I live in New Jersey, and Autozone carries both items mentioned above. When I did the job changing out all 6 plugs, it took me about 5 days, and each plug acted exactly like the one you mention. I could screw them out past the threads, but once the plugs were free of the threaded area, they were still held in by the carbon buildup. You may not have stripped the threads, but it may be carbon bound. Freeze-off gets sprayed for about 20-30 seconds, which lowers the temperature of the plug area, and then I would immediately hit it with PB Blaster and let it sit for about 30-40 minutes. I used a torque wrench to stay within reasonable levels regarding the force applied to unscrew or move the plug. I used a deep 6 sided socket with an extension, and applied outward force as I moved the plug back and forth. Even with all the preparation, the plugs would all "squeak" each time I got them to move in either direction. It is not a physically taxing job, but it is nerve wracking when going through the process. The carbon would eventually give way, but I would say that the plug would have to be 3/4 out before it would finally let go. Good luck.

Blocking the EGR valve will reduce carbon in the intake, will certainly keep the IM cleaner and may help the glow plugs too.

Note that this is fairly easy on the '96-97 NA engines because the simpler electronics don't watch for gas flow through the EGR valve. Others will have to explain the procedure for the later turbo 606 in the '98-99 models.

Jeremy

Makes sense. I'm thinking that for the OM606 turbo's if you at least defer the CCV gases from going back in the intake there is a good chance of keeping the carbon from "glueing" itself to the glow plugs... Those CCV gases and exhaust soot create a nasty sticking paste.

I wish someone would do that and then write a definative, step-by-step DIY.

I've got a glow plug out now. The IM is coming off tomorrow night. Cross yer fingers!

It's simple.... Run a heater hose from the elbow on the right side of the valve cover tube to the ground. Instead of letting that tube feed the turbo inlet, remove that small hose and replace it with the 3/4" or so heater hose.

Also know as "elephant hose"

huh.

I thought I read threads that talked about sensors that would be looking for vacuum, and CEL if it doesn't get it.

You're probably talking about th eEGR, not the CCV. I specifically addressed the CCV aspect.

I read that also. On the non-turbo 96-97 there are no sensors after the egr valve to detect anything, so there is no cel generated. On the turbo models there appears to be an issue when diverting the exhaust gases from their normal path which will produce an error code.

They are not talking about exhaust gasses here, just crankcase ventilation (CCV). Basically this mod will vent any blowby to the atmosphere rather than trying to burn it up first. I honestly don't know how effective this would be towards helping to prevent stuck glow plugs though.

EGR is different and would set off a CEL if it is blocked.

>>just crankcase ventilation (CCV)

Which, despite the mess it makes of intake pipes, I would not divert or recommend anyone to divert. Crankcase oil fumes are one of the mechanisms by which the inlet valves and inlet valve seats obtain any lubrication.

My mistake, and you are correct regarding the EGR in his turbo model setting off a cel.............

Anytime I take apart the intake manifold, I take a moment to remove the tranducers and dab some Mobil 1 grease on the pivot points just in case :-)

I've run the CCV mod on my '97 E300 for at least 70-80k so far w/ no issues!

Sorry for the confusion, I had indeed mixed up my EGR threads with my CCV threads!

Count me in.

Don't think so

Probably so

I got that kit. It had drills, taps, helicores. None of it would fit what we needed for a 606 although it said it was for a 606 too.