Injection Pump Removal on OM606 for Bosch Service - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jwilson76239 · #1 03-25-2008, 02:14 AM

Hi all,
I have some questions which I hope someone here will be able to answer.
I have replaced my IP delivery Valve seals (per FSM technique) with Viton, and upon reassembly it no longer works.
Specifically, the third delivery valve from the back.
If I loosen the nut on the corresponding injector, the engine runs smoothly on the remaining five cylinders.
Otherwise, its black smoke and an engine that shudders and seems to want to explode.
I believe that this DV is injecting way too much fuel now.
I swapped injectors to make sure it wasn't that, but with the same result.
I know from reading posts here that the delivery valves are very sensitive to their position within the IP, so I must have moved the offending DV inadvertently when reinstalling the it's DV Holder.

I would like to remove the Injection Pump and take it to my local Bosch service center, which is certified in all types of Bosch inline pumps.
My questions are:
Has anyone else done this and if so could you share some of the details and the outcome? Specifically:
After the diagnosis and repairs, will the pump be returned to me locked in the same position I gave it to them in (start of delivery)?
I ask this because the locking nut and "special sleeve" required for this job are relatively cheap, while the wrench needed to turn the IP camshaft while it is out of the engine is rather expensive. Obviously, I would rather not purchase it if not necessary.
Also, if I need to rotate the IP camshaft back to start of delivery with this wrench, how do I know where this is?
Are there markings in the IP camshaft like there are on the engine crank, or does the locking nut, one inserted, allow the IP camshaft to be rotated until S.O.D and then lock, preventing further rotation?
Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

pimpernell · #2 03-25-2008, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwilson76239

Hi all,
I have some questions which I hope someone here will be able to answer.

I have replaced my IP delivery Valve seals (per FSM technique) with Viton, and upon reassembly it no longer works.
Specifically, the third delivery valve from the back.
If I loosen the nut on the corresponding injector, the engine runs smoothly on the remaining five cylinders.
Otherwise, its black smoke and an engine that shudders and seems to want to explode.
I believe that this DV is injecting way too much fuel now.
I swapped injectors to make sure it wasn't that, but with the same result.
I know from reading posts here that the delivery valves are very sensitive to their position within the IP, so I must have moved the offending DV inadvertently when reinstalling the it's DV Holder.
I would like to remove the Injection Pump and take it to my local Bosch service center, which is certified in all types of Bosch inline pumps.
My questions are:
Has anyone else done this and if so could you share some of the details and the outcome?
Specifically:
After the diagnosis and repairs, will the pump be returned to me locked in the same position I gave it to them in (start of delivery)?
I ask this because the locking nut and "special sleeve" required for this job are relatively cheap, while the wrench needed to turn the IP camshaft while it is out of the engine is rather expensive. Obviously, I would rather not purchase it if not necessary.
Also, if I need to rotate the IP camshaft back to start of delivery with this wrench, how do I know where this is?
Are there markings in the IP camshaft like there are on the engine crank, or does the locking nut, one inserted, allow the IP camshaft to be rotated until S.O.D and then lock, preventing further rotation?
Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

I know from reading some of the forum posts, that there is a specific sequence that must be followed when you decide to remove the IP.
I am not that well versed in that area, so I will leave it up to more experienced posters to address that question.
The one thing I would suggest, if you haven't already tried it, is to redo the offending delivery valve, but prior to putting it back together, give it a good inspection to insure that there is no foreign object obstructing the valve itself.
I do not believe it is possible to do that job without moving the delivery valve components.
When I did mine, I took out the spring, and delivery valve, and made sure that the collar down below was in the proper orientation.
Parrot of doom did an excellent DIY piece a short time ago and provided a pictorial.
In it, he stressed that when you start to screw in the top part of the valve, that you "rock" it as much as possible while turning it so that the internal valve parts can seat themselves properly......
Good luck

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM606DeliveryValveSeals

gsxr · #3 03-25-2008, 06:40 PM

The link above is helpful if you want to try replacing the delivery valve O-rings. But please clean the top of the IP meticulously, not like the grungy mess shown in the photos on that thread - ugh. Note that the special torque procedure was never mentioned in that writeup (30Nm, release, 30Nm, release, final torque 30-35Nm.)

