Replacing 300TD with 300SDL ... am I insane?
 

My poor 300TD is demised, so I'm in the market. I was originally thinking of buying a "pretty good" 300D, since we need another car soon (and the rented Mazda, well, the less said about that the better).

But today I drove a 1987 300SDL and boy, what a car. Seems to be in really nice shape; no rust, starts right up, no blowby, transmission shifts really nicely, finds reverse quickly. Almost everything works. I'm taking it to my mechanic on Monday for a PPI, and that will play a large factor in my decision.

It seems like I'm potentially trading more flexible cargo space for a nicer ride; an arguably more reliable engine for a smoother one; potentially buying more trouble with a greater number of gizmos. What other tradeoffs might I be making?

(If I get it, I think I'll call it "Duke," after the Duke of New York, in "Escape from New York," and maybe hang chandeliers on the front like his car :D)

Yup you are hooked:D

Of all my 126's the SDL is absolutely the best riding/traveling car. The SD is nice but noisy - the SE is a great ride if you like 14 mpg.

My SDL originated from Portland at Rasmussen's MB

Adjusting valves and changing SLS fluid for free time.

Don't forget the cooling system pressure test. Pinch the upper radiator hose when the engine has sat overnight. It shouldn't feel like there is residual pressure in the cooling system. Residual pressure could mean head cracks.

A typical PPI might not reveal the early stages of head cracks and I doubt there will be enough time for the engine to cool completely while the car is at the shop.

Having the head replaced is about $2500. It might not be a deal killer.

Sixto
87 300D

yes do check that hose when sat overnight and also it should be checked when its running. When its running at operating temp the upper hose should be soft, if its stiff AVOID IT!! The temp SHOULD NOT BE AT THE 100*C mark when its idling or driven it should be at
80*C or a click above 80*C , why these OM603 should never run at 100*C, Well these aluminum head has a possibility to crack when it's driven or idling @ 100*C for some time, do some research, do these tests and do dont make a $3000 mistake that i made...

thx

My experience.....
 

Until I recently replaced my radiator, my SDL would idle in city traffic at 100*C or so in the summer. I would turn off the AC when it went near 115*C. I've had the car since new and never let it get above 120*C. In over 20 years, I've not had any head problems. The owner's manual states that the temp will go up when going up a grade or in city traffic. Of course, YOU don't know if the car that you are looking at has been run with the temp in the red area which would be VERY bad. So, good luck. BY the way, you will love the car!

Given the sensitivity to engine temps, consider the radiator to be a replacement item. If the plastic end tank fittings haven't cracked in 5 years, they're on borrowed time.

Sixto
87 300D

I guess that I was lucky.........
 

My radiator "plastic" upper hose fitting broke at almost exactly 20 years to the day that I took delivery. This, after only MB coolant and distilled water, changed every two years. Maybe good maintance does work, OR , again, I was lucky! ;)

I think the point of whoever initiated that recommendation is that even without proper cooling system maintenance, the plastic will last at least 5 years.

Sixto
87 300D

If I had the chance to get one at a good price in excellent shape, I'd not pass it up. While *theoretically* not as reliable as a 617 powered SD, with proper maintenance, either one should be just as reliable as the other. And the SDL has advantages over the SD.

My second SDL is less than a year......
 

DITTO.

Have you bought it yet? If so, where are the pics?

LOL i tired racing with my fathers's 300SDL with my 300SD with my injection turn up to the max, and the result i lost :(...