|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
1990 300D W124 - Front Suspension Help Needed
I have read numerous posts about suspension issues but none with my exact symptoms, so I thought I would ask...
For a few weeks I have heard a clunking noise which sounds like it is coming from the rear when going over speed bumps. There have been no handling problems up until yesterday. This sound may or may not be related...read on. Yesterday coming home, I noticed as I was slowing to a stop, a clicking noise coming from the front passenger side. I got on the interstate and the car felt like it was swaying at speeds over 70 mph. Off the interstate, taking off from a stop, it sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise from the same area. I thought it might have been steering related. Power steering fluid is full. I checked for vertical play in the wheels. The front passenger wheel moved about 1/4 inch when I grabbed the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. I bounced up and down on the front right corner and it made a clicking type noise. There is a little play in the steering wheel, but it has been like that since I have owned it. All steering and suspension components look original. 1990 300d with 170K miles. I am going to work on my problem this weekend and would appreciate any assistance on where to concentrate my diagnostic efforts. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. Nigel
__________________
1990 300D - 171K miles http://nrl073.googlepages.com/DSCN66...646-medium.jpg http://nrl073.googlepages.com/DSCN66...654-medium.jpg |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Either the tie rod end, or.. the idler arm. But really you just need to get under there and check out everything as best you can.
I had the same kind of observation on my car once. Turned out the idler arm bushing was shot and allowing the arm to move vertically. Replaced it (again) and that seemed to fix the problem. It caused about the same direction and magnitude of motion in the passenger front wheel. When driving, the car would follow ruts on the right side of the lane a lot more so than ruts on the left side of the lane.
__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
It does sounds like something in the steering linkages, if you get 1/4 inch of side-to-side play. Have a helper yank on the tire (3 & 9 o'clock) while you watch every pivot joint, and also the idler arm. Assuming none of those parts have been replaced recently, you should replace ALL of the parts - they're cheap enough that it's not worth just changing the stuff that's obviously bad. Check the ball joints, make sure they are not worn, but anyway - for a full steering rebuild, you need:
Left tie rod assembly Right tie rod assembly Drag/center link Steering shock Idler arm rebuild kit All of the above should be about $200 total, plus installation, plus $100 for a DEALER alignment (please, do not get the car aligned anywhere except at a Mercedes dealership - trust me on this.) The clunk over speed bumps could be something in the rear suspension links, or a bad rear shock, or a bad front ball joint (but the ball joints usually are more of a "click" than a "clunk". |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Also check the rear lower control arm bushing. If the rubber ends of the bushing are split, cracked open I would definately replace. They will cause a creaking sound in the rear. Jack the rear up, remove the plastic covers off
the control arms and check them out. They take the stress of the control arm. Not expensive and if you check the tool rental program someone has the tool to remove/install. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
UPDATE - Front suspension/brake issue
Thanks for all the replies and useful suggestions. Here is the latest:
I did what you all suggested and cannot find any play in any of the linkages. I had a friend come over and he yanked on the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock while I checked everything underneath - no movement in any of the joints. We pulled the wheel off and it is apparent that the play is in the brake rotor. It is actually less than 1/4 inch, probably more like an 1/8. There was some drag from the pads. The rotors do not feel warped however - there is no pulsation when braking. I spun the wheel a few times and then we put the wheel back and took her for a low speed drive - no noises anymore????? So my question now is this - could the play in the rotor cause the swaying feeling at high speed? Do any of you know why or how this play exists and how I might fix it? Thanks again, Nigel
__________________
1990 300D - 171K miles http://nrl073.googlepages.com/DSCN66...646-medium.jpg http://nrl073.googlepages.com/DSCN66...654-medium.jpg |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Wheel bearing adjustment.
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
The rotor needs to be clamped to the hub by the wheel lug bolts. If you had the rotor tightly clamped to the hub, and there was still play, then the likely cause would be the wheel bearing adjustment. You should get the same play up & down (6 & 12), as well as side to side (3 & 9), though.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, I do get the same play at 6/12 as well as 3/9. I will investigate the wheel bearing. Thanks.
__________________
1990 300D - 171K miles http://nrl073.googlepages.com/DSCN66...646-medium.jpg http://nrl073.googlepages.com/DSCN66...654-medium.jpg |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
hELP
jEESh I have also the same problem, I thought I wont and can never find a solution for the noise that I am hearing... Yay! i know this is a bit late, but this post really helps!
______________________ Heard about Pulse Star Plugs ??? |
Bookmarks |
|
|