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Replaced alternator, battery not charging, ???
I'm really struggling here. 1978 300D with 147000 miles. Thought it was battery at first. Checked it out at autozone and told it was bad. Replaced battery and drove for about a week, then no start situation again. Not charging per multimeter (voltage at 12.5, drops with load). Resistance from ground to block is o ohms. Replaced alternator after bench testing at autozone showed it to be bad as well (impatient, bought the alternator from NAPA instead of here), tightened belt and no difference in output at battery (ie 12.5 volts). WTF!
I suppose one of the replaced components is bad and needs to be checked. Any ideas or opinions appreciated. Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D Last edited by yellowbenz; 03-02-2008 at 07:55 PM. Reason: misspelling |
#2
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How long after starting the car did you wait to check the voltage? The glowplugs will draw current for 60-90 seconds. Try waiting 5 minutes or so and then check the voltage at the battery.
John
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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA) 2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion 1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold 2006 E320 CDI |
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Thanks, but it still isn't functioning. Thinking about connecting a jumper cable from one of the bolts on the alternator to the grounding post on the battery. Resigned to the fact that I'm going to have to take it off and have it checked. I just wish I could ascertain this before removing it from the car.
Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D |
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I've been chasing electrical problems. Low charge from alternator. took out and had tested @ Advance. Tested ok.
Insulation on wire about midway up wheelhouse has a cut and wire is corroded. Maybe something. Trace all wires. Check resistance from plug on back of alternator to terminal on top of wheelhouse (larger spade connectors @ alternator plug). Are your belts tight? How about the battery terminals? Clean? Tight? Do you have a "clamp-type" terminal holding your negative and/or positive wire at the battery? If so, examine condition of cable and retighten? Are you checking output at idle or at higher rpm? Worst case - pull the alternator and take in for a bench test. But check your wires closely. Hope you have a 17mm gear wrench - makes live much easier to remove those bolts. I'm getting pretty good at it. Even with the spacer at the top of the bracket - use another bolt at the rear of the bracket to hold the spacer in place.
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83 300d - 390k |
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I don't have the terminal box at the wheelhouse on this model (1978 300D). I was thinking about pulling the insulation wrap on the harness off the alternator and checking it. Difficult because of the damn servo. Thought about checking output at the alternator itself. Great idea about the bolt keeping the spacer in place. I nearly froze to death trying to get that bolt threaded (10 degrees and wind). Is it one output at the alternator and ground via the mount?
thanks Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D |
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Kevin - Sorry I didn't realize the terminal block was added during the production of these.
My alternator has a molded cap enclosing two large and one small female terminal. This fits onto spade terminals on the alternator. The two large terminals carry the voltage. I would still think you could test continuity from the spade terminals to the positive post of the battery. Yes, negative/ground is provided through the mount.
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83 300d - 390k |
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If the battery was nearly dead when you replaced the alternator, it won't have enough juice to energize the circuit that tells the alternator when to begin producing amperage. Charge the battery and try again, or try a different battery, just a basic thought that had me pissing up a rope until a helpful member of the forum clued me in.
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1985 300D Gretchen (Astral Silver) 220k 1983 240D 4-speed Evelyn (Orient Red) 203k TANSTAAFL |
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I had a similar charging issue that turned out to be a corroded cable (see this thread). My voltage drop was pretty drastic but the same test/solution could apply to you too. Check out those online 'voltage drop calculators' - it's pretty amazing how voltage drop increases with an undersized/corroded cable.
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Scott C. 2006 E320 CDI (120k miles) FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles) |
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I Think you might want to recheck the way you hooked the wires up. There is a chance that a wire didn't get connected and you are reading the battery voltage only.
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1977 300D Lost coolant while someone else was driving 1983 300D Can't run without oil 1985 300SD (gone but not forgotten) 1990 300TE 4matic Sold 1991 Yamaha Venture 1975 Kawsaki 250 triple 1974 Honda 200CL 1951 8N Ford 2008 Wildfire 650C |
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I measured the resistance from the connectors to the alternator to the power cable and it measured zero ohms for both. However, I noticed that the black plastic wrap around the harness has been opened in the past. Something else doesn't seem right on this car. There is a metal cylindrical object mounted on the firewall to the driver's side of the battery. It has three red wires attached to it. These travel off to the wiring harness and down to the starter. Its not present on my 1979 240D. It almost looks like an external voltage regulator. Does anybody have one of these on their car? I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.
Jeez, I hope this isn't some kind of mod. Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D |
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The part you describe might be a ford type starter solinoid. Sometimes wired in to overcome a problem with the trigger voltage for the starter. It is a semi cylindrical object with two heavy terminals one on each side and two small wire connections or only one as I cant remember for sure. Look for the presence of writing on it. Could be autolite brand for example.
Or have someone turn the ignition key to the starter position. You might hear it click on if lucky. Doubt it is an external voltage regulator. A bad rebuilt alternator is far from rare. Sure it might be something else but....If your old alternator tested bad at the store it is unlikely you had a second fault in the same circuit. Last edited by barry123400; 03-05-2008 at 12:49 AM. |
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I think you might be right Barry. It reminded me of something I saw on my parents old Ford Galaxy 500 when I was a kid. I think I remember my dad shorting across two of the terminals to start the car. I wasn't sure though because there is obviously another solenoid piggybacked onto the starter. I hope you are right. I'm probably going to just have to bite the bullet and pull/test the starter. Thanks for everybody's help so far. I've got to solve this so I can move on to all of the other things I need to fix on this car.
Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D |
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It's getting late. You did mean pull test the alternator. I would leave the starter circuit alone for now it does work well?
When the second solinoid is employed the one on the starter is still there and functional. The basic thrust of using the older type ford part is to overcome a low voltage situation that does not allow the starter to activate properly. Your memory of your fathers old ford sounds right. The size of the side terminals on the ford part are a givaway. The terminals are large to handle high current. Usually the studs sticking out of it are a bronze or copper color and the nuts cadium plated. Rust or time may have taken their toll though. Last edited by barry123400; 03-04-2008 at 11:54 PM. |
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Yeah, it's late, I meant the alternator.
Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D |
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Im very tired of the alternator going out on my 240d. (Third time this year) im scrapping the german part and getting a one wire alternator.
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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself. George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..) 1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won. pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt. |
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