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#31
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me too
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#32
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I think I may stop by NAPA tonight and see if they have a good magnetic oil pan heater....my lower hose one helps on startups but doesn't really warm the engine (or oil) much.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#33
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'83 240D 264k ![]() ![]() 83 300D 217K ![]() ![]() '82 300D 267K the new WVO project car ![]() ![]() International tractor B275 on B100 ![]() Ford 555 backhoe on B100 Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#34
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![]() Where did you get your pan heater? Does it work well?
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#35
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I figure the starting fluid should get it good and warm.
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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast. ![]() |
#36
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For those really cold days, when the engine has been sitting all night at -40 degrees, and there's an emergency, WD40 can be used to aid in cold starting.
1. Hold WD-40 at two or three arms' length from the engine. Start a spray of the stuff out over the engine. 2. Use an aim-n-flame lighter in the other hand. Find the ideal distance between the can and the engine to produce a blowtorch effect over the engine without allowing the fire to travel backwards into the can. (The lack of oxygen SHOULD prevent an explosion anyway, but better safe than sorry.) 3. Blowtorch the engine surface for a while. Stop before plastic starts to melt. 4. Quickly dash around the car and turn the key. It should start with all that warmth. |
#37
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I let mine idle about one minute or long enough to be firing on all cylinders since I have a bad GP. Like others have said it's best to drive off gently immediately after startup. The engine will surely warm up much quicker that way. I maintain a limit of 2000 RPM while traversing the neighborhood then limit it to 2500 RPM after entering the main road.
The thing with idling is this: Combustion temps are so low at idle that hardly any heat is imparted to the block. EGT's are 200deg or less and combustion effeciency is at it's lowest. Unburned fuel vapor mixes with carbon and exhaust gasses and cruds up the exhaust valves and emission control circuits. Over time, this can lead to poor performance and even sticking valves which may come in contact with the pistons. This condition is known as "wet stacking". Oh, and I hope you guys are joking about the starting fluid... You like your pre-chambers right?
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#38
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I'm in Alpharetta and I crank it up and go. It's not good to "warm up" engines at idle, and diesels don't generate much heat at all that way. By the time I reach GA-400 just over a mile away, the car is warmed up.
I also don't like to annoy the neighbors with all the clacking. |
#39
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Semis usually idle because they want cabin heat and power. A lot of newer semis have an Aux Power Unit which has a smaller diesel engine that can run just to provide heat, A/C and power.
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#40
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Lately, I've been doing this:
1. Start engine. 2. Clear snow/ice/frost off of vehicle. 3. Drive away slowly. Use 1/3 pedal or less and shift 1-2 at 15-18 mph, 2-3 at 25-30, 3-4 around 40 until engine temperature comes up near 175, then resume "rental" treatment. In warmer weather I skip #2. I've mostly been driving the 240 to work, partly because I keep the scraper in it, partly because the 300 always seems to have frozen locks early in the morning, and partly because I prefer the 240 unless I'm going to be on the highway for long periods.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. 99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles. |
#41
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k ![]() 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k ![]() 1980 240D Stick China 188k ![]() 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k ![]() 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! ![]() |
#42
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Waiting til the coolant up to temp is a misnomer anyway. Oil temperature is more critical. Drive any of the early 2000's Audis or, the 48 hours I drove a Phaeton W12 with an OIL temperature gauge and you'll understand. Water heats up a lot faster than oil. I drove the Phaeton in February 2004 as part of the 24 hour test drive intro. The coolant was up to 190 degrees within 5 minutes. The 12 quarts of oil took more like 20 minutes to reach operating temp. Just start it up and go....
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Sharing my partner's 2012 Forte 5dr SX til I find my next 123 or 126.. - Do I miss being a service advisor ??? ![]() |
#43
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I usually wait until OP is up, then go when ready (takes me a while to lock and load anyway ...). If it's real cold (which it sometimes is when I leave work at 2 a.m.), I let it idle for a minute or so then go. If I feel it needs to warm up, I drive around the parking lot (big lot) a couple times slowly. Idling to warm it up seems pointless ... it takes forever, and the tranny fluid still needs to warm up anyway.
The exception is if I'm iced in, I let it idle while I clean off the snow/ice ... might as well get rear window defrost up and going.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#44
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Diesel semis used to idle, it's all they had for heat. Many semis will shut-off on their own now, and are equipped with Webasto etc. diesel-fired heaters to keep the cab (and often the engine) warm so that the engine doesn't need to idle. Idling is bad for semi engines also and owner's manuals recommend not idling. My Caterpillar manuals (dating back to 1977) have all said the same thing, do not idle to warm up, drive easily until the temp gauge comes up, and do not idle for extended periods at any time (I believe that 15minutes was the maximum back then). My Mercedes diesel manuals (602 and 603) say the same. See post #37 again.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#45
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I went to NAPA tonight seeking a magnetic pan heater and they didn't have any, only "clamp on" ones. For those of you with a magnetic pan heater....where did you get it, and how much was it?
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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