pull the bottom rebuild 300td
 

Was wondering if I can just open the oil pan pull the pistons and replace the rings on my blow by demon. First step to fight the blow by.

Has anyone done this or have any advice. What reasons can i not do this?
Called a reputable MB mechanic and said that I need to pull the motor -cost if he did it, between 5-8k. I wouldn't mind spending a week in the garage for it. Everything besides the oil consumption is great on this 220k beauty.

might be possible to do this if you car didn't have a crankshaft in the way.

You (or anyone else) will need to pull the engine.

I made the mistake once of trying to roll in new main and big end bearings into my TR-7 while it was still in the car. Six weeks later, I wondered why I was so foolish.

Rick

The only vehicle I've ever seen have a successful engine rebuild while it was still installed was a Farmall C. And we still had to split the tractor to replace the clutch and the rear main seal.

just an everyday "in-frame"
that is how semi's get most of their freshenups.
I did a rod and piston in my 300sdl 40k miles ago with the motor loose, cocked up but not out.
I even had a dodge truck that I had the rod journals turned while still in the truck.

heck I just remembered I put new rod bearings a piston a rod and a full set of rings in a f700 ford on the side of the road in Jacksonville took one afternoon to break it down and was back to work the next afternoon.

ahhh....done alot of rings in cars and tractors "in-frame"

if the mains are good and you have good oil pressure have at it.

country boy can survive,

dave

I don't believe its possible to get out a rod and piston with the crank in the motor.

Not in one piece and not even if you are a country boy.

Tom W

Even if you remove the crank there would be no way to compress the rings to get them back in.

Even if you did manage to get them back in, the top ring would be destroyed on the first start when it hits the ridge worn into the cylinder made by the old rings.

duhhhh...it has to go out the top.

just pop the head off.

ain't none going out the bottom

inframes are very common on the big engines- but they are somewhat designed for this. getting the upper oilpan off these engines is a lot easier if you pull it.

If you have the space, buy beg borrow or rent a cherry picker & stand, and pull the thing out, it will make life easier in the long run, then you can do them all.- it seems like you want to do them all?? way easier on a stand, IMHO... if you just had 1 bad one, and weren't really attached to the car......

from what I've read , there

Yeah I thought I'd pull the head and take it in. So looks like I can do this? I'm not clear on the answers. Guess its an opinion?
as far as pulling the motor:
My brother pulled the bottom of a civic and rebuilt it in about 5hrs, but thats a civic.

Anyone scene the video on ebay for rebuilding 300? Anyone know a round about time frame it takes to pull the engine on one of these?
I pulled one out of a vw in 45min once, but that was a vw.

No it's not just an opinion
 

If you can't get the upper pan off with the engine in the car, how can you access the bolts on the rods for anything but the front piston, maybe you could loosen number two also. That leaves three you can't reach. I think country boy is full of country poo.

How long dose it take to pull the motor? Any other links?
thanks for all the input. I'm not one to just jump in with a wrench.

Theres a decent run down of the procedure in Haynes.

Some guys say 4 hours
 

You need a good cherry picker type engine lift to start, and it works better if you have one with the screw adjustable chain bracket, so that you can get the proper tilt to the engine. I would say that with that tool, and most of the small wrenches available, a hard working person without great mechanical experience, could pull it in 10 hours. You just have to go all around that engine, underneath and to the back of the transmission and loosen every nut and bolt, bracket and connector that you come to. If it is attached to the engine or transmission and attached to the body, anywhere, it has to come loose. And the preferred way to remove is to pull the transmission with the engine. The radiator has to be pulled also, and protect the A/C condensor with a piece of plywood, maybe very heavy cardboard would do.