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  #1  
Old 02-14-2008, 07:52 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Manual transmission grinding going into 3rd gear

The car is China, 1980 240D.
History: she would occasionally grind shifting into 3rd on the first shift of the day when the weather was cold. Not having a baseline, I changed the tranny fluid. Used Redline MTL filled to proper level.









Gradually over the last couple of months the occasions of grinding going into 3rd {upshift or downshift} are getting more numerous, and not only when cold now. I would say that in the course of a normal day it will grind 5-8 times total. It doesn't matter if clutch pedal is buried to the bottom of the floorboard, or how precise I shift {as in up from second, over, then up to 3rd exaggerated}.
Car has 143K. Shifter linkages are tight to tranny levers {this style tranny levers/linkages attach with collar type fitting}
What causes this, and what repairs this?

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #2  
Old 02-14-2008, 08:10 PM
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[QUOTE=JimmyL;1764124]The car is China, 1980 240D.
History: she would occasionally grind shifting into 3rd on the first shift of the day when the weather was cold. Not having a baseline, I changed the tranny fluid. Used Redline MTL filled to proper level.





Wow, 143K is nothing for one of those trannys. A friend had one die with over 250K on it and we found another at Benz Friends in Seattle for $200. I have never rebuilt one, and that might be something I would have done. Guess it depends on how you fell about the job, I think the "normal
wear parts" are fairly cheap. Good luck
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

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  #3  
Old 02-14-2008, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Gradually over the last couple of months the occasions of grinding going into 3rd {upshift or downshift} are getting more numerous, and not only when cold now. I would say that in the course of a normal day it will grind 5-8 times total.
Car has 143K. Shifter linkages are tight to tranny levers {this style tranny levers/linkages attach with collar type fitting}
What causes this, and what repairs this?
My recently departed 81 240D displayed exactly the same symptoms. Started a few months after I bought it and only improved slightly with new shift linkage bushings. However it had around 380K miles when this showed up. I'm surprised to hear of it a only 143K. Can't answer the question as to what causes it but a suspicion is it might be clutch wear.

- Peter.
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Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S
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  #4  
Old 02-14-2008, 08:25 PM
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Are you sure your clutch hydraulics are not an issue? A cheap sanity check might be to bleed 'em and see if that improves anything (I know, its a PITA)
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #5  
Old 02-14-2008, 08:45 PM
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Damaged or worn syncro ring on third is a possibility. I have changed them on other brands. Usually pretty inexpensive.
I would very carefully inspect my linkages for wear or binding first though.
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2008, 09:16 PM
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Clutch never has felt very strong, and if I don't shift her smooth she loves to chug-a-lug shifting from 1st to 2nd. A real neck snapping type of chugging.
But would a clutch issue only cause a grinding into one particular gear?
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2008, 09:37 PM
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Try double clutching to help diagnose. Thats where you press the clutch. Move out of gear into neutral. Release clutch then depress clutch again and move into gear. If grind is eliminated it is usually the syncro ring.
There is a possibility that third gear is more fussy to a not totally disengaging clutch as well I guess.
Jack up one rear wheel. Have someone depress the clutch. Does rear wheel turn fairly easily. Or when stopped at an intersection is clutch totally releasing or does car want to creep with brake off?
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  #8  
Old 02-14-2008, 10:24 PM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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What wgt rating is Redline MTL manual tranny & transaxle lube?? 4-spd MB should have 30wt engine oil or regular ATF...... never 60-80wt.
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  #9  
Old 02-14-2008, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300SDog View Post
What wgt rating is Redline MTL manual tranny & transaxle lube?? 4-spd MB should have 30wt engine oil or regular ATF...... never 60-80wt.
Manual Transmission Lube
http://www.racepartsusa.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=16502&partner=froogle
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #10  
Old 02-14-2008, 10:59 PM
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I would also suspect the clutch. Air in the system and the clutch probably doesn't disengage fully when you press the pedal to the floor. Thus, there is a load on the dog clutch when it is pushed to engage. No synchros can deal with the load that creates. They are intended for no more than the inertia of the spinning parts when completely disconnected from the wheels.

Not clear why you only get this on one gear, but when a clutch isn't disengaging completely I think it is actually common to have this problem with lower gears more so than higher ones. In any case, I would examine the clutch operation before I went much further. It is possible the linkage is maladjusted as well, which could feasibly be stopping the dog clutch and the associated shaft from spinning, which will also put an unusual load on the synchro, which is outside its design capacity.

Good luck, Jim

PS: How long has the RedLine been in there?
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #11  
Old 02-14-2008, 11:06 PM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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Location: central ky
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I'm confused - they call it 70W80 yet claim 10W30 "engine oil viscosity."

If it was me I'd run Ford type 2 ATF, same as MB's been using in manual trannies since about 1959. Question of needle bearings requiring thinner oil you understand. And whats the brown stuff left from previous owner that's been purged? If thats 60-80 wt stuff then hate to say it but damage coulda already been done.
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2008, 12:12 AM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
I would also suspect the clutch. Air in the system and the clutch probably doesn't disengage fully when you press the pedal to the floor. Thus, there is a load on the dog clutch when it is pushed to engage. No synchros can deal with the load that creates. They are intended for no more than the inertia of the spinning parts when completely disconnected from the wheels.

Not clear why you only get this on one gear, but when a clutch isn't disengaging completely I think it is actually common to have this problem with lower gears more so than higher ones. In any case, I would examine the clutch operation before I went much further. It is possible the linkage is maladjusted as well, which could feasibly be stopping the dog clutch and the associated shaft from spinning, which will also put an unusual load on the synchro, which is outside its design capacity.

Good luck, Jim

PS: How long has the RedLine been in there?
I changed the fluid 1/15/08, almost a month ago. As stated, had the occasional 3rd gear grind prior to the change. Actually, I was hoping the fluid change might help.
When I swapped in the engine from Scar I didn't do anything to the clutch because at the time the car only had 136K. Throughout bearing looked pretty crappy, but who knows by looks....









Maybe a mis-adjusted shifter linkage for 3rd gear? Since tranny stuff isn't in the shop manual does anybody have a pdf of the linkage adjustment procedure, or is it just a case of moving it a tad either way?
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #13  
Old 02-15-2008, 12:14 AM
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Try adding some ford synchromesh manual tranny fuild. I used this in my mercedes along with some synthetic lucas oil stabilizer with the rest as synthetic ATF fluid. ran great until i hit a tree.
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1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

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  #14  
Old 02-15-2008, 01:19 AM
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I would try the previous suggestion of bleeding the hydraulic lines of the clutch. The synchros for first and second gear may just be a bit stronger because they typically have to deal with higher loads (the ratio difference from 1st to 2nd is higher than 3rd and 4th, so the synchro has to do more work to speed up or slow down the free spinning transmission parts before the dog clutch engages) and they actually can handle the added load of a clutch dragging ever so slightly. Otherwise, I would presume the problem is either linkage or something bad has happened to the guts of your transmission. I have never, ever seen on of these go bad though.

Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2008, 12:16 PM
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A driver inexperienced with the 'stately pace' of 240D acceleration can force or rush a shift which can bend/tweak the synchronizer springs and cause gear grinding during shifts.

Thing one whacked Nell's synchros in 2nd the first time he drove her. It's ground intermittently ever since.

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