tach amp wire colors for wires 2,3,6?
 

my tach amp wires got pulled out of the socket today i've looked around not found anything can anyone tell me the color of the wires for the #2,3 and 6 going into the tach amp?

If I may recall,

#2 is ground (not sure what color but maybe brown)
#3 is green-black (goes to directly to the tach)
#6 is red-black (switched power)


Hope this helps.

Well, I do have a picture with the socket cover removed, but now I can't find it. This schematic should help, you'll need to use a multimeter to figure out which ones are hot and ground.

http://lh5.google.com/geoffreyforest...TachAmp2.3.JPGhttp://picasaweb.google.com/geoffrey...61621707833218

Brown is always ground.

OK Now ya done it... I may have to go out and build these puppies.... The Variable Reluctance amp (IC) is available for $3.60 each. I have already picked apart the sealant on one of these.

I am tired of my Tach flopping about (rarely) or just showing ZERO(most of the time).

I used a microcontroller. About 1/4 the cost of the LM1815.

Of course, you need to program it.......

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=207837&highlight=designing

make too i think mine's busted after fiddling with the wires for about 30 min i broke on of the ones off on the base the female that fits into the #6 socket so now i've gotta find another to see if mine was just not making contact or what the silicone and whatever was holding the #2,3,6 wires was shot 25 yrs of heat has everything looose... so i'm up for something that replaces this junk and makes my tach not look like a top fuel dragster tach.

Here's a link to my post after reverse engineering the tach amp:

How the Tach Amp Works

If you follow the links to the second page, I posted a simple schematic for a circuit you can put together to test your tachometer.

This schematic has some glaring errors - be careful. For instance, pins 8 and 9 are connected together - which is problematical since pin 9 is the input from the variable reluctance sensor and pin 8 is ground! Also the inductor between pins 2 and 3 of the LM1815 isn't an inductor - it's a 0.0033 microfarad polyester capacitor, etc. Use the one I posted in my explanation - I took a Tachometer Amplifier completely apart and checked out each component individually.

http://www.spottydog.us/pix/TachAmp_small.png

Honestly, all I ever used this schematic for was the pinout for the amp in the upper right corner...I don't remember where it came from, but it was on this forum somewhere. Thanks for the info...I'll save yours too for future reference.

one of the female pins in the lower portion is broke any ideas on where i can find a replacement?

How's it broken? You can pop the lower part open and see what's under there...they're just female bullet connectors crimped/soldered to a wire. I don't know if a regular female bullet connector will fit right in that space, but you could give it a shot. Or take apart another connector in the car that you don't need...they're all over the car. Or a junk yard...

Hey, I found my pictures! Here's the connectors...
http://lh4.google.com/geoffreyforest...jpg?imgmax=800

yah that's the ones that are broke off i haven't looked much i have a tiny tach digital tach but i can't see it at night so i might fix it or might keep it taped up and say heck with it. I'd like to find some replacement ones just incase tho i've tried the normal bullet ones and they are a bit too big to fit in the plastic housing.

I thought the regular female bullet connectors might be a little too big, I've never tried though. Well just about every electrical connector in the car has these female bullet connectors in them. If you can find a junk car, you could score a good sized handful. Or take apart another connector in the car, like one of the rear door switches (my car doesn't do anything when you open the rear doors anyway).

What kind of digital tach to you have? Where is it connected?