I just rebuilt a rear leveling suspension valve on a 1981 wagon. Hooked it up and NO WORKIE! I wasn't getting any oil out of the bleeder on the valve. Before I tore the valve down and rebuilt it, I would only get a small trickle of oil from the valve with the engine running.
Anyhow.... I checked the return line at the oil resevoir under the hood while the engine was running and little to no oil was returning to the tank. The tank was half full by the way. I moved the top radiator hose out of the way to expose the pump mounted on the head. I looked carefully and the OIL FEED hose from the oil resevoir tank right where it slips on to the intake pipe of the pump was rot cracked! I trimed back the hose and reinstalled it on the pump.
WAH-LAH...... The pump sucked in the oil and the suspension works!
You guys know the song that goes " One thing leads to another"? Well I got under the back of the car to attach the valve linkage and saw oil leaking at one of the hard lines up under the car. Seems that rust had weakened the line enough and when the suspension started working, the line gave it up!

Good old MURPHY is alive and well!!!

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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

Good luck with fixing it. Here's my thread on splicing my rotted SLS lines. It's possible with the subframe in place, but much easier with it dropped.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=205468

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys