Ok, before some of you curmudgeons jump on my back, yes, I've read Robert's tech write up here:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BallJoint. As well as about 6 or 7 different ball joint threads. That said, here's my problem: I've ground down the ball joint removal sleeve like the writeup above recommended, but even with the c-frame stabilized and me wrenching the ball joint down with a socket wrench and a breaker/cheater bar, I am still unable to pop the ball joint off. here's what it looked like when I attempted to push the bj out w/ an unmodified sleeve:



As you can see as denoted in the red line, the angle that the control arm sits in the sleeve is not 90 degrees but probably around 60 degrees or such. The angle in green represents nearly a 90 degree angle. Also, if you look carefully under the CA, you will see I drew a green box. I cut that piece out so that the CA sits more at a 90 degree angle. While I got the CA to sit better in the sleeve, it did not help much. So here are my questions:

1) does the tip of the ball joint need to be lined up with and pressed out 90degs? this would mean id have to shave that receiver part even more

2) How hard do these thigns pop out? I mean, are you exerting alot of pressure?

Thanks,
Bob

The sleeve needs to be smaller so that only the ball-joint fits down the sleeve and the control arm is supported. Yes, the 90degree angle is optimum.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I dunno about W124 and mine were certainly special (rocket scientist welded them in) however it took 2 5ft cheater bars and helping hands to pop mine. Try packing it in dry ice first.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

My method: Use a axle jack (on conrete floor, mind you) located as far outboard as possible under the lower control arm. Get is as closs to the LBJ as you can. Cut off the threaded portion of ball joint. Pound it out with 10lb sledge hammer. Took about 30 to 40 blows, be really carefull not to hit your fender on the up swing.

Next time: I'll pay the man to do it.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Jeff,

Ok, i'll have to fab some kind of sleeve as the one size smaller is too small

bob

An impact socket might work if you have one large enough, ... I abuse those poor things.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

jeff,

unfortunately i dont. i'm going to give it one more shot in a few days. if not, i'll have to bite the bullet and ask my mech to take care of it

bob

Is there a chance that the lower arms have been changed to the later style that don't have removable ball joints.
Your arms appear a bit different from those in the link.

Chas,

i did not know that there was such a thing. do you know what years w124s changed to non removable ball joints?

I'm not sure- '94 & '95 have a one piece lower arm.
Does the arm have a shoulder on each side of the ball joint?

Chas,

Thanks again for paying attention to my thread. I would say that my LCAs do not have shoulders around the ball joints. here's a pic (attached). not the best, but the only one i have tonight. i can take one tomorrow.

other thing: on the back side (underside) of the LCA near the ball joint, it says TRW 2409. im assuming thats the recommended ball joint for this LCA.

at this point, im gonna guess that this is a welded on deal. do you think its possible to grind off the weld and press out the old one and press in a new ball joint? or is this one of those one shot replacements?

thanks,
bob

Attached Thumbnails

 

I would not attempt to change a welded in ball joint. Certainly there are others more adventuresome than I that would. There's no guarantee the replacable ball joint is the same size and configuration as the welded joint, and I would guess they are not.

Chas,

Ok, thanks for your feedback. I'll leave it up to my indie mechanic ot decide whether or not the ball joint is still in good shape or not.

Bob

If the old one's welded in, cut it out and weld a new one in. Just keep it cool.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff