W124 still does not stop (injector exploded view?) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

GregZ · #1 03-01-2008, 06:15 PM

Hi All,

This is another question about my '87 300DT. I have checked the vacuum stopping system and it works fine. I can actually see the lever drop when the key is turned off. The engine does not want to stop though (not even if I manually push the lever down). So, there must be something gone wrong inside the injector pump assembly. Does anyone have an idea what it could be? Does anyone have a exploded view of the pump? The pump is a PES6M55C320RS157. I am attaching a thumbnail picture of it.

Thanks,

Greg

connerm · #2 03-01-2008, 06:22 PM

Dang, that's one clean machine. Sorry I couldn't help.

mcguiver7 · #3 03-01-2008, 07:01 PM

sounds like it's the acuator itself.

junqueyardjim · #4 03-01-2008, 07:54 PM

Once in a while I have to hunt a vacuum tube that gets pulled loose and for a time or two have to stop the engine with that little manual lever. Now the first time I did that, I could not believe how hard I had to push that thing to kill the engine. If you can't get enough pressure with your finger, use a tool or piece of wood, because I think if you push hard enough, it will stop running.

minimike1 · #5 03-01-2008, 08:17 PM

I had a similar problem, and solved it with a vac gauge. See my post of today. Our problem was a leak in the climate control. something is open in that vac. circuit and we simply after testing disconnected the purple line and plugged the 4 way connection that it was tied into. Car start, stops, locks work. I'm a happy camper. If you're in a hurry have harbor freight overnite the gauge to you. it was $18 bucks with pony express shipping. I waited 12 days impatiently. You need the gauge to diagnose this.

GregZ · #6 03-01-2008, 09:45 PM

Thanks all for trying, unfortunately none of that helps a lot. I tried pushing it (and pushing it hard). I tested the membrane and all vacuum lines with a mity vac (I have a garage at home in which I have completed many engine overhauls

). I believe something is broken on the inside

Greg

2.5Turbo · #7 03-01-2008, 09:53 PM

Take the shut off valve out of the top of the IP and look to see if it's still hooked onto the arm inside the IP. This would cause a runaway on a 61x...don't quote me on it but I think they fixed that issue on the 60x IP.

TMAllison · #8 03-01-2008, 11:51 PM

I'm not sure if there is anyone here who would be daring enough to break into the IP and "fix" it. Thats Bosch bench territory.

I'd suggest looking for a disconnected vacuum line (or TWO) that came off and were reinstalled in the wrong place. Especially associated with the shutoff.

compress ignite · #9 03-02-2008, 12:42 AM

pdrayton gave us this excellent tutorial with pictures!

"Shut off valve replacement W124 602/3 300D 2.5"

Stupid portal will not let me upload!

Use the Advanced Search and plug in pdrayton ('s) name

TMAllison,

He even dares to take the shutoff lever off the side of the I.P.!

TMAllison · #10 03-02-2008, 01:10 AM

CI - I was referring moreso to the access plates on the side, bottom and back (eg: guts) of the typical IP, pending year/model. Peripheral devices are a different matter that are more easily understood by the informed DIY mech.

GregZ · #11 03-02-2008, 01:13 PM

Fixed. Took off the pneumatic valve but I did not see much. I had to take off the aluminum intake. Now that things became visible, I saw that the stop lever's L shaped actuator has dislocated from the valve that it is pulling on the inside. With some elbow-grease I put it back, and while I was at it, replaced the stop lever seal. Thanks all for the info (especially the shut-off valve thread).