I broke the hard plastic line right where it connects to the banjo fitting. I'd like to just put the old banjo fitting onto the old line and reconnect. What is the best way to get the fitting into the hardline. Do you heat it? Thanks

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

I just replaced mine there pretty cheap but I would try putting the end in boiling water and try it has worked for me on other lines.

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84 300 Turbo / 320,000
96 E300 D / 55,000

Can you use new regular fuel line?

Replace the line. At its age there is no way you are going to get it in there without destroying the line.

I used a vacuum connector.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I heated the barbed end with a propane torch medium hot and stuck it back into the plastic tube using pliers.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

That old plastic line get really brittle with heat and age. when mine broke I temporarly (about 4 yrs ago) used a piece of the clear plastic line like used on fish tanks. so far so good.
It runs from the switch over valve to the ALDA. the plastic vacuum thing next to the ALDA, I used a piece from the top of it to the green check valve. about 3 inches.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

1984 300d Turbo 146k
Order The New Line With Banjo Connector **************.com

I figure I'll try heating the barb and inserting it. I really want to avoid replacing the line because the switchover valve on my car is very difficult to access... I'd probably break another line in the process. If the hot barb method doesn't work I'll by a new one I guess.

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

Actually regular fuel line snipping makes an excellent collar/sleeve to solve the problem - fits snug over broken fuel line end, fits tight over banjo neck w/ broken bit of clear air line still attached.

I snapped one at a bad time to be able to get a replacement line, and ended up patching it with a section of silicone vacuum tubing that I had sitting around.

It was a very tight fit to get the small silicone hose over the larger nylon boost sense line, but it fit, and has been operating decently well since.
I suppose I should get around to replacing it properly, though!

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

I've got some extra "leak line"(for fuel return lines), would that work w/o a pair of clamps.

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

Anything like that will work, as long as it fits snugly so it doesn't leak or come apart. You should really re-consider replacing it with the proper material due to the heat on that side of the engine. If you do use an alternative material, check it for cracks and leaks when you change your oil.

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles