The Oil Filter Housing for the String type Filters is the problem.

String Type Filters are used in industrial settings and the Filters are cheap compared to let us say an Amsoil Bypass Filter. However, the Filter Housings that are made for those filters are around $249 or more.

So, I made the Oil Filter Housing myself out of a section of Exhaust Pipe and cut the 1/2" Steel Plate with Hole Saws.

To say that sounds simple but it ended up being extremely labor intensive.
And, the labor intensive part is sad because I had wanted to be able to make the Oil Filter Housings and sell them as an alternative to the more expensive Bypass Oil Filters that are sold.

But, unless I find an easier/better/faster way to make the Oil Filter Housing I cannot sell them.
Also the way you change the Oil Filter is not suitable for a commercial product.
Because of the above I have not put any more effort in to making some until I can figure out a better way to do that.

So the easiest way to go is to buy a Filter Base to fit the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter and the related Hose and Fittings. On the low end that is about $30; on the High end about $40.

Unfortunately the smallest Amsoil Bypass may cost as much as $32 each. However, when ForcedInduction was a member He said that you will not be changing it often.

When a Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up when you feel the Oil return Hose that Hose will not be hot because there is no longer Oil passing through it.
So you could simply keep your Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter in use until it is plugged.

If you are willing to accept 5 nominal Microns of filtration you could use the Filter I started off using at the beginning of this thread. The Oil Filter used is a Bypass Oil Filter From Carrier Gen Sets. They are arouns $13 each.
5 nominal Microns of filtration is better than the 22 or more nominal mircons of filtration that the stock type Filter has.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Diesel911,
I like your filter housing setup. You should keep working on the manufacturing aspect of this until you can make a reasonably priced unit that will still make you a profit. I guess you would have to contract with the Chinese to do that. I would be curious to know more detail about how you built it and the materials you used, but I understand if you don't want to tell everything about it.

I don't like the idea of the oil line coming out of the filter housing lid. Seems cumbersome to me. I came out of the housing itself. The braided stainless bypass line is covered with the foam pipe insulation. The other line is braided stainless to replace the factory plastic oil pressure line. Pics below. And I prefer returning oil to the valve cover, over the timing chain...I think a little extra lube on that is a good thing. As you may know, my filter unit uses the tightly packed TP rolls. The problem I'm starting to have is finding good enough rolls, so I may need to switch to something similar to what you have someday. I appreciate you sharing your setup.

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Diesel-guy

Using the Housing has been suggested. You are the only one I know of who has done it.

What I am finding in general is that people seem shy away from drilling and tapping. And, if someone buggered up the Oil Filter Housing Top/Cap they could easily replace it; not so with the Main Oil Filter Housing.

I could have made removing the Oil Filter Top/Cap less cumbersome by using the fittings in the pics of the correct size. Maybe I will do that at a later date but it has not become an issue with me.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Are you using the Gulf Coast Elements are Toilet Paper?

Below is a pic of a Oil Guard Bypass Oil Filter that uses a String Wound Element. Racor appears to be putting their name on the Oil Guard bypass Filters and selling them.
The other pic is of some Vintage Amsoil Bypass Oil Filters. Not sure what the Elements are made of. It is most likely stacked Discs of Felt but it actually looks like Leather.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What keeps the end caps from leaking?

That is a good question. I was supposed to source out square cross section O-rings but never did.

The first time I put it together I filled the O-ring grooves with Silicon Sealant. I did that because I thought I might have to make some further modifications on it so I needed it to be easy to take apart.

When I changed the Filter I decided to Epoxy the Filter Base with JB Weld but am still using the Silicon Sealant on the Top Cap where I pull out the Filter.
I thought about welding the Base to the Tube but it was clear that it was going to end up for my own personal use and I did not feel like dragging out my Welder.

All of the above seems a little rinky dink but it works and I do not mind doing it.
Like I said in previous posts the Oil Filter Housing is not ready for any sort of commercial sales and it is certainly going to take some major redesign to make it so.

Another issue is that if you take a look at the Filter Element you see that the inner Tube needs extends beyond the Element. That tube needs to go into a groove on both of the end Cams and there has to be enough compression on the Sting part of the Element to seal it.
That took some careful measuring and when the Element is inserted you have to make sure the Tube goes into the groovs (it needs something betgter to guide the Tube into the grooves).

I keep searching eBay for a commercial Filter Housing (they call it a Filter Vessel) so I can see how it is really supposed to be done but so far they are too expensive.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hey Forced - just curious, when you use a bypass setup does the oil appearance change dramatically or does it still remain quite black and sooty -been wondering about this for some time -thanks

D911, is your string wound filter the same size as the whole house water filters? Would you use a whole house water filter housing if they were the same size?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Thie dimensions are on that pic back in post #28.

The Water Filter Housings I have seen have been Plastic. The Oil gets hotter than Water and the Oil Pressure is also Higher (out her the Water pressure is 60 PSI).
Also I believe the Water Filters have some nice rubbery End Cap on the Element to seal on.

