. This was due to the positive crankcase vent puffing oil fumes back into the intake. Several of my ports were over half stopped up-- could be the reason for this car being sluggish while "getting on it" trying to pass another car, etc. Anyway, looking forward to taking it out of the garage later today to see! Any thoughts on an electric blower installed on the intake to increase power/efficiency? Thanks again, Mike