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  #16  
Old 04-19-2008, 09:13 PM
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pictures

It looks like the seal is fouled up. I didn't remove the caliper off the car and mess with the piston, but I think I will plan to proceed with the repair kit first, then see it that will do it....

The cluprit side seal was pretty messed up with contamination, the other side of the same caliper looked better

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oil in my inner drivers side wheel ????-075.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2008, 09:15 PM
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inner outer

inner on left outer on right.

Outer was messed up....causing leak...
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oil in my inner drivers side wheel ????-071.jpg  
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  #18  
Old 04-21-2008, 08:20 AM
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any comments

Can anyone comment.


I ordered the repair kit. Do I force the compressed air in where the brake line attaches to get the piston out. Does anyone have instructions on how to do the repair kit. I am trying to educate myself so when the parts come I know what to do.

Thanks,
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  #19  
Old 04-21-2008, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spugeddy View Post
Do I force the compressed air in where the brake line attaches to get the piston out. Does anyone have instructions on how to do the repair kit. I am trying to educate myself so when the parts come I know what to do.

Thanks,
Yes, compressed air will work or you can hook up the brake line and use the pedal to push it out.

Here's an OK link: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_caliper_rebuild/911_caliper_rebuild.htm
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  #20  
Old 04-21-2008, 09:13 AM
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brake pedal

I may try the brake pedal first. Do I just remove the pads first. THen press the pedal to extend the piston. If I do it that way I can leave the caliper attached to the brake hose right, and finish the repair, and put together like I just changed the pads....

That is a pretty good DIY link by the way...
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Last edited by spugeddy; 04-21-2008 at 09:21 AM.
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  #21  
Old 04-21-2008, 01:24 PM
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You will blow the pistons right out of the calipers if you do that.

NFW can you rebuild a caliper while its on the car, you need to take them apart clean everything really well, inspect the piston and the bore, etc.

Just get a pair of rebuilds and some new hoses, they are cheap.
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  #22  
Old 04-22-2008, 08:08 AM
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too late

too late...already ordered the repair kit.

so I take the piston all the way out? It looks like the kit has three pieces. A thin rubber ring, a thicker rubber ring, and the metal retaining ring.

Do I take the piston clean out, then put the thin ring around that, then the thicker (I think is is called a dust cover toward the outside (exposed side) of the piston, then the trim ring?

I am hoping the kit has instructions.
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  #23  
Old 04-22-2008, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
You will blow the pistons right out of the calipers if you do that.

NFW can you rebuild a caliper while its on the car, you need to take them apart clean everything really well, inspect the piston and the bore, etc.

Just get a pair of rebuilds and some new hoses, they are cheap.
You don't do it with the car running and you don't stomp the pedal. You don't leave the caliper connected to the brake line during the rebuild either.

I would do it with a compressor but not everybody has one, so the brake line method is an option.

I agree with just using reman calipers, but some guys like doing everything.

Every rebuild kit I've seen has come with instructions.

Good luck spugeddy and have fun.
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"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

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1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
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1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #24  
Old 04-28-2008, 08:14 AM
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all done thanks for all the help

All done. It took me a little longer than expected, but now I know what I am doing.

The only thing hard for me was getting the second piston out without using compressed air.... the first one came out by pumping the brakes, but I took the caliper loose when one was almost fully out, and the second one was just barely out. Everything looks like it was in good condition, so with a little light sanding, brake cleaner, and shallow socket I had them back together.

The socket I used to compress the piston back in the bore... it was harder than I expected. I put the shallow socket in the center of the piston, to get my c clamp to compress it in.

I am happy I am only in it for $15 and a little of my time.

PS I bled the brakes using a jack stand propped against the brake pedal. It was a lot of back and forth, but it was a one man brake bleed system....
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

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  #25  
Old 04-28-2008, 08:29 AM
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Congratulations, I'm glad it went well.

I just got one of these and am VERY happy with it.
EUROPEAN POWER BLEEDER
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"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

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1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #26  
Old 04-28-2008, 11:50 PM
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my power bleeder cost about $3. I already had a gauge. I only use about 12 psi. works great, you do have to top off the fluid every one or two wheels, though.

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