Oil cooler line question

[sublettm]

I am about to order some parts to do the oil cooler lines on my '84. While I am in there, are there any other seals related to the oil system I should change while I have it all torn apart? I only want to do this once.

Engine mount, I know its not part of the oil system. You will probably decide to loosen the mount and lift the engine to get clearance so if it is more than a few years old you might as well replace it since you will have it half off.

[Chad300tdt]

Also engine shocks/mounts and possibly the oil pan gaskets.

[sublettm]

Good to know. Are there any seals around the oil filter canister that should be replaced?

[Chad300tdt]

Originally Posted by sublettm

Good to know. Are there any seals around the oil filter canister that should be replaced?

The 2 o-rings (big one on the lid and the little one on the stem). That's all I can think of.

[Diesel911]

Be sure to do a search and read the other threads on changing the oil cooler lines. I say this as some members reported that they ruined their oil cooler do to the oil cooler hose nuts being corroded together in the oil cooler thread area. I lost several threads on mine when I took the nut off. I found a piece of the oil cooler (aluminum) threads had stuck on to the inside of the (Steele) nut threads and when I backed off the nut it proceeded to cut the threads behind it.
One member even cracked his oil filter housing trying to get the hose off there. Please take the time and read some threads.

[NC Benz]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Be sure to do a search and read the other threads on changing the oil cooler lines. I say this as some members reported that they ruined their oil cooler do to the oil cooler hose nuts being corroded together in the oil cooler thread area. I lost several threads on mine when I took the nut off. I found a piece of the oil cooler (aluminum) threads had stuck on to the inside of the (Steele) nut threads and when I backed off the nut it proceeded to cut the threads behind it.
One member even cracked his oil filter housing trying to get the hose off there. Please take the time and read some threads.

No pun intended I am sure.

Is it Friday yet?

[AdvisorGuy]

I was just outside spraying my glow plugs with some PB Blaster as I've been doing for the last 2 weeks and noticed my upper cooler hose seeping. Gonna see if I can find a local shop to repair them as I should have before I left Jersey when I had access to all the hydraulic hose & crimper I could have asked for...

[Chad300tdt]

Originally Posted by AdvisorGuy

I was just outside spraying my glow plugs with some PB Blaster as I've been doing for the last 2 weeks and noticed my upper cooler hose seeping. Gonna see if I can find a local shop to repair them as I should have before I left Jersey when I had access to all the hydraulic hose & crimper I could have asked for...

I've recently been introduced to a penetrating oil that is much better and FASTER than PB Blaster. It's call AeroKroil and you can get it here: http://kanolabs.com/

[bodyart27]

Everyone has touched base on the major points.

No seals on the lines themselves

You need a 8mm and 6mm allen for the motor mount - you might consider replacing it - you're going to have to completely remove it and the shock.

7mm wrench to act as a counterhold on the engine mount shock to undo the nuts on the shock (all 10mm socket). A ratcheting wrench is nice for this job.

The line is a 27mm wrench on both ends... and I think the counterhold on the fitting on the oil canister was a 22mm. If you can find a thin wrench for the counterhold (to prevent the fitting on the cannister from spinning) that would help (look for my post on oil lines). A normal size open end wrench can't be squeezed in on the fitting (you'll hit the cantister or the 27mm nut on the line because the grip area on the fitting is so thin - go take a look at your car and this comment will make immediate sense).

The brackets holding the lines are 10mm socket.

Removing the lines is quicker if you just cut the rubber ends off. Replace both lines - you don't want to do this job twice!

Getting the lines in the position is a PITA - try from both the top and bottom and spin, and twist every which way.

[Jordan G]

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I've recently been introduced to a penetrating oil that is much better and FASTER than PB Blaster. It's call AeroKroil and you can get it here: http://kanolabs.com/

You and your darkstar knowledge.

I actually was going to give that stuff a try too, I've gone through far too many cans of PB blaster to count.

[Chad300tdt]

Originally Posted by Jordan G

You and your darkstar knowledge.

I actually was going to give that stuff a try too, I've gone through far too many cans of PB blaster to count.

I would've tried the JB-80, but I still can't find a source anywhere. I think you can even get the Kroil on amazon, although it's more $$ than buying it direct.

[sublettm]

Thanks Bodyart. I have already purchased the lines themselves and bought both of them. As for the engine shocks, since I haven't been under this car in a while, are there one or two? Will the shock mounts need to be replaced as well or do they usually hold up well. I say this as I suspect the engine shocks and mounts are probably original to the car and if I am in this deep, I might as well do these while I am there. I have the benifit of owning a third car now so I can take my time on this job and do all that needs to be done. This is why I was asking if there were any seals on the oil filter housing that should be replaced while I am there. Didn't know if the gasket between the housing and the mount should be replaced while I am in there or not. I am wanting to do one BIG parts order for this car and my '87 at the same time. The '87 needs far more than the 123...that 124 is going to be the death of me one day.

[Chad300tdt]

I wish I had purchased the oil cooler lines, mounts, and engine shocks/mounts/bushings before I started the job. Even if the stuff looks OK it's most likely going to be going soon. Might as well replace it now. There are two engine shocks and two upper mounts. There are 4 rubber bushings for the lower ends.

[pawoSD]

Another good penetrant is the Marvel Mystery Oil Aerosol penetrant spray, and CRC has one called "Freeze-Off" that works quite well on stuck/rusty bolts. Careful though....the Freeze-Off stuff isn't exactly brain-friendly.