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  #1  
Old 02-01-2008, 10:35 PM
showme's Avatar
Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
82 240D doesn't shut off- any suggestions?

I've recently bought my daughter, a college student, a 240. It runs well, seems to be in pretty good shape, except for the rust and a few other small glitches.
I've done some research on a problem I'm having with the car not shutting off when the key is turned off. Even the 'stop' button under the hood isn't doing the trick, even though it does start to bog down a little when I really put some pressure on it. Thankfully, it's a manual tranny, and the shut off of choice for the previous owner was to "put it in gear, let off the clutch and kill it". (He told me he thought they were made that way. I didn't know whether he was serious or just wanting to get rid of the car fast before he left for Hawaii)
Anyway, I've read a few things about vacuum leaks. I've seen vacuum valves discussed, and found one on ********AZ's site that supposedly controls vacuum that controls the fuel shut off when the key is turned off. What I'm hoping is that someone who has had this problem can save the trial and error game and let me in on the necessary fix. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or experiences that you may have had with this problem. Thanks for your replies. I really need to get this thing fixed so I can get my daughter on the road without ruining the clutch or tranny in the process. Lee

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Last edited by showme; 02-01-2008 at 10:37 PM. Reason: miss spell
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  #2  
Old 02-01-2008, 10:43 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Munich
Posts: 107
my 240 d manual here says that too: " Im ersten getrieb schalten und dann der kupplung mit ihren linker fuss auf lassen"

"in first gear, let go off the clutch with your left foot"
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2008, 11:08 PM
whunter's Avatar
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Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
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Answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by showme View Post
I've recently bought my daughter, a college student, a 240. It runs well, seems to be in pretty good shape, except for the rust and a few other small glitches.
I've done some research on a problem I'm having with the car not shutting off when the key is turned off. Even the 'stop' button under the hood isn't doing the trick, even though it does start to bog down a little when I really put some pressure on it. Thankfully, it's a manual tranny, and the shut off of choice for the previous owner was to "put it in gear, let off the clutch and kill it". (He told me he thought they were made that way. I didn't know whether he was serious or just wanting to get rid of the car fast before he left for Hawaii)
Anyway, I've read a few things about vacuum leaks. I've seen vacuum valves discussed, and found one that supposedly controls the fuel shut off when the key is turned off. What I'm hoping is that someone who has had this problem can save the trial and error game and let me in on the necessary fix. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or experiences that you may have had with this problem. Thanks for your replies. I really need to get this thing fixed so I can get my daughter on the road without ruining the clutch or tranny in the process. Lee
PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
Vehicle 1982 Mercedes Benz 240D
Part: Shut Off Valve
Note: At Injection Pump
Pulls injection pump rack to stop. Requires (2) 001 074 20 80 gaskets.
D2020-17409 Shut Off Valve Bosch IN STOCK



PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
Vehicle 1982 Mercedes Benz 240D
Part: Shut Off Valve Gasket
Note:
For vacuum shut off 000 070 20 53.
D2021-26056 Shut Off Valve Gasket Bosch IN STOCK




Here are threads you need to read.

Diesel Injection:


Run away diesel, why does it happen? (URGENT shutoff valve data)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=101404

Motor / engine keeps running
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=80108

How to Replace Your Shutoff Valve
http://dieselgiant.com/repairyourshutoffvalve.htm

Vacuum Diagrams W123 and W126 models
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=105297

Fuel injection pump diagrams???
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=141323

Rebuilding the Vacuum Pump on the 617 Engine
http://207.210.95.34/~boostd/easley/Rebuild_vac_pump.htm

1982-240D-Vacuum System
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=105201

Vacuum pump lesson learned
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=872760

Vacuum Pump Gasket Sealer & Torque
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=138153






Have a great day.
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2008, 11:13 PM
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Location: new braunfels, TX
Posts: 290
You really should get a mityvac. As the vacuum systems are interconnected, you will find your problem both faster and cheaper if you test the individual components. Every valve, line and connector are suspect until you know they hold vacuum. Start at thje vacuum pump and work your way down the lines.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2008, 11:16 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
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Usually it is a vacuum leak robbing the vacuum to your shutoff valve, not actually your shutoff valve. If you will, at the firewall, remove the two yellow and the green lines and plug the rubber fittings to them with a golf tee or similar, leaving only the brown vac line to the shutoff via the keyswitch {and a black one that is a vent}. Then let car run for 20-30 seconds and see if it shuts off.
I'm guessing your vac pump is creating vacuum as you didn't mention not having correct brakes.
You are going to want to purchase a Mityvac, making all this stuff much easier to troubleshoot.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_391590_391590

I'm not real sure why the manual shutoff linkage isn't working. I have one that will barely kill the engine. Must be some kind of mechanical adjustment, I just haven't ever researched that one.....
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Last edited by JimmyL; 02-01-2008 at 11:23 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2008, 11:31 PM
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Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,416
Talking Harbor Freight


$17.99
BRAKE BLEEDER & VACUUM PUMP KIT

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92474
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2008, 11:51 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
That's not bad, but it doesn't measure pressure as well as vacuum. Might never need it to, I just mention it as a comparison. Harbor Freight has the regular Mityvac also. It is usually $25-30 bucks.
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'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #8  
Old 02-02-2008, 06:56 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Munich
Posts: 107
the mityvac breaks when used in winter. plastic. the harbour freight one has issues with the closing of the canister. sometimes the seal won't lock.
otherwise pretty good buy for the money.
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  #9  
Old 02-02-2008, 07:25 PM
LUVMBDiesels's Avatar
Dead on balls accurate...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
I'm not real sure why the manual shutoff linkage isn't working. I have one that will barely kill the engine. Must be some kind of mechanical adjustment, I just haven't ever researched that one.....
You can adjust the linkage so that the shut off lever works properly. You then have to make sure that you don't slow down your idle speed.

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