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602 hydraulic lifter replacement (300D 2.5T) - DIY? advice needed
Hello. Ive searched for this but I couldnt find anything too relevant. Alot on the 603 engine however.
My problem is, I have a loud "ticky" lifter that comes and goes, and its very annoying (to me anyways). Sometimes once its warm, it will go away, sometimes not. I really just want to replace all 10 of them and silence the ticks. I know that the camshaft has to come out. Can anyone tell me or point me in the right direction on the steps to do this? Im very mechanical, but is this something that should be left to the pro's? Ive never taken a cam out before. Im eager to tackle new jobs. Are there any special tools that are required. Any insight is GREATLY appreciated. A DIY would be great. Also, how do you tell if the camshaft should be replaced? Visual inspection or is there a measurement? Thanks for all the help!
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93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K 09 E350 Black/Black 41K |
#2
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Lifters
See the PM
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#3
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I'd like some info as well, as I'll be getting ready to do the same on mine this summer. There's one that just won't shut up even on M1
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Dale http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...MG_2277sig.jpg 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k 2000 E430 - 103k 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k 2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel 2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel |
#4
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If the M1 won't shut it up...
1.'Get the Factory Service Manual (on 2 CDs )
(Mercedes Classic Center,"Google" it or call 1-800-222-0100).You will need it. 2. DIY dooable BUT,You Must Maintain tension on The timing Chain(and secure the Chain to the Camshaft Sprocket at the same time)[Hint: Tie Wraps at least 6 of them.] 3. You must follow the Factory specified R+R schedule for the "Cam Towers" so that you DO NOT distort (AND BREAK) the Camshaft. All the information may be available on this forum, But the FSM comes in handy forever! [You're going to loosen the nut securing the Camshaft Sprocket to the Camshaft,Then wiggle the Camshaft out Backwards,After removing the Cam Towers,and removing(thereby slackening...AND resetting)the Chain Tension(er).]
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 01-02-2009 at 05:20 PM. |
#5
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So if im reading this right, the timing chain doesnt move at all? The cam sprocket doesnt get removed from the cam? Do you removed the chain tensioner? I wish someone had pics...excuse my ignorance...
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93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K 09 E350 Black/Black 41K |
#6
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I did this job last fall. It's not too hard - just take your time and be careful.
Here's an approximate set of instructions. I don't guarantee that they are complete so please use common sense if you choose to follow them.
There are no special tools needed other than a variety of metric sockets and a torque wrench.
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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD |
#7
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Excellent summary, Cornblatt. It is imperative that you use Zip ties to attach the chain to the sprocket, or you WILL be sorry. The spring action of the vac pump cam may "pull" the chain into the cavity when the sprocket comes off the cam, don't have a heart attack, that's normal. If it happens, you'll have to yank pretty hard to pull it back up to re-attach the sprocket. Follow the cam bolt procedure carefully or you will break the camshaft. Finally, the oil passage exit is located at the rear of the head, near the top, on the driver's side of the car... there is a small, hex-socket plug that is the rear of the oil galley that feeds the lifters. Remove this plug and blow compressed air into each of the 10 oil feed holes in each lifter bore. You can also poke a paper clip or other small wire into each hole to ensure they are clear.
That said, I replaced all 10 of my lifters last December. This did quiet down the racket, but did not eliminate it, which confused me greatly. A month later, the head gasket failed (visible blue smoke, compression on cyl #1 way low, oil in #1 cylinder). It turned out that the gasket had been failing for a while, and bits of gasket debris had entered the oil galley feeding the lifters. The debris had blocked oil passages to a couple of the lifters! That's why even the NEW ones were noisy!! After a new head gasket was installed, AND the oil passages were fully cleaned out, the new lifters are totally silent (I also use Mobil Delvac-1, btw.) All the photos of my 602 head gasket job are at this link. A couple of samples are below. |
#8
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Cornblatt,
Thanks so much for that informative write up. It looks like you covered pretty much everything. I have one question though. When you go to re-attach the cam sprocket to the cam, is that a keyed shaft? I guess my question is, is there a possibility of attaching it back and having it be off by a tooth or two? Does it even have teeth? Do you know what im trying to say? Also, gsxr, do you have a pic of the oil galley that you have to apply compressed air to? So is there 10 plugs that you have to remove and do that procedure to all? Also, how do you tell if you need a new cam? Thanks so much for your help guys. This is all excellent information.
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93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K 09 E350 Black/Black 41K |
#9
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Quote:
Also, you may feel concerned when you take off the sprocket and feel the slack in the chain, but don't worry because the engine has pins to hold the chain against the IP sprocket and crankshaft sprocket, so it's not possible for the chain to fall off either of those two sprockets. The chain can only get misaligned at the camshaft sprocket, which is why you must securely attach the chain to it. It's unlikely that you'd need a new camshaft. Check for scoring or wear on the lobes. After 230,000+ miles mine had no noticeable wear at all.
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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD Last edited by cornblatt; 03-18-2008 at 02:06 PM. |
#10
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Quote:
For the oil galley, no, it's a single plug at the rear of the head casting, externally. It will be the only 5mm hex plug in the rear of the head. The 10 holes are inside the lifter bores... you can't see the 10 holes until you remove the 10 lifters. The holes are maybe 2-3mm diameter or so, one little hole per lifter bore, on the driver's side of the head. These are what feed pressurized oil to the lifters when the engine is running. |
#11
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Lifter R+R
cornblatt,
Thank you for the Extra Effort! Excellent write up!
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#12
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When I pull the cross-over piped off, is there an o-ring or seal i should replace where it detaches on the passenger side (above the turbo)? There are no bolts there so i assume it just pulls out one you remove the two allens from the other end.
Again, great summary guys, I plan to do this in a few weeks.
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93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K 09 E350 Black/Black 41K |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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Could you explain how to make sure the engine is at TDC? Does the valve cover have to be off to verify, or can you just rotate the crankshaft until the marks are lined up? I'm sure this is a dumb question but Ive never had to turn an engine to TDC. How many cycles does it go through for one turn on the crankshaft, mark to mark?
Thanks!
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93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K 09 E350 Black/Black 41K |
#15
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Here's what I usually do...
Remove the valve cover. Get a long breaker bar with a socket that fits on the big bolt in the center of the crankshaft pulley. I think it's something like 27mm (but I don't really remember). Using the breaker bar, slowly turn the crankshaft pulley in the direction of normal engine rotation. You'll be working against the compression in the cylinders so it may be difficult at times; don't go too fast. On the 601/602, if you look at the uppermost section of the serpentine belt (the part that's easiest to see) it will move from passenger side to driver's side if you're going the right way. See the attached diagram for the direction. There are timing marks on the camshaft and first camshaft bearing cap (closest to the front of the engine). There is also a pointer and some markings on the crankshaft pulley. Turn the engine and stop when the timing marks line up on the camshaft and bearing cap, AND when the crankshaft pointer points to the 0T mark. I've attached a few photos...
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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD |
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