Excessive Oil Consumption on 616 and 617 Diesel Engines - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stevo · #31 04-08-2008, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dionysius

Fix #2 Retrieved from old MB documents and supposedly an "Official MB Fix".....But I have not seen any "oil baffle plate" inside my Valve Covers so can someone help me here by explaining what they are talking about. Some pictures would be more than welcome. Here it is:
This fix is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve cover off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has been fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing, you'll see about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply epoxy. Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tight /NAPA 5-minute epoxy. It does an excellent job and is oil resistant.

I find it baffling no one has answered your "baffle" question, sorry, couldnt help myself

On the passenger side of your valve cover, below the 90 degree plastic L bow
is the baffle. The fwd end is where the sealant is needed, the other end is open.

Okieone · #32 04-08-2008, 09:05 PM

Since I didn't get banished for my post on pre-lubing the oil filter, I'll throw my advice in again, be certain you are not over filling your engine. When I purchased my 123, it was a mess, oil leaks, and high oil consumption, but it ran great. I noticed that if I checked the oil level after a few minutes, or even a half an hour, it appeared low, and would add oil appropriately, but something didn't make since. I started raising the hood and pulling the dipstick out a little when I parked in the evening. The next morning I would check the level, and it showed to be much higher then the previous evening, so I ran with that. Let the oil level settle overnight and then check it, and fill appropriately. My oil consumption dropped to a half a quart between oil changes (3000 miles) and the oil leaks have pretty much all dried up. Now, having said that, I'll give my standard disclaimer to avoid being banished,.....(forgive me Father, for I have sinned).
I'm not trying to sell anything, or standing on a soapbox screaming. I'm just trying to keep my 617 alive a little longer and maybe yours to, but I do know that Diesel engines overfilled with oil will die an early death.

LET THE FLAMES BEGIN, (again)

t walgamuth · #33 04-08-2008, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dionysius

Based on what I see I tend to agree with this point of view. Are the Toyota engines also diesel?? And what is their life relative to Benz??

I think a well cared for na engine will probably run 500k with ease before burning excessive oil.

Tom W

jibsheet · #34 11-20-2008, 04:37 AM

excellent thread - I've got a 78 300D non-turbo engine (no oil separator) that seems to have lots of positive crankcase pressure (oil pouring out pcv tube rubbers at the valve cover and intake manifold - oil coming out of the altitude compensator on top of the injection pump). The car starts and runs great (florida, though). Am I missing some kind of breather filter, clogged air filter, etc. ? It just seems that it runs too well for what I suspect may be the problem (massive blowby that I'm wishing away

). Thanks, Ned (78 300CD).

#35 11-20-2008, 05:09 AM

There are no filters or valves. Its a plain tube from the valve cover to the air filter.

jibsheet · #36 11-29-2008, 07:19 AM

Yep, blowby pressure

. Slapped a Ford aftermarket breather in place of the oil cap and boom, problem fixed !

argus445 · #37 11-29-2008, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otto huber

I recently spoke with a diesel mechanic from Ireland who thinks that Americans over rate their Mercedes diesel engines. He says that they are usually good for about 200,000 to 250,000 miles before they start burning excessive amounts of oil, and that a lot of guys in Europe will replace their Mercedes engines with Toyota engines rather than rebuild.

Otto
'79 240D 4spd

Having had a number of higher mileage engines i've always got at least 300K out of the old vw 1.6L they run at alot higher rpm (redline @ 82-85mph) if i cant get that out of this mb td i would be sad very very sad lol.

t walgamuth · #38 11-29-2008, 09:38 AM

around 275K to 300K the turbo motors tend to lose seal on the head gaskets. At that time upper end work is usually needed and perhaps sleeves and rings. But the bottom end is normally as new at that point.

The na engines tend to wear a lot longer without attention.

pawoSD · #39 11-29-2008, 09:56 AM

My SD has 277k and burns (or leaks, most loss is probably leaks) so little oil that I usually don't even have to add any between 4k changes. My dad's has 301k and burns perhaps even less than that! So both burn less than half a quart per 4000 miles. My brothers 300D with 232k on it uses NO oil at all between 4k changes....that motor runs like a clock. I found the cause of my oil loss to be my oil pan gasket. After I changed it I went from 1.5-2 quarts per 4k to less than half a quart.

otto huber · #40 11-29-2008, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jibsheet

Yep, blowby pressure

. Slapped a Ford aftermarket breather in place of the oil cap and boom, problem fixed !

Do you have a picture of that application? What's the part # ?

Thanks

jibsheet · #41 12-10-2008, 04:54 PM

Hi Otto - I actually made a mistake - it's a GM breather. Ford/GM/Chrysler - all the same to me and never owned any of them ... BUT (I tend to oversimplify and get excited

) it still drips oil after a highway run. Damn. The fundamental problem of course isn't the positive air but oil laden vapor. Naturally I'm thinking about the oil separator thingy on the earlier cars but to that trouble, might as well change the engine. Happen to have a non-turbo motor out of an 85 300D (I think it was a middle eastern car). But then of course the parallel glow plug wiring et-al will have to come along with it - I do tend to dig holes for myself

. Short answer - aftermarket chrome GM breather is not acceptable - hits the hood foam too. Cheers, Ned

hobberslobbers · #42 04-28-2010, 09:54 PM

sorry for jumping onto an old, but very informative and interesting thread, but I have good cylinder compression readings on my 300D (101K miles), new valve stem seals, newly adjusted valves... and i now have more positive pressure in the valve cover and more oil usage than ever before. i suspect a toasted valve since the pressure went up AFTER adjusting the valves. maybe i'm thinking wrong on this one, but does anyone have any additional ideas on my situation?

layback40 · #43 04-28-2010, 10:24 PM

If you had a bad valve you would expect missing at idle.
Best you check you valve adjustment.
Is the car due for an oil change?
Are you running alternate fuels?
Could you have a stuck or damaged oil control ring?
How much oil are you using?
What were the compression test results?
Could you have a bad seal on your turbo?

Cr from Texas · #44 04-29-2010, 02:26 AM

Check for a blocked or partially blocked check valve on the oil seperator return line. Remove the aircleaner and pour new motor oil down the tube. If it fills to the top, it's at least partially blocked causing oil to go into the combustion air stream. I was able to clear mine by filling with oil and applying a few psi of pressure to the top of the tube. I now pour a couple of oz this way when I do an oil change. No proof, but I think it helps keep it from getting blocked by soot.

pawoSD · #45 04-29-2010, 07:09 AM

My SD is now at 294k and still burns almost nothing between changes.