Anyway, to remove the IP to take it to a shop, you will need the "basket" to install after the vacuum pump is removed (remember the left-hand thread on the bolt!), this holds the timer in place while the pump is out of the engine. Second, you need the IP lock tool in order to properly R&R the pump... yeah, it could be done without it, but I sure wouldn't risk it just to save $30. You rotate the engine to approx 15° ATDC (with the #1 cam lobes upward, valves closed!), then you gently insert the lock tool, twisting the shaft... you can feel when it engages. You may need to turn the crank slightly one way or t'other in order for it to engage. Now the pump is locked at start of delivery. Don't turn the engine while the pump is out of the car!

With the pump out of the car, you can turn the shaft by using pliers on the end, with a rag over the splines to protect them from damage. The shaft turns easily (you DID remove the lock tool before trying to turn the shaft, right?) When it's all done, re-install and set the IP timing to 14° ATDC. This is all in the FSM.

A photo of the lock tool is below. I need to take a photo of the basket tool:

79300sdtd · #4 03-25-2008, 06:50 PM

dave is right correct... the bolt behind the vacuum pump is a left handed bolt. and i think there are 3 others, one is below the IP and can be a bugger, one behind and one on the drivers side. i have only took them out foe people at boneyards

gsxr · #5 03-26-2008, 11:27 AM

New photos:

nhdoc · #6 03-26-2008, 01:33 PM

Have you opened up that DV and looked in it? It is possible that when you re-assembled it that the spring/crush washer didn't seat correctly. Before I would consider removing the IP for service I would check that DV and try to put it together again. I think you can, if you are not careful, mis-position the crush washer so it impedes the operation of the plunger part. Do yourself a favor and look at it once more before throwing in the towel!

What have you got to lose...it only takes a few minutes to look in there.

Olivier · #7 11-02-2010, 07:35 AM

Could I get a bit more "how to do it" on this please?
I can not picture where the left hand bolt is? To me it looks like it's behind the IP then why is there a need to slacken it ( bolt #19) in order to remove the pump?
Thank you.
Olivier

Bill Ladd · #8 11-02-2010, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olivier

I canno picture where the left hand bolt is?

#19 is the left hand bolt.

engatwork · #9 11-02-2010, 08:10 AM

I have done the same job and created an issue with the ip where I had to remove it and take it to the Bosch repair shop to be repaired. When I dropped the barrell down into the cylinder I did not have the pin properly aligned. The shop had to remove the side cover and thankfully there was enough pin to slid it out enough to catch again. Removal/installation is easy with the tools as already pointed out above.

You will need to know what position the ip is in when you put it into position.

Olivier · #10 11-02-2010, 08:11 AM

Thanks, I know this but I cannot picture where it is? Is it behing the pump and can be seen only once its removed, if so why do I need to play with it then?
Cheers.

Bill Ladd · #11 11-02-2010, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olivier

Thanks, I know this but I cannot picture where it is? Is it behing the pump and can be seen only once its removed, if so why do I need to play with it then?
Cheers.

All this will be revealed once you remove the vacuum pump.

That bolt attaches the injector pump to the timing gear. You cannot remove the pump without removing that bolt. The timing gear stays in the timing chamber. Install the basket as gsxr has already described.

Olivier · #12 11-02-2010, 08:27 AM

Ahh... Thank you. I would have tried to pull it out without playing with the bolt... and it would have been a disaster...
Is the vacuum pump the lift pump? Like on the picture?
Sorry, I know noting there and its going to be a new learning experience...
Cheers.
Olivier
I forgot, what size it the #19 left bolt?

gsxr · #13 11-02-2010, 10:05 AM

The vacuum pump is on the front of the engine and looks like this. It must be removed:

Olivier · #14 11-02-2010, 11:13 AM

Oh... Thank you.
I'll take a wee look soon.
As I said its going to be a new learning experince...
It look like it make a wee more sense now. The space is tight there tho... Humm...
Does the whole assembly need to be remove or just the front plate?
Cheers.
Olivier

gsxr · #15 11-02-2010, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olivier

As I said its going to be a new learning experince...
It look like it make a wee more sense now. The space is tight there tho...
Does the whole assembly need to be remove or just the front plate?

The entire vacuum pump must be removed. The front plate does not come off the pump. It may help to drain the cooling system and remove the upper radiator hose to get more access. It will also be easier to remove the injection pump if you remove the entire intake manifold as well.