The Material that the Watter Filters and maybe the Plastic Housings are made of is also not compatiable with hot Oil.

Do a search Google for String Wound Filters. There is all kinds and different types of String and some have those end Caps (and the Elements cost more).

Here is a Stainless Steel Water Filter Housing on eBay for $84+$12 shipping. I do not know if the inards match the String Wound Filter; but it does say it is rated for 150psi.
And I think the Cost is a little High if you have to modify it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Filter-Housing-10-stainless-steel-HydroGenics-/190509350979?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5b3e0043

I would like to see one to see what is inside. Perhaps a cheaper used one would show up on eBay some time.
I spent less than $15 in materials to make the Housing I had. In the eBay ad the Seller said the normal price = "WW Grainger for Cuno #SS1, $185 each"

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm still using Toilet Paper for elements. Hard to beat the price of "Scott 1000" or similar. But, like I mentioned before, I'm having a harder time finding good TP lately. Some are making the center tube bigger as a deception to make more money. If the center tube is too big, it wont seal up and filter like it should.

I don't recommend the "Gulf Coast" filter. The basic design is excellent, but they made it out of plastic, and I can't get the 1/8 pipe fitting(s) on the bottom to fully seal up. I think the plastic expands and contracts with the heat cycle and loosens the pipe seal. It's only seepage but I hate leaks. If they had just made it out of cast aluminum, it would be one of the best filters housings out there.

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Diesel-guy

You Could try at the next Filter Changer removing the Fitting, degreasing both outer and inner Threads and coating the fitting threads with Silicone Sealant.
I also think Copper Kote Gasket gasket sealer would work.

I am not sure this would work or not; but, they have the same types of fittings (harder to find) that have straight Pip Thread on the end. On the Straight Pipe Fittings is a Nut, Washer and O-ring to do the sealing.

The advantage of the Straight Pipe is that it when you are using something like an Elbow it can be turned int the position you need it to be in and you tighten the Nut and it seals.
The tapered Pipe has to be turned in far enough to seal and that may happen in a position you do not want the Eblbow to be in.

Somtimes the Teflon Pipe Sealing Liquid/past works when the Tape does not.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

1 pic shows the housing and Element and the other shows where I mounted it.

The last 2 pics show what the Filter looked like after being used for 1 year with an 1 Oil Change during that time but the Bypass Filter Element not changed till today.

In the last pic on the right you can see some thing has built up on the out side of the Filter element showing that the Filter is working.[/QUOTE]

D911, think I'm going to use your idea for a return line, makes perfect reasoning!
That way the return is giving extra lubrication to the chain, some may make it around & back to the top of the engine.

What is the thread & size of that bolt? Did you replace the bolt w a fitting?

Thanks,
Dave

D911, think I'm going to use your idea for a return line, makes perfect reasoning!
That way the return is giving extra lubrication to the chain, some may make it around & back to the top of the engine.

What is the thread & size of that bolt? Did you replace the bolt w a fitting?

Thanks,
Dave[/QUOTE]

Since the time I did mine I found an old thread by one of our Members who used the Plug on the Fuel Injection Pump Governor for the return Oil.
That is easier to do and it is fat enough for a 1/8" pipe threads.
All that nice clean Oil goes inside of the Fuel Injection Pump.

When I did the Bolt on mine I removed it used my Thread Gauge and to find the size and bought another Bolt.
The diameter of the Bolt is too small for a 1/8" pipe tap so I drilled out the Bolt and JB Welded a 1/4 inch Tube in side of it to act as the Nipple.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Can you tell what kind of oil pressure you are getting from the supply lline/fitting you installed on top? If it is anywhere 30-50 psi, that's ideal to turn the centrifuge 3-4K rpm and return the clean via the valve cover. Also, what kind of oil pressure are you reading with the sending unit you installed.

Buy the way I have a different Bypass Oil Filter on there now. See post #26.

I have never checked it but I should get the same Oil pressure as is in the Oil Filter Housing that I tapped into.
On the my Turbo 617 I get a max Oil pressure of 97 psi with the Engine revvved up (I checked that right in the center of the Oil Filter Cap where I drilled into the Cap to tap the Oil for the bypass Oil Filter) and at hot idle I get 1.5 bar so that is around 29 psi.
The Manual claims that the Oil Pressure Relief Valve in the Oil Pump will open at 110 psi. So that is your max possible Oil Pressure.
That is for the Turbo 617s.

So as long as you are not idling on my Engine there is plenty of Oil Pressure to operate the Centrifugal Oil Filter.

At idle I don't know. It could be it would bleed off too much Oil pressure at idle. You won't know until you try.
There is a restricted Fitting in the Bypass Oil Filter setup so that it does not bleed off too much Oil Pressure at idle.

Maybe you need to fabricate a small pressure valve that will open only if the Oil Pressure is over 35 psi. That would simply mean that you Centrifugal Oil filter would not be working at idle speeds but would keep you from bleeding off too much pressure.